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Hi fella.

I can see you created a 3d printing model of the sub panel and I would like to know the dimensions of it and the exact position of the mounting holes please.

Apologies for the late reply, I wanted to remeasure a few things before I committed to uploading dimensions but I've just finished doing that now, here you go:

i-73Jg8Xw-XL.jpg


The dimensions of these panels really bug me. I've been measuring Japanese cab parts for years and typically the dimensions are always a nice round number but the dimensions for these are all over the place. I've measured the pitch of the holes in the CP by printing plugs that are an exact fit in the holes and then using 150mm and 300mm Vernier calipers to measure the dimensions before subtracting one plug width. I've also measured the pitch of the inserts in the ABS sub panels by inserting M4 bolts into the holes, measuring across them and subtracting one bolt width. I get some differing results so I've measured a lot of different dimensions and then taken an average of them to get the results above. It's not too critical to get the dimensions bang on as the panels fit on with M4 bolts and there are 5mm holes in the CP upper so there is a fair bit of wiggle room but the dimensions do need to be somewhere near. If you work to the above you should be ok. If anyone else has measured these before I would be interested to see what you got.

My doubt is the audio wiring (even because I never seen properly the Vewlix wiring): how to connect the original amp to the PC > and from there get the additional volume controller and 1/4 jack for the headphones. Could you tell me please about the wiring and the components to buy? Thanks

The original amp takes line level stereo via a standard 3.5mm jack so you can connect a PC directly with a 3.5mm>3.5mm cable if you wish. If your cab has an 'PC' monitor in with a 3.5mm headphone out then you can use that to connect to the Taito amp. That way, the audio from whatever source is playing on your display will come out of your speakers and you don't need to swap audio cables around.

If you're using the original monitor you might end up using a 'HDMI' audio extractor or similar. If you do, I will have a couple for sale soon as they're no longer needed since upgrading my monitors and I'm now using the 3.5mm out from there.

I have also seen mentioned this product as remote volume controller but I didn’t really get how to wire it…
61ckSvmeQxL._AC_SL1500_.jpg


The item you have above is a line level remote control. You can plug that in between your PC and Taito amp (or 'PC' monitor and Taito) amp to control the line level signal before it is amplified.

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Update whilst I'm here..... 2022 and 2023 have been and gone and 2024 is looking to go the same way....! :whistling:

These panels are currently a personal project so I've been doing work on and off with them whilst I decide what I want and need to install in them. I've actually just been setting up two PCs, two RGH 360s and two Switches up for use in the Dia Blues recently so I'm getting a clearer idea of what controls I do need.

@Arthrimus has just dropped his [Vewlix Console I/O V4] which looks fantastic. I was going to use some separate autofire PCBs and control them from the sub panels but I wont need to with the Console I/Os. I'm also keen to try out some of the Home/Select/Touchpad/L3/R3 button 'hoykey combos' but I think I'll want physical buttons for at least some of these. I'm shortly going to order a couple of the I/Os to try out and hopefully nail down what buttons I want on the sub panels.

I'm still planning on having a headphone jack that cuts the cab audio and having both headphone and cab audio controlled by the volume knob. I was using the 1/4" DPDT jack previously as I couldn't find any suitable 3.5mm ones. I've since found some 3.5mm ones. They're not panel (screw) mount but I have a plan in place for that.

I have actually been playing on the cabs since getting things set up recently so it would be nice to get these sorted for good.... maybe 2025 is the year.... don't hold your breath though :D
 

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I was looking around for these dimensions yesterday. Thanks! I assume if you have one of the sub panels, the other is the same height.

Debating on making a small panel from wood and trying to coat it to match the larger panel or ordering multiples from Taito. They just quoted me around $120 to ship six of them.



Apologies for the late reply, I wanted to remeasure a few things before I committed to uploading dimensions but I've just finished doing that now, here you go:

i-9vfsPvG-X2.jpg
 
@FrancoB Thanks for your reply! and for all the precious info! I have also seen your Vewlix on the UKvac forum and they look great!

I thought from this picture that you sorted the headphone jack issue. I saw other guys online having the 3.5mm jack socket integrated into the USB port extension, but I would prefer to have a separate port for it. In both cases, I don't know how the wiring works (?)
The PC case that I am going to use has another 3.5mm jack at the front, perhaps I could extend that (?) I am sure that if I plug an extension socket there it will cut the speakers (it would be worth trying)
i-PvPtnzs-XL.jpg


I think will stay low for the moment and buy later on a subpanel already done with the layout for six buttons and the volume control, but in the meantime, I will design a panel which will host a 3.5mm headphone jack (I don't know if it is already in the market).
My ideal subpanel would be one like the original where I could drill the holes that I need but I didn't see any replica online (and I won't drill the original).

Sorry, I didn't get what you meant about the difference between an "original" or "PC" monitor. It is a Vewlix F and the seller told me that comes with the original monitor and wiring. I got some screenshots of a video that he sent me, it looks like it is a 3.5mm jack hooked to a Taito amp and a DVI (or VGA) cable for the monitor... what do you think about it?
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Assuming to use the line-level remote control mentioned above, I could connect the jack that comes from the amp to the IN (by using a RCA adapter) and with another cable connect the OUT to the speaker output of the PC and the game is done. Does it make sense? Thanks
 

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No problem, glad they're of use to you.

Yeah the panel height/thickness is the same for both panels ~13mm.
I can measure this but any chance you know the angle of the bevel? As a hobby carpenter I'm seriously giving consideration to combining the two sub panels into a singular wood block and surface treating it to making my own custom panel. I would need to order the appropriate chamfer bit and get up to speed on engraving or find the perfect decals. Obviously I'm not going for a stock look but I'm trying my very best to customize it to my liking while also maintaining the spirit of the design.
 
I thought from this picture that you sorted the headphone jack issue. I saw other guys online having the 3.5mm jack socket integrated into the USB port extension, but I would prefer to have a separate port for it. but in both cases, I don't know how the wiring works (?)
The PC case that I am going to use has another 3.5mm jack at the front, perhaps I could extend that (?) I am sure that if I plug an extension socket that will cut the speakers (it would be worth trying)
i-PvPtnzs-XL.jpg

Yeah it worked but it looks a bit like a dogs dinner and I don't really want to use a 1/4" socket. I've found some nice DPDT 3.5mm sockets now for switching the stereo and I've been playing with them recently but I'm getting some interference from somewhere which I think may be coming from using the cheap headphone amps that are powered from the cabs 12v. I'm going to try an isolated amplifier with it's own PSU to see if that solves the problems. If that all works I'm going to make some PCBs for both the 3.5mm DPDT socket and the volume control so everything can be connected neatly and securely.

I'm not sure if your PC setup works like that but inserting a headphone jack into my PC doesn't cut the speaker output, I have to change the output device in the sound settings in the task bar, I'm not sure if it can be set to auto switch. Personally that wouldn't work for me as I want to switch the audio of whatever game source is being used at the time, not just PC.

Sorry, I didn't get what you meant about the difference between an "original" or "PC" monitor. It is a Vewlix F and the seller told me that comes with the original monitor and wiring. I got some screenshots of a video that he sent me, it looks like it is a 3.5mm jack hooked to a Taito amp and a DVI (or VGA) cable for the monitor... what do you think about it?

The stock monitors in many of the older Vewlix models are not the best by todays standards, depending on the Vewlix you have you could be looking at LCD technology that's 18 years old. The good thing about the older monitors is that they will natively display the games they were designed to play. If you're looking to play more modern games then the old 768p displays don't really cut it. Depends what you want to play. Many people 'upgrade' their monitors to use a modern 32" 1080p/1440p/4k gaming monitor.


Assuming to use the line-level remote control mentioned above, I could connect the jack that comes from the amp to the IN (by using a RCA adapter) and with another cable connect the OUT to the speaker output of the PC and the game is done. Does it make sense? Thanks

Yes, to use that adapter above you would want two 3.5mm>L/R RCA cables and connect as you mentioned. That won't cut the audio but it will give you control over whatever line level source you're feeding the Taito amp.

I can measure this but any chance you know the angle of the bevel? As a hobby carpenter I'm seriously giving consideration to combining the two sub panels into a singular wood block and surface treating it to making my own custom panel. I would need to order the appropriate chamfer bit and get up to speed on engraving or find the perfect decals. Obviously I'm not going for a stock look but I'm trying my very best to customize it to my liking while also maintaining the spirit of the design.

You just gave me an excuse to open a digital angle finder I've not had chance to use yet :thumbsup: I'm getting 48 degrees on the chamfer that's on the two shorter sides and ~44 degrees on the longer sides. If making you of would you could set your table saw to those angles or if using a router I think you could get away with a 45 degree pattern bit..... or you could make an adjustable jig :D
 
oh yea- I'm going table saw. I thought from the pictures that the angle was much more severe. We'll see where this goes!
 
The stock monitors in many of the older Vewlix models are not the best by todays standards, depending on the Vewlix you have you could be looking at LCD technology that's 18 years old. The good thing about the older monitors is that they will natively display the games they were designed to play. If you're looking to play more modern games then the old 768p displays don't really cut it. Depends what you want to play. Many people 'upgrade' their monitors to use a modern 32" 1080p/1440p/4k gaming monitor.
Yep, I am aware about that… as I said before, I will stay easy for the first period and enjoy the original cab with some ttx and fighting games on Steam.. I will replace it in the future . If you have any compatible models to suggest, I will add in my wish list ;)

Ok, let us know when you figure out how to add properly an headphone jack, thanks!
 
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