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nem

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Tube swap definitely! I bet most 28" TV tubes would work. Philips and Videocolor are the two most common tubes in TVs here. Polo 2 is around 1.40mH horizontal I think, that's a normal TV tube yoke. Intervideo is likely the same.
 

BuddyC

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Cool! I think it’s about time I tried a tube swap. Thanks for the tips! I’ll be on the lookout.
 
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Megalocade

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3-4 weeks sounds more realistic.
The 2 player one that was basic dead was a Thompson A66-something..I forgot to write it down. Player 1 had no tube sticker, so don’t know.

Would be fun to try a tube swap! Any suggestions @nem?. Not a lot of CRT available here in Norway anymore.
What size tubes are in those namco machines...25" or 28"?

25" tube are bugger to get hold of i only have 3 in my collection, 28" are 2 a penny same with 19" but 25s are difficult at least in my country not many Tvs here with that size, most common was 20" 21" amd 28" though look out for Panasonic sets they did 25s, when the green gun blew out on my sega rally upright i bought a Panasonic 25" tv it was a straight tube swap and fitted perfectly, most of the pany tvs are CR-23 so good match for these 90s cabs
 

BuddyC

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Operator said 27”. Arcade tech said 29”.… I will take a pic of the tube next time.
I trust @nem when he says 28“ will fit. After all... @nem knows his shit! 😁
 

nem

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Don't confuse American sizes with Japanese / European.

27" American is 29" Japanese / Euro.

I have never owned Time Crisis SD cab, however, it's likely going to be 29" (A68 ). Most Japanese cabs are.

Polos are more often paired with 28" tubes (A66), but 29" is also possible.

Can't say for sure without seeing it.
 

BuddyC

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One of the tubes was a A66 tube, but I’ll snap a pic next time I’m at location.
 
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emsixteen

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I live in Stavanger and am rarely in Oslo, but if I ever head there for an offline SF tournament then I really can't wait to come see all these cabs - Looks like such sick work and an awesome collection! Really cool to see that this is treasure trove is here in this wee country. 🙏

fwiw I'm trying to import a Vewlix myself, way outta my depth. 😅
 

BuddyC

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I got this lovely SNK MV25UP-0 a couple of weeks ago, so it’s time to document what I have done since then. Always great to work on a cab I actually own 🥳

The deal was to good to be true. Cab was in excellent condition. A couple of paint chips and battle scars, but all in all very good condition.I got a clean working 6-slot, 2 beat up 1- slots, a superclean 2 slot and original marquee. Party! @alberto1225 is fixing a new panel for it, but most will be left stock.
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I found a neat little trick a year ago if you want to check a tube for burn in. Use UV light. I have a small little flashlight that shows ALL burn. No burn can hide from it!
This tube has zero fucking burn. Zero! 🥳
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Cab fired up and working (thank you Jebus!) Had some pretty loud yoke or flyback buzz, but image was stable and looking good. More on that buzz later…

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BuddyC

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Since the previous owner was scared of fixing electrical stuff, I had to start with some wiring. Somebody definitely smoked crack while wiring!
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Yeah…
It had a 220V to 100V stepdown installed in the cab, but I run all my stuff on better shit, so out it goes!
Regarding crack smoking wiring.. Check out the wiring for the 5V.
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1 single piece o’ shit flimsy cable… That went to….


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Those big and juicy red cables are the original ones… why lord Jebus, why!

Crimped some proper cables and removed all the shit cabling.
PSU 5V went from 4,81 V to 5,07 just by improving the wiring. Good stuff!
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BuddyC

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Not a lot of body work needed, but CP had never been removed, so probably pretty nasty.
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Yup. Nasty..

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10 minutes of scrubbing with my trusty cooking top cleaner made it look sexy again


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Panel had some rust, dirt and grime, but got most of it out with sandpaper etc etc. Good enough until new panel is ready .


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BuddyC

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Next up was the monitor. Image was sharp, but colors where a little dull. Has some pretty loud yoke or flyback buzz, so it was best to just remove the tube from the cab so I could work on it properly.

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This cab has a Toshiba A59JMZ90X tube
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with a Toei TC-HV25LMK chassis. A first for me.

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I have read that a Nanao MS9 could be a suitable replacement chassis when this one keels over, so I measured the yoke for own reference.

Horizontal
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Vertical
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I always hook my trusty B & K precision 467 Up to check the tube and give it a proper massage in case it needs some love.

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Not the best results, but let’s se what happens when we give it som tender clean and balance.

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Looking good! Happy tube!
 

BuddyC

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Anode cup was crazy dirty on both the inside and the outside. All black with dust and grime. So I gave it a good clean. It was actually a light gray in color.
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And put some fresh dielectric grease around the hole…. Happy hole 😀


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The rest of the chassis was surprisingly clean. No leaking caps And no cracked solder joints So I was time to fire this bad boy up!

Guess what does not buzz anymore…. Hmmm…
Did cleaning the anode cup stop the buzz? Who knows, but I am happy!

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Needs degaussing and calibration. Let’s go to work!

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Pretty good starting point. Had some pincushion issues, but that got fixed with some carful adjustments on this pot.. Impossible to reach if I hadn’t pulled the monitor AND completely removed the chassis… Not the best design..

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After adjusting the flyback, messing with all the pots, colors looked excellent.
Good shit!

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BuddyC

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Pretty happy with convergence and focus. Yes… I use a magnifying glass to make sure convergence is as good as possible. Hardcore OCD, but always produces good results!
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Great RGB alignment!

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Damn happy with the results! CRT porn coming up. Enjoy!

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