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Kavas

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Have a Wells Gardner u2000 chassis n monitor giving me problems. First it was the vertical collapse. I recapped if, did both the vertical section and power section upgrades per the original vendors recommendations. Replaced the vertical ic, few other things. Nothing. For lack of time further I sent it off to sharp Image repair. They came recommended. I recently got it back. They told me they replaced some pots, transistors, and that I should gently adjust the hold pots on remote board to lock it in.

20210910_165621.jpg

20210909_221843.jpg

I can get it to "lock" but this shit is still here. The guy at sharp just said to play with the hold pots. Hours later it's still the same. Power checks out but can't get a clean image.

20210910_165525.jpg

20210910_165542.jpg

It's still under their 60 warranty but i'd rather not go after that route just yet. I'll give it a couple days of troubleshooting.

so anyone got any ideas?? :)
 

Hammy

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I don't know the U2000 but pretty sure the correct sync pin is not in use?
The WG's i have use the sync on pin 1 but try and find a manual for your model to confirm.
 

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Apocalypse

For lack of time further I sent it off to sharp Image repair. They came recommended.
It seems YMMV. I've been sent "unrepairable" chassis according to them that I promptly fixed so sometimes I'm a bit doubtful they take the needed time to do proper troubleshooting.
Can they provide a picture of your chassis displaying a stable image?
It's also possible it worked with their tube.
 

twistedsymphony

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U2000 is such a piece of junk, IMO the worst chassis WG ever made.

are you able to get the sync close? it looks like it's WAY off in the pictures, I'd almost recommend going a full sweep to see if it's out of range of the pot.

for future reference for WG chassis I'd recommend someone like ArcadeBuffet or ArcadeCup, they're well versed in chassis from USA cabs. I'd only recommend Sharp Image for Nanao and chases common on Japanese cabs.
 
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stj

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thats the horizontal thats not locked.
did it ever work with that wiring / game?
did you try another game?

i have a faulty gameboard that does that!!
 

Kavas

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It seems YMMV. I've been sent "unrepairable" chassis according to them that I promptly fixed so sometimes I'm a bit doubtful they take the needed time to do proper troubleshooting.
Can they provide a picture of your chassis displaying a stable image?
It's also possible it worked with their tube.
They claim they can provide a video of it working. This is the original tube that it came paired with from a die hard cabinet.
 

Kavas

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I don't know the U2000 but pretty sure the correct sync pin is not in use?
The WG's i have use the sync on pin 1 but try and find a manual for your model to confirm.
The connector is only 6 pins and started at red, how would I even connect it any other way?
 

Kavas

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U2000 is such a piece of junk, IMO the worst chassis WG ever made.

are you able to get the sync close? it looks like it's WAY off in the pictures, I'd almost recommend going a full sweep to see if it's out of range of the pot.

for future reference for WG chassis I'd recommend someone like ArcadeBuffet or ArcadeCup, they're well versed in chassis from USA cabs. I'd only recommend Sharp Image for Nanao and chases common on Japanese cabs.
I should have listened to you and just bought a working chassis online but I'm stubborn and wanted to save another chassis from the land fill. I figured with the mods it would be better.

It locks. But it has those guys gaps in the picture I've never seen anything like it. When I turn the hold pots all the way you start to hear some squeeling.
 

Kavas

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thats the horizontal thats not locked.
did it ever work with that wiring / game?
did you try another game?

i have a faulty gameboard that does that!!
I've tried two games. I'll try one more but these are known to work. I thought it would be horizontal too but it won't clear up.
 

Kavas

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To give you an idea of what it was doing:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ct7doRgSiqc


So per some recommendations I've:

  • Tried different games.
  • Try sync pin 10 instead of 6 (even though they are linked together) on the rgbs connector.
  • Reflow RGBS connector.
  • Reflow vertical ic.
Nothing. In fact I am back where I started. After reflow part I now once again have vertical collapse. I tested voltages and was getting good specs prior to dissasembly again. What I don't understand is why vertical test point was getting 29.3 vdc instead of around 25vdc like the vertical power mod should have done. Did they undue my work? Did they even read my notes? They claimed one of my capacitors was the wrong value. So they put back in the big red cap you see in the images above. An original, 35+ year old capacitor. ??????

It's under warranty. But at this point if I am being charged to ship it back, I am losing more money. :(
 

twistedsymphony

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does the image change when you adjust the v-hold pot?

I've had lots of problems with the adjustment pots on these old WG monitors going bad. and sometimes the replacements don't have quite the same range and I have to adjust the value of the offset resistor to compensate on the replacement.
 

Kavas

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does the image change when you adjust the v-hold pot?

I've had lots of problems with the adjustment pots on these old WG monitors going bad. and sometimes the replacements don't have quite the same range and I have to adjust the value of the offset resistor to compensate on the replacement.
Both the hold pots changed quite a bit, so much so that too far to one side I could hear squeeling from the chassis (HOT?).
 

stj

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i cant find a schematic yet, but what i did see hints at 3 sync inputs!
H, V and Composite.
you need to use composite, not H&V - because they are probably inverted.
 

twistedsymphony

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FWIW I have a U2000 in my KI2 cabinet (it's the factory monitor for this game).
Digging through some photos I found one with the factory video in connector. it's not the best but you can see which sync pin is being used for JAMMA
IMAG0125.jpg


Also a very common "upgrade" on these is to beef up the traces on the neck board since they have a tendency to overheat and de-laminate from the PCB:
IMAG0228.jpg
 
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