Yakkers
Beginner
Heyo, I initially posted this over at KLOV but in hindsight realized the folks over there are probably less familiar with these obscure Japanese chassis so I figured I'd try again over here. Thanks in advance if anyone has experience with this weird monitor!
I have a Toei-TC-A292 monitor in my Namco Exceleena II, and I'm having a few issues with it. This seems to be a pretty uncommon chassis and one that tends to give people headaches, so I unfortunately haven't been able to find much info on it.
First of all, once the tube has been running for maybe 30 minutes or so the brightness and focus will start to kind of flutter around. Here's a video, you can see it extra clearly when the game fades to black:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nx83TP8z2IY
This issue actually only started after the first time I played with the voltage and focus pots on the flyback so I'm hoping it's just an issue of a pot being dirty, and I was able to temporarily fix it by fiddling with the pots once it was warmed up but after a few days the issue came back. Is it possible this is just a dirty pot? If so, can I use typical contact cleaner on the flyback's pots? If this is a sign of a dying flyback, the closest replacement part I've been able to find is this, it doesn't list my exact chassis but visually it's a perfect match. Unfortunately the label on my flyback is too faded to make out any part number or anything. I commissioned a friend to fully recap it when I bought the cab about 6 years ago and it's only had light personal use since then, so it's probably unlikely that it's a capacitor issue.
Secondly, I've never been able to get the convergence down on this monitor. Primarily, red seems to be bigger in the vertical axis than the other colors so no matter how I tune it red will be bleeding above up top and below down bottom. I've recently learned about reseating the entire yoke to take care of dynamic convergence, but with the red being too "big" in both directions I'm not sure that would fix it. I do plan to do this either way at some point, but it's got silicone locking it down so I'll have to discharge it and dig it off. On other monitors I've seen there are pots for things like vertical/horizontal scale per color, but I can't find anything here. It's not the exact same model number but this seems to be the same PCB set:
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Toei-TC-A252S-Top.jpg
Another possible issue, the convergence rings seem to be pretty unusual on this thing - going from the tube backwards it seems to be R/B, RB/G in the middle, and purity at the back with the purity rings affecting geometry more than I think I normally see them. I've found I can get the convergence a little better by playing around with the purity rings within the range of the colors still being okay and then tuning the other two ring sets, I'm not sure if that's normal. Is it possible the rings were put back together incorrectly by a previous owner or something? I don't think I've ever seen convergence rings in this order before, but I also am not sure what to try and there's so little info online about this chassis. I attached a pic of the yoke in case anything stands out.
Thanks in advance for any help! One downside of the Exceleena II is its rotation mech means you can't open up the back and fiddle with the monitor like most candies so I'm only able to work on the thing when I can drag a friend over to help me lift the tube out. I'm looking to get a big list of things I can try so next time we work on it I can hopefully get it up to snuff.
I have a Toei-TC-A292 monitor in my Namco Exceleena II, and I'm having a few issues with it. This seems to be a pretty uncommon chassis and one that tends to give people headaches, so I unfortunately haven't been able to find much info on it.
First of all, once the tube has been running for maybe 30 minutes or so the brightness and focus will start to kind of flutter around. Here's a video, you can see it extra clearly when the game fades to black:
This issue actually only started after the first time I played with the voltage and focus pots on the flyback so I'm hoping it's just an issue of a pot being dirty, and I was able to temporarily fix it by fiddling with the pots once it was warmed up but after a few days the issue came back. Is it possible this is just a dirty pot? If so, can I use typical contact cleaner on the flyback's pots? If this is a sign of a dying flyback, the closest replacement part I've been able to find is this, it doesn't list my exact chassis but visually it's a perfect match. Unfortunately the label on my flyback is too faded to make out any part number or anything. I commissioned a friend to fully recap it when I bought the cab about 6 years ago and it's only had light personal use since then, so it's probably unlikely that it's a capacitor issue.
Secondly, I've never been able to get the convergence down on this monitor. Primarily, red seems to be bigger in the vertical axis than the other colors so no matter how I tune it red will be bleeding above up top and below down bottom. I've recently learned about reseating the entire yoke to take care of dynamic convergence, but with the red being too "big" in both directions I'm not sure that would fix it. I do plan to do this either way at some point, but it's got silicone locking it down so I'll have to discharge it and dig it off. On other monitors I've seen there are pots for things like vertical/horizontal scale per color, but I can't find anything here. It's not the exact same model number but this seems to be the same PCB set:
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Toei-TC-A252S-Top.jpg
Another possible issue, the convergence rings seem to be pretty unusual on this thing - going from the tube backwards it seems to be R/B, RB/G in the middle, and purity at the back with the purity rings affecting geometry more than I think I normally see them. I've found I can get the convergence a little better by playing around with the purity rings within the range of the colors still being okay and then tuning the other two ring sets, I'm not sure if that's normal. Is it possible the rings were put back together incorrectly by a previous owner or something? I don't think I've ever seen convergence rings in this order before, but I also am not sure what to try and there's so little info online about this chassis. I attached a pic of the yoke in case anything stands out.
Thanks in advance for any help! One downside of the Exceleena II is its rotation mech means you can't open up the back and fiddle with the monitor like most candies so I'm only able to work on the thing when I can drag a friend over to help me lift the tube out. I'm looking to get a big list of things I can try so next time we work on it I can hopefully get it up to snuff.
