mathewbeall
Champion
Hi Folks,
@electric_monk is still finalizing some items before his new ODE goes on sale - so be a bit more patient with him! As a few folks are still beta testing it, I thought I would get this information out there for everyone to consume, and warm up their 3d printers if they are upgrading from the old ODE to the new one.
Attached is a diagram of how the new one needs to be hooked up (a bit simpler than the last one) - this is assuming you are using the 3d printed file with front mounted USB passthrough ports, if you are going to internalize everything - its even simpler.
Attached are two zip files for the 3dprinted parts - one is STL, and one is a 3MF file (Bambu). You don't HAVE to change the front faceplate if you are upgrading, but there is a new faceplate here that has some holes to glue in some LED's off the main board. I used these LED's - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D25GK3S6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 , and a (sixty eight) ohm resister for the green LED, and a 150 ohm resistor for the red LED.
For the ODE mount - I used these M3 heat press fittings, makes it super easy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077CJV3Z9?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1 . I use a soldering iron to just gently push them into the posts and then screw a small M3 screw in. If you don't want to use the heat press fittings - I suspect you can just thread a M4 in there (someone can likely verify this).
For this new Rpi image - it is much more complete set, and has support for HDD images. To prepare the files to move onto the USB stick, you will need a 256GB thumbdrive to hold everything. You are going to want to go to archive.org and look for the "Namco System 2X6" set - this was uploaded by @defor a while back and is very complete. You will want to grab all of those files and put them into a directory, and then grab this powershell script: https://mega.nz/file/Z6wRFLjb#jXiLD01OBoioomHjl-Sze8eL05o31RaAb1WlxN0h3PY . put this script in the base directory, and then run it.
Example:
Open up a powershell as administrator and run the ./convert.ps1 command (feel free to look at the script ahead of time if you like). It is going to uncompress all the files, rename most of them, and trim down the HDD images to remove the blank space. As it's doing all of this - it will move the files into a new directory it will created called "USB Drive" and delete as it goes (to save on actual space needed). This process will take a while (a little over an hour on my 12th gen intel and SSD system) - and when it's all done, it will compare the SHA5 hashes against known good. It is possible that you will have some errors on 9 of the CD rom images if @defor hasn't updated his archive yet. If that is the case - grab the fixed images CD here - https://mega.nz/file/l34RlRzD#HOAO7ZVK8gMHMpLqYVVWKpYe0P3mpzvUvyr7S8Y61XU . Copy these into the USB Drive directory and overwrite what is there.
Once that is all complete, copy all of these files to the base directory of your USB thumbdrive.
Here are the Rpi images that work with this new ODE/ image set.
246 image - https://mega.nz/file/cmhk2AzC#XBBMTBOQ8Ma4zZ0IqXAn2cbd6xuDPVhGg4fRE_M4448
256 image - https://mega.nz/file/wzYyWYYC#GDZdSiWxiXV0_cgTF3I-UphUjt2CswuqruUdaNrw0fc
The *only* difference between these images is that one has "246" selected as the game system in the menu, and the other has "256" seleccted. You will need a 32GB microsd card to write this image.
I think those are the complete instructions! As always - post questions here. Thanks to @electric_monk for a great update to the ODE (v3) that now supports HDD images, and I especially love the LED breakouts so that you have a visual indication that something is happening with the drive!
Thanks to @twistedsymphony who built the new mappings and romsinfo file to map all the new .iso/.hdd images over to the correct dongles and performed testing to get the ball rolling on all of this!
Thanks to @BladeZX for the work on the multi and the initial Rpi image!
@electric_monk is still finalizing some items before his new ODE goes on sale - so be a bit more patient with him! As a few folks are still beta testing it, I thought I would get this information out there for everyone to consume, and warm up their 3d printers if they are upgrading from the old ODE to the new one.
Attached is a diagram of how the new one needs to be hooked up (a bit simpler than the last one) - this is assuming you are using the 3d printed file with front mounted USB passthrough ports, if you are going to internalize everything - its even simpler.
Attached are two zip files for the 3dprinted parts - one is STL, and one is a 3MF file (Bambu). You don't HAVE to change the front faceplate if you are upgrading, but there is a new faceplate here that has some holes to glue in some LED's off the main board. I used these LED's - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D25GK3S6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 , and a (sixty eight) ohm resister for the green LED, and a 150 ohm resistor for the red LED.
For the ODE mount - I used these M3 heat press fittings, makes it super easy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077CJV3Z9?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1 . I use a soldering iron to just gently push them into the posts and then screw a small M3 screw in. If you don't want to use the heat press fittings - I suspect you can just thread a M4 in there (someone can likely verify this).
For this new Rpi image - it is much more complete set, and has support for HDD images. To prepare the files to move onto the USB stick, you will need a 256GB thumbdrive to hold everything. You are going to want to go to archive.org and look for the "Namco System 2X6" set - this was uploaded by @defor a while back and is very complete. You will want to grab all of those files and put them into a directory, and then grab this powershell script: https://mega.nz/file/Z6wRFLjb#jXiLD01OBoioomHjl-Sze8eL05o31RaAb1WlxN0h3PY . put this script in the base directory, and then run it.
Example:
Open up a powershell as administrator and run the ./convert.ps1 command (feel free to look at the script ahead of time if you like). It is going to uncompress all the files, rename most of them, and trim down the HDD images to remove the blank space. As it's doing all of this - it will move the files into a new directory it will created called "USB Drive" and delete as it goes (to save on actual space needed). This process will take a while (a little over an hour on my 12th gen intel and SSD system) - and when it's all done, it will compare the SHA5 hashes against known good. It is possible that you will have some errors on 9 of the CD rom images if @defor hasn't updated his archive yet. If that is the case - grab the fixed images CD here - https://mega.nz/file/l34RlRzD#HOAO7ZVK8gMHMpLqYVVWKpYe0P3mpzvUvyr7S8Y61XU . Copy these into the USB Drive directory and overwrite what is there.
Once that is all complete, copy all of these files to the base directory of your USB thumbdrive.
Here are the Rpi images that work with this new ODE/ image set.
246 image - https://mega.nz/file/cmhk2AzC#XBBMTBOQ8Ma4zZ0IqXAn2cbd6xuDPVhGg4fRE_M4448
256 image - https://mega.nz/file/wzYyWYYC#GDZdSiWxiXV0_cgTF3I-UphUjt2CswuqruUdaNrw0fc
The *only* difference between these images is that one has "246" selected as the game system in the menu, and the other has "256" seleccted. You will need a 32GB microsd card to write this image.
I think those are the complete instructions! As always - post questions here. Thanks to @electric_monk for a great update to the ODE (v3) that now supports HDD images, and I especially love the LED breakouts so that you have a visual indication that something is happening with the drive!
Thanks to @twistedsymphony who built the new mappings and romsinfo file to map all the new .iso/.hdd images over to the correct dongles and performed testing to get the ball rolling on all of this!
Thanks to @BladeZX for the work on the multi and the initial Rpi image!
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