WTB CPS2 B Board for Darksoft multi.

[nassekova]

I'm looking for a CPS2 set to install Darksoft Multi on it. Would prefer setup with a working A board and "suicided" B board (cheapest combo). If you have an extra CPS2 kit with Darksoft multi already installed on it, that would work too, but I won't be paying Ebay prices (1000usd etc.).

Casing should be in OK condition. Dirt and dust won't be a deal breaker, but large cracks and holes might be.

PAL-G revision 5-7 preferred for the easy installation.

Prefer Europe so that I wouldn't have to pay extra for the customs, but if none available in here I''m willing to go global!

ONLY Europe/JP/USA B board needed anymore!

Paypal payment.

 

[djsheep]

There’s one here:

PCBs/CPS2/MVS for sale!

 

[nassekova]

Yea, but it's fully working :/ Would be a shame to destroy that X-Men vs Street Fighter if some one had a "broken" one to sell a bit cheaper!

Thanks anyway, might take that if no one comes with a better deal.

 

[xodaraP]

It's not so much of a problem these days as the boards can be revived with original keys using an Arduino or the Darksoft multi

The key writing wires on the Darksoft multi perform that exact function for all the games on the multi so they play 100% original

If you can't find one closer to you, let me know if you're interested. Happy to take photos, case is actually very clean apart from a previous owner writing on it in permanent marker. Magic eraser would probably fix that.

I also found when I tested it the fan on the A board is dead. But I believe I have a spare or I can make sure a replacement is installed.

It's actually not a bad thing since the stock fans are noisy as hell so it's a good excuse to replace it with a quieter one.

 

[KalessinDB]

Magic eraser would probably fix that.

Magic eraser is basically sanding it away. Quick tip I learned from Wiggy on The Cover Project forums -- get a "colorless blending marker" - something like https://www.amazon.com/Prismacolor-Colorless-Blender-3533-Individual/dp/B000P8HKHS or check a local art supply store. Rub that shit all over your permanent marker, then wipe it off with a paper towel. I did it on a bunch of my NES games and it fixed probably 95% of the problems.

 

[xodaraP]

Are they the scratch repair pens for cars? Interesting. Thank you for the tip.

 

[nassekova]

It's not so much of a problem these days as the boards can be revived with original keys using an Arduino or the Darksoft multi

The key writing wires on the Darksoft multi perform that exact function for all the games on the multi so they play 100% original

If you can't find one closer to you, let me know if you're interested. Happy to take photos, case is actually very clean apart from a previous owner writing on it in permanent marker. Magic eraser would probably fix that.

I also found when I tested it the fan on the A board is dead. But I believe I have a spare or I can make sure a replacement is installed.

It's actually not a bad thing since the stock fans are noisy as hell so it's a good excuse to replace it with a quieter one.

Sure thing! I think I'll wait a day or two and if nothing closer come by I let you know. I have cleaned a lot of old gaming consoles and game cartridges and have the stuff to get markers away. Only issues I had so far are those soft plastic covers on some old MSX game boxes. They seem to absorb that magic marker so that none of my usual methods work But if it's a hard plastic it should not be a problem at all. I might even paint the body anyways, so as far as there are no cracks it should be fine.

 

[KalessinDB]

Are they the scratch repair pens for cars? Interesting. Thank you for the tip.

I don't think so, these are definitely meant for artists. As I understand the chemistry, instead of ink they basically have some liquid inside them that temporarily "melts" the existing ink, so that you can blend together 2 colors better - that's why they're "Blending pens". I found, especially on textured NES carts, that you had to press down pretty firmly to let out a lot of the liquid (probably more than intended) but it worked pretty well. A handful of games there would still be a little residue deep in the cracks, and the edges of the labels would get a tiny bit ruffled (because it's liquid)... but overall much better and much less damage than a Magic Eraser.

 

[And One]

I agree, I used a magic eraser to try to remove some marker on the side of one of my arcade cabinets and it started to eat away at the art work that I was actually trying to save.

 

[nassekova]

I found myself a cheap A board (Europe) so now I only need a fitting B board for the Darksoft project. Let me know if you have one!

Same specs preferred:
- Locates in Europe
- Suicided or such (cheap)