Spent some more time on this today...
I crimped a new Yoke connector (bought this from Arcade Buffett on KLOV)
I had to buy some M3x6mm Philips screws to mount the chassis in the cab. The chassis clips into the plastic tray then screws into it with 6 plastic screws, then the M3 screws go through the plastic tray and into threaded holes on the brackets inside the cab. Installing this is really tricky since it's kind of just hanging in place which means you have to hold the chassis in place and at the correct angle with one hand while you put the screws in with the other hand... a magnetic tipped screw driver is a must!
I also discovered, the hard way, that the yoke connector and the input connector really need to be installed BEFORE mounting the chassis in the cab the yoke connector is literally impossible to reach before installation, and the input connector is so difficult to reach I spent a good 15 minutes trying to plug it in because I didn't want to have to pull the chassis back out again (tough I probably should have).
Also a Pro-tip, install the anode cup from the front of the cab. the rotation mechanism makes it nearly impossible to reach from the back, but with the monitor bezel up you can easily reach behind the tube to install it that way. This cab even looks cool with that up.
Chassis all installed:
As tricky as it is to install the chassis it's pretty clever placement. there's no remote board but it's mounted in such a way that all the adjustments can be accessed from the front:
While I had the bezel up I noticed the right hand side of the monitor box was dented in ... not sure how I missed this before , a block of wood and a dead blow hammer straightened it right out though.
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So after all that I decided to power up the cab for the first time. For reference there are two power switches, one behind and UNDER the cab and another behind the service door in the front. When I first powered it on I heard a slight sound coming from the power supply and that's it. I assumed that somehow the monitor wasn't getting power since I didn't hear anything or see anything. I decided to check the voltages on the PSU and while I was doing that I heard what sounded like the monitor powering up and looked up just in time to see a white horizontal line (vertical collapse) before it disappeared. I went around back to see if there was any neck glow and discovered the high voltage fuse on the chassis had blown
to make matters worse the PSU was outputting 4.9V on the 5V output, 6V on the 12V output and -1.8V on the -5V output.
So my next step will be sourcing a few fuses for that HV line, fixing the PSU and trying again, and if it popps another fuse I'll be sending the chassis out for repair.