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pbjr

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@pbjr Yes please, that would really help me out.

Specifically I'm interested in how fat the front faces of the bezel are - I've tried to draw some green lines to show what I mean. The sides, top and bottom. At the moment the sides are 9mm and the top/bottom are 19mm - how does that compare to the real thing?
Screen Shot 2022-08-04 at 8.02.51 PM.png

Overall starting to feel good - think I've found a way to split the model up and make it printable on my printer at home - Then when I've confirmed the sizing is right I might splash the cash as @Nimmers suggested and add to my next PCB order.
Screen Shot 2022-08-04 at 8.02.24 PM.pngScreen Shot 2022-08-04 at 8.01.35 PM.png

Also, if anyone knows anything about painting for 3D printed stuff now would be the time...
Here we are. looks like
top 12.75mm
bottom 13
sides 5.3
If you need feel free to ask. First time I’m using this tool. Lol.
 

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hatmoose

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Here we are. looks like
top 12.75mm
bottom 13
sides 5.3
If you need feel free to ask. First time I’m using this tool. Lol.
Awesome, thankyou. I’m going to struggle to make them that thin, injection moulded is stronger than 3D printed and the walls are already thinner than I would like…
Let me have a fiddle…
 

hatmoose

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Absolutely no progress whatsoever on the 4:3 mask recently - I need to do a whole bunch of printing and gluing and I've got a bad case of the CBF's (can't be f*cked) so taking some time out on that

The BC board (also called ISR) does fun stuff like generate test patterns, manage a lot of control functions, store the firmware and etc. There are about 50 SMD caps on this board and most of them are big 100/6.3's - I needed some practise with my new Iron so doing a full recap now. Normally there BC board does not give much trouble - but if certain functions are greyed out in the menu it's because of problems here.

IMG_2354.jpeg

I want to change that battery - but I'm scared :)
 

hatmoose

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Revision number 28 (I kid you not)

52628AB4-686A-44D7-A6A1-082E03AD0161.jpeg12897284-E99D-4B90-9A04-37F615C7B8DC.jpeg

Now to glue it together and confirm I have the dimensions correct, then some final tweaks and learning how to prime/paint PLA
 

hatmoose

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Just a rough glue-up to confirm dimensions. The finish with supports is so rotten that I might have to print it in different parts, key thing is to get the model right, then I can start on how to actually make it IRL
 

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hatmoose

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They said it could not be done; Actually they said it could be done, but no-one would be silly enough to waste the time and energy required to do it.

I said "Nothing is foolproof for a sufficiently talented fool" and this is the result.
IMG_2630.jpegIMG_2627.jpeg

The white lines are where I glued it with cheap epoxy (actually holds really well). And in the top left section I forgot to print with supports (amazed it printed at all) and it needs a MASSIVE amount of post processing for the finish before painting. But other than those minor issues it's better than I really expected.
IMG_2629.jpegIMG_2628.jpeg

Model needs a couple of changes so that if fits properly, then I need to work on the retention.
Does anyone know what these things are called? You kind of push them in to lock, then push them in again to unlock.
what is this called.jpg
 

hatmoose

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In case anyone comes afterwards and is looking for the same thing - these are all over aliexpress called "small door lock switch" or "push lock switch"

Ten for one US dollar, quite a lot more NZ dollars
Screen Shot 2022-09-27 at 4.53.30 PM.pngScreen Shot 2022-09-27 at 4.53.34 PM.png

I need both the male and female elements. Now a short wait of 30 working days...
 
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