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@ZoomBoy assuming the green wire is connected to the ground prong, it looks good. It’s one of those things that is 99% true but also easy to check with a multimeter.

I don’t love that the psu doesn’t label which one accepts the live wire, but it is alternating current after all so it probably doesn’t care (some do some don’t).
 
Hey, thank for all the guidance everyone! Waiting for that fabled email from RGB so I can get my order paid up.

Cheers.
 
Is the 3D print cover for the Meanwell MWP-606 that you are selling compatible with Suzo Happ power supply?
 
Where are people sourcing the M3.5 Fork Terminals? I'm having trouble finding some to make the power cable.
 
shorjewken said:
Where are people sourcing the M3.5 Fork Terminals?
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Local hardware store has fork terminals, you don't actually NEED them however...
Twist up the wire real tight, then tin it up with flux/solder, this will keep it from fraying/separating and touching/shorting out to nearest terminal.
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You can see my PSU here, the HAS cable has the forks (this is how it came from RGB) but my AC power cord is just twisted/tin'd.
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megaMANX6 said:
Is the 3D print cover for the Meanwell MWP-606 that you are selling compatible with Suzo Happ power supply?
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No it’s not, but I just cut the bottom off and squeezed it on. Works fine, but def needs to be cut to fit.
 
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rtw said:
Please do not tin wires that are going into screw terminals.
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Ok I won't recommend it to people, but honestly I've checked the screw terminals, they haven't loosed up at all.
I do understand and agree that it cracks the solder coat to compress the screw...
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But I do not agree that thru thermal expansion they loosen up... Because that's simply not what I've experienced (all three are as tight as the day I first screwed them down).
 
Chacranajxy said:
xtrasmiley said:
RGB said:
Chacranajxy said:
I think the HAS 3.1 is just using the default settings, other than the controller mappings that I set. It's outputting via SCART to the OSSC, and I've tried plugging headphones into the 3.5mm jack on the HAS, but I'm still not getting any audio going that route, either. The OSSC is set to Line5x mode; haven't tried switching to line2x or anything a little more lenient. The weird thing is that there's no audio or video, though - I could understand the OSSC having video issues but still outputting sound... but nothing? Just kinda weird. The board was working fine before the seller sent it, and it was well-packed... so that, combined with the fact that the board is getting power has me pretty confused as to what's happening.
All other JAMMA boards I have work fine with these settings. Cave stuff, CPS-2 stuff, ZN-2 stuff, etc.
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This really doesn't tell much, because the HAS settings could have changed during shipping or during case assembly, it's been almost two years?When you say you don't get audio, have you also tried to plug in the headphones or speakers to the HAS' 3.5mm jack output? If not, please do it, wait a moment for the attract mode sounds (unless it's disabled, then add coins instead).
I used to own a Mr Driller 2 PCB and also know people who own it and it works just fine, however not sure if it's compatible with the OSSC (it should be, though - try changing H-PLL pre and post coast settings).

edit: The most important question that I should have asked earlier - does the OSSC lock the signal (the OSSC's LCD screen should display the refresh rate of the signal)? If it does, but you don't see anything on the screen, then it's a problem with your TV set.
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My Mr. D 2 and Mr. D G PCBs both work great with the HAS and an OSSC. Once I get dug out a bit, I'll post the settings if that helps and no one has done it yet.
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Actually, that would be super helpful.
Haven't had much time to take a look at it, but I remembered that I didn't fiddle with the volume knob at all when I connected headphones to the 3.5mm jack on the HAS... tried that, and -- sound! Ok, so the board is fine.

As for the OSSC, all it's telling me is "NO SYNC". I'll tinker with it a bit this weekend.
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OK, I aim to be helpful! Here is Mr. Driller G working with HAS 4.0 and OSSC. HAS is using AV3 with the 8pin din to the OSSC via VGA adapter (the same settings for Taito F3). Note that these are NOT optimal settings, just a quick get it locked for you to see it works. I have to dial everything back in when I get back home in two weeks, but I'm waiting to update the OSSC FW, which erases all the settings anyway.

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xtrasmiley said:
OK, I'm slowly digging stuff out to test (working on finding Mr Driller for you bud).

For now, I'm trying to get feedback out the door for all those who sold me PCBs, but I'm having trouble with two in particular. Cannot get sync with the OSSC from my HAS v4 on these two PCBs. Anyone got these to work and can post their settings? Again, not worried about display on TV yet, just tying to get sync on OSSC so I can confirm PCBs work to leave feedback for sellers.

Outzone
Tatsujin

Any help would be appreciated!

By the way, the new HAS is super sexy, great job as usual @RGB
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And to quote myself, and to reply, I just could NOT get this to work with the F3 settings. I switched back to buffered CSync and 75 Ohm (from buffered and TTL and VGA plug in the AV3 of OSSC) and AV1 via SCART and got both these games to work fine. Hmm, also, I bought the Tatsujin working with errors, so this was a plus as I couldn't spot any problems... Anyway, add these to @'jassin000''s list of games that don't seem to want to work via the F3 method (along with Mortal Kombat).
 
According to the LCD screens display... You are getting a interlaced signal, so changing the 240p/288p to 2x will have no effect.
You'll need to mess with the 480i settings.
xtrasmiley said:
AV1 via SCART and got both these games to work fine.
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It should always be used FIRST, only if you can't get the game working with SCART/AV1 (75ohm sync) should you switch to HD15/AV3 (TTL sync).
This has always been a work around if you can't get AV1 to work, and is why I'm always bitching at you guys asking for the HD15 HATs and adapters...
Unless you have a F3 or other strange sync board YOU DON'T NEED IT and YOU SHOULDN'T USE IT!
 
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jassin000 said:
According to the LCD screens display... You are getting a interlaced signal, so changing the 240p/288p to 2x will have no effect.
You'll need to mess with the 480i settings.
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Yup, but as I said, I just dug the board out and tossed it on to prove it works with the HAS, I didn't dial shit in as I'm going to update the OSSC in a few weeks which will wipe all my settings.

I'm hoping you develop a optimal profile for arcade boards like FBX is doing for consoles!

EDIT: And I don't mean to sound harsh with this reply, I just mean, I didn't mess with any settings at all, it was literary whatever setting it defaults to when I turn it on, but you're 100% correct, I shouldn't even have taken a pic of the 2x screen as it's pointless! I also realize I forgot to even take a pic of my TV showing the game working, but trust me it was, I almost beat the USA level, almost...
 
Not sure if everyone is aware, but Mr Driller 2 / G can output either 240p or 480i. The setting can be changed in the monitor test screen in the service menu. You have to press left and right IIRC.
 
nem said:
Mr Driller 2 / G can output either 240p or 480i.
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That's good info nem, because interlaced is handled so poorly by the OSSC (iScan DVDO VP50/50Pro does a much better job) you'll get a better image by scaling the 240p setting.

Oh and in case anyone is wondering the VP50's include the Abit (ABT-102) fast deinterlace chip thats why its better.
The VP20/30 can have a card optionally installed containing this chip, but its become impossible to find today (I did locate one and the guy wanted 300$ for just the GD card).
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The DVDO ABT-102 is a precision deinterlacing card, which will dramatically improve the 480i/576i deinterlacing performance of your iScan VP30 or VP20.
It eliminates many of the artifacts found in common deinterlacers to produce a smooth image, free of artifacts such as jagged edges and combing.
 
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nem said:
Not sure if everyone is aware, but Mr Driller 2 / G can output either 240p or 480i. The setting can be changed in the monitor test screen in the service menu. You have to press left and right IIRC.
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Wow, awesome info, thank you! When I get back and want to kick it Mr. D style, I know what to do now!
 
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