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Oh man, I was just looking for some too. I’d rather save time and not do it myself, but I probably will if I can’t find one.
 
I've never messed with them before and would rather see one built before making my own. Hopefully someone has one laying around I can snag.
 
I've checked YAJ and can't seem to find any. Anyone have a link to one, or a Tutorial?
 
I think these might be the ones @THCsoftcore was referring to:
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/c1046823443

The YAJ seller provided a link to a one drive with pics of a bunch of other harnesses they have made.

These yoke flip switches are pretty easy to make but have some important design considerations that have kept me from making them. My main concern is preventing the switch toggle while the chassis is on and driving the deflection. You really need a switch that interlocks the chassis; either pulling power to the chassis or shutting down deflection somehow. Also, the horizontal deflection circuit can see some pretty high voltages (~1.5Kv) so you really need wire, switches and connectors rated for that kind of voltage. The YAJ listing seems to show those cheap multi pole switches that are usually rated around 300-600v, but that is just a guess. That is perfectly fine for the vertical deflection but I would want something more robust for the horizontal deflection.
 
Thanks for this!

I agree, these switches look kind of low end. I like the design of Emphatics harness, so I may just try to build something. I'd like to find a build guide so I make sure it's wired up properly.
 
Thanks for digging up. I didn't flag it and didn't have time to go find it last night.
 
I have that harness from the YAJ seller, I added connectors to it so no wire splicing was necessary. I just checked and the switches are rated 125VAC. The wire looks to be the same 18AWG stranded stuff used in most Japanese cabs for monitor connections. It's been working fine for me for years, but I'm extremely careful not to toggle when the monitor is on. I honestly never even thought about your considerations @dewmansnk but now I'm going to replace the switches with something far beefier.
 
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You really need a switch that interlocks the chassis; either pulling power to the chassis or shutting down deflection somehow.
Sorry for the double post, but this is only a concern if you toggle while the monitor is powered, correct (assuming the switches are otherwise rated for these voltages)?
 
Sorry for the double post, but this is only a concern if you toggle while the monitor is powered, correct (assuming the switches are otherwise rated for these voltages)?

Yeah as long as you are very careful to never switch it while its on, then you should be fine.

Check the wire jacket, it should have a voltage rating printed on it. The horizontal deflection (red, blue) are the only wires of real concern. The yoke is usually setup so the red wire is rated higher than the blue wire with the assumption the large voltage will be applied to the red wire, go through the deflection yoke and be a lower voltage when it leaves the blue wire back to the chassis. I suppose its the manufacturer saving cost where they can.

For example, I just checked a yoke I had handy here and the red wire is rated at (1000VAC/12000VDC) 22AWG 90C
The blue wire was rated at only 600V.

So anytime we flip the horizontal yoke connector, we are potentially driving the blue wire past its 600V rating. A proper yoke flip would involve swapping the red / blue wires at the yoke, which I have never heard of anyone doing. So this is all to say that if you could get all the wire / switches rated at 1Kv, it would be best. But failing that something rated at 600V at least gets you in the ballpark versus those cheap 125V toggles.
 
Hmm, I have a 380v rocker toggle and have flipped the yoke on my MS8-26 while powered on many times. Haven’t had any issues doing so. But, perhaps I should stop doing that. 😂
 
I have always wondered if switching it while it was on would just enable some protection circuit and shut down the deflection without an issue. Guess we have at least one example where it didn't cause total destruction of the HOT.

Inductors don't like it when you suddenly stop the flow of current through the coil, they will spike the voltage in the opposite polarity in an attempt to maintain the same current flow. That is why we need protection diodes across relay coils. So switching the yoke while deflection is one would surly cause some serious voltage swings in the deflection circuit.
 
Anyone make these any longer?

I have a few pesky boards that don't have flip screen dips.

Lemme know!
I've been doing some R&D the past few months and I will be making one soon for myself. And of course, I will be offering them to the community at some point. I like having nice stuff, so I've upped the quality of them so they have strong connections, shrink tubing, etc These will have hardware to switch back and forth on both H and V separately, but you need to shut the monitor off for safety when switching modes. They will be Plug and play: In order to not have to ruin original wiring, etc. Stay tuned!

Del
 
I've been doing some R&D the past few months and I will be making one soon for myself. And of course, I will be offering them to the community at some point. I like having nice stuff, so I've upped the quality of them so they have strong connections, shrink tubing, etc These will have hardware to switch back and forth on both H and V separately, but you need to shut the monitor off for safety when switching modes. They will be Plug and play: In order to not have to ruin original wiring, etc. Stay tuned!

Del
Def in for one!
 
Out of curiosity, for those of us without the 15/24 khz autoswitch chassis, would there be any interest in making a switch for that? Seems like such a pain in the ass to access, whatever the cab.
 
wasnt one of those guys on Ebay that sells harness's selling these for a bit? Idk what the search term for it would be outside of trying to find the seller or looking up like MS9 harness or Astro Harness or something
 
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