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I wonder how well it would work if I dyed whole sheets BEFORE vacuum forming
I wonder how deep the dye penetrates, but probably it's just a surface dye. I would think you run the risk of everywhere the plastic stretches getting more translucent the more it is stretched vs applying the dye to the already stretched surface. Basically you'd be increasing the surface area post dye, so you'd be diluting it.
 
I wonder how deep the dye penetrates, but probably it's just a surface dye
Actually there were some tests performed in that thread and they found full penetration of the color after cutting the piece, they were even able to buff and flame polish the parts with the color remaining in-tact as if it were manufactured as a colored piece of plastic.

it's based on this that I began musing about dying before vacuum forming.

the benefit here is I would be able to have a low, shallow bath could work for anything that would go in my machine. also the temp for the dye to hold is right around the deformation temp for the material, so if it's died first any warping from the dye process would be removed once it went through vacuum forming. as opposed to risking warping already formed/cut parts.

IMO it's worth testing either way.
 
glad to see this is getting worked on still! if it comes down to it I would still purchase a replacement panel set that was he incorrect color just to keep the machine going to events (once they are safe to be held)
 
Wow that thing is huge, looks like one of those hot lamp food counter things. You guys sure have tools and toys to play with.

What is that bar/table?? in dark blue in the background? Is it like jukebox?
 
Wow that thing is huge, looks like one of those hot lamp food counter things. You guys sure have tools and toys to play with.

What is that bar/table?? in dark blue in the background? Is it like jukebox?
Its an actual arcade machine Sega Flash Beats

https://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=17932

I would say its pretty rare. Would be cool to see a modern version of it though, maybe using neopixels, etc...

 
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I've mused in various threads about using this machine for other projects such as reproducing the official Capcom CPS1 cases, Shock Boxes for PGM carts, and Pinball Ramps and other stuff.

Wow, I literally had the same thought a few days ago. Besides what you mentioned I was also thinking about the plastic bezels used around monitors. There’s definitely a demand; a couple of years ago I picked up a stack from a local OP and people we desperate to get them. I don’t have a lot to contribute in terms of your process, but I know there’s a lot of people in the star wars cosplay community that use vacuum forming to make stormtrooper armor. You might want to seek about some of their forums/info.
 
Wow, I literally had the same thought a few days ago. Besides what you mentioned I was also thinking about the plastic bezels used around monitors. There’s definitely a demand; a couple of years ago I picked up a stack from a local OP and people we desperate to get them. I don’t have a lot to contribute in terms of your process, but I know there’s a lot of people in the star wars cosplay community that use vacuum forming to make stormtrooper armor. You might want to seek about some of their forums/info.
RE: Bezels- there's a few that I've paid around 1-200 for. I'd happily hire for some good reproductions of some of the harder to find stuff. I know i'm not alone!
 
Bezels are tricky. I brought this up in another thread about using random donation monitors for a repro project, and anything where the bezel actually frames the bare monitor (unlike the Cute where you can float it in space behind the smoked plexi) means matching up a bezel to a lot of different monitor curves depending on the donor tube. Not the easiest thing to tackle for the average person.
 
Bezels are tricky. I brought this up in another thread about using random donation monitors for a repro project, and anything where the bezel actually frames the bare monitor (unlike the Cute where you can float it in space behind the smoked plexi) means matching up a bezel to a lot of different monitor curves depending on the donor tube. Not the easiest thing to tackle for the average person.
I need things like pony and pony table bezels copied. Swing, aero (if applicable) etc.
 
@twistedsymphony Tecmo Urban top piece.

ZHJH2A.jpg



The rest is wood afaik so one could repro the whole cab if that piece could be fabricated.

There are definite fans of that idea ;)

https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/tecmo-urban.15721/page-2
 
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