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notsonic

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I have a Wei-Ya 3129 tri sync chassis that was on an MS9 tube in my Cyber Lead for a long time. I just put the original MS9 chassis back in that cabinet and moved the Wei-Ya to my Ok Baby cabinet with an MS9 tube that the MS9 chassis from the Cyber Lead had been living in.

I'm basically rewiring the entire Ok Baby cabinet and was testing the chassis out. I turned it on and it looked fine, other than having the horizontal yoke connections backwards. After maybe 2 or 3 minutes, it tore apart horizontally and then started clicking. Now all it does is click every few seconds, no picture.

The chassis is not on an isolation transformer, but it wasn't in the Cyber Lead either (I don't think). I have the chassis, monitor, monitor frame, etc. all grounded.

Did I do something wrong or is this just a coincidence?
 

Battlesmurf

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Super common with these guys. I've had them die fresh off the pallet. Out of a few dozen, I'd get one brand new one every now and again that would do it. Depended on the source I was feeding it. On the plus side, the chassis were usually pretty easy to get fixed.
 

PascalP

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I think out of the 3 we had 2 had issues?
Your NOS was DOA, my NOS was DOA as well and we got fixed with some diodes and the 3rd one was the used one from the Atomiswave SD/Egret 3 cab? That one took half an hour or so to warm up and be stable or what was it? :P
 

Sp33dFr34k

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I think out of the 3 we had 2 had issues?
Your NOS was DOA, my NOS was DOA as well and we got fixed with some diodes and the 3rd one was the used one from the Atomiswave SD/Egret 3 cab? That one took half an hour or so to warm up and be stable or what was it? :P
Yeah, you had one with a diode issue, mine had a defective vertical IC. After fixing mine it worked for a little while before it did the same as TS has now. And yeah, the used AWSD one from Jan took a while to warm up properly, and got more issues afterwards. Ugh...
 

Hedonism Bot 2.0

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There's not much QC with these chassis. They're either really solid or really not. I don't like working on them anymore but they are at least serviceable.

My experience in fixing them has been:

Really poor/cheap solder from the factory.

Shit/defective caps from the factory.

The auto switch circuit is a big point of failure.

If you really want to get the most out of these chassis, cap and reflow everything while it's still working. Mine doesn't get too warm but most can benefit from a cooling fan. Be warned, these have a LOT of caps and the pads aren't the best.
 

notsonic

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I've had this chassis for a while (like 2008 or older), in use sporadically. I just found an old post of mine from 2009 describing the same problem, so I must've gotten it repaired in the past which I don't remember. Whatever broke last time must've broken again. At least that makes me feel better than assuming this thing has been rock solid for 10+ years.
 

Hedonism Bot 2.0

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I've had this chassis for a while (like 2008 or older), in use sporadically. I just found an old post of mine from 2009 describing the same problem, so I must've gotten it repaired in the past which I don't remember. Whatever broke last time must've broken again. At least that makes me feel better than assuming this thing has been rock solid for 10+ years.
There are guides on bullet proofing them, but the biggest hurdle is that recap. Some of the worse ones dont have proper solder and the caps are glued in.
 

rewrite

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Now all it does is click every few seconds, no picture.
Take a paper towel tube, put it to your ear, and start putting it over different components so you can isolate where the clicking is coming from. You should definitely recap and reflow dodgy looking solder as well, but if you're clicking it is /likely/ the HOT or another transistor so narrow it down and replace whatever part ends up being the clicker while you have things apart as well.
 
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