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kazuo

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Picked up this Sanwa JVS PSU for Model 3 boards from YAJ, and seems like it's actually "junk"... it ticks when it's powered on, and doesn't seem to work properly. A visual inspection doesn't reveal anything obviously wrong: caps look fine, no burn marks, no mysterious fluids, no apparent corrosion or other damage that might indicate a bad trace, for example. I haven't removed it yet to check for cold joints, but the ticking leads me to believe that likely isn't the problem. I checked the fuse and it has continuity, so I ruled that out right away. I tried a different power cable (I have several!), and I got the same symptoms. The PSU ticks whether or not it is connected to a board. I think the ticking might be coming from around the area near the 3 regulators and the coils.

I don't have a diagram of how this thing is wired up, but I think you can probably guess based on the wire colors for the harness what is what (12V Yellow, 3.3V Brown/Orange, 5V Red). The pin for 5V (with the red wire) is reading ~3V, and every other pin is reading under 1V. Adjusting the pots didn't seem to make any change in the voltage. I'm far from an expert in general, and I haven't really worked on power supplies before, so any help is appreciated!

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Found the pinout on TOPS website. EDIT: My original guess for the wiring was wrong, it seems like it's actually Red is 12V, Brown is 3.3V, Yellow is 5V. So I guess really I was reading ~3V on the 12V rail (with no load).
 

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Been messing with this on and off since I made this thread. Found some weird stuff with a diode or two and the 12/5/3V regulators, but ultimately ended up being dead ends when I compared it to the working PSU I also have. I tried pulling a small load on the 5V rail, no change, still dead. I ordered a cap kit on the off-chance that it fixes the problem, but I'm not holding my breath.

If you're following along and you're good at or you know someone good at PSU repair, send me a DM!
 
Found the pinout on TOPS website. EDIT: My original guess for the wiring was wrong, it seems like it's actually Red is 12V, Brown is 3.3V, Yellow is 5V. So I guess really I was reading ~3V on the 12V rail (with no load).
red is 12V? thats just weird
 
That's standard coloring for all Sega cabs. +5V yellow, +12V red, +3.3V brown.
Haha I should have been specific...i find their decision to do that odd.

Red in my kind is the universal color for 5V the same way black is universally ground
 
The PSU ticks whether or not it is connected to a board. I think the ticking might be coming from around the area near the 3 regulators and the coils.
are you feeding this 100V or 120V.

Some Japanese PSUs do not support 120V and will only work properly at 100V (Such as the Taito/Wei-Ya PSU used in the Vewlix and some Egrets)
 
Some Japanese PSUs do not support 120V and will only work properly at 100V (Such as the Taito/Wei-Ya PSU used in the Vewlix and some Egrets)
That big time.
I killed the audio amp on a JAMMA PCB this way (ie Wei-Ya 12v is unstable with 120v input).
 
It's a Mean Well. It's 100-120V. It can even be switched to 200-240V.
 
are you feeding this 100V or 120V.

Some Japanese PSUs do not support 120V and will only work properly at 100V (Such as the Taito/Wei-Ya PSU used in the Vewlix and some Egrets)

120V. As @nem pointed out, this is a rebranded Mean Well PSU manufactured for Sanwa (SWN-JVS IIRC), 120V is fine and within spec. I have another one I've been using at 120V for ages without any issues. The input voltage isn't the problem.
 
I realized I never followed up here for posterity, but... it got fixed! Not by me, though.

I sent it off to Sharp Image Repair in Las Vegas, and they did... I have no idea what they did, other than a full recap (since that part was obvious), but it has worked perfectly since I got it back.
 
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