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Vewlix Diamond Blue w/TTX3 + Brook UFB

Otachi_R1X

Otachi_R1X

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Hey All, here’s a little issue I’ve been banging my head against:

I have a Vewlix Diamond Blue cab with Fast I/O connected to a TTX3. I’d like to also be able to connect a PS4 in the cab too, which I have done with the use of a Brook UFB. It just requires swapping my control panel over the the UFB’s button harness every time I want to convert the cab over for consoles.

I got my hands on a Psychic Drive UFB to JAMMA board that in theory should allow me to use jamma harness to connect my control panel to the UFB for console play. https://www.psychicdrive.com/store/brook-ufb-to-jamma

Seeing as the Fast I/O board also has a JAMMA edge, I’m wondering if I could swap out my stock Vewlix control panel harness for a JAMMA harness and be able to relatively quickly and easily swap it back and forth between the Fast I/O and Psychic Drive UFB board, instead of having to rip out my control wiring every time? Is the jamma edge on the Fast I/O board even functional?

Any insight is appreciated!
 
Otachi_R1X said:
Hey All, here’s a little issue I’ve been banging my head against:

I have a Vewlix Diamond Blue cab with Fast I/O connected to a TTX3. I’d like to also be able to connect a PS4 in the cab too, which I have done with the use of a Brook UFB. It just requires swapping my control panel over the the UFB’s button harness every time I want to convert the cab over for consoles.

I got my hands on a Psychic Drive UFB to JAMMA board that in theory should allow me to use jamma harness to connect my control panel to the UFB for console play. https://www.psychicdrive.com/store/brook-ufb-to-jamma

Seeing as the Fast I/O board also has a JAMMA edge, I’m wondering if I could swap out my stock Vewlix control panel harness for a JAMMA harness and be able to relatively quickly and easily swap it back and forth between the Fast I/O and Psychic Drive UFB board, instead of having to rip out my control wiring every time? Is the jamma edge on the Fast I/O board even functional?

Any insight is appreciated!
Click to expand...
You could, but I think @Lemony Vengeance makes a harness for brook ufb to plug into taito J/K harness so you just swap two plugs every time.

@FrancoB has mounting solutions for it that are 3d printed as well. He has provided the files I believe.
 
What does "rip out my control wiring" consist of for you?

I never swap my Vewlixes, they're 100% on Brook, but I just pinned a connector so that it's easy to go back to stock if I wanted. It's just a matter of swapping one connector and all wiring is switched.
 
It sounds like you've got wiring that runs direct from the brook boards to the buttons, rather than into the cabinet 60 pin connector right?

You could handle this a few different ways. The quickest and easiest way to swap back and forth might be to just add JST YLR connectors to the ends of your brook harnesses to easily swap the panel wiring between the cabinet harness and brook harnesses.

You can also keep the fast io in at the same time with Franco's brackets:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/taito-vewlix-brook-ufb-jvs-pac2-mounts.21884/

You could also wire the brook boards into the cabinet harness. I did this for a while with test leads but it's possible to make something nicer. A male RA connector is really supposed to be a PCB mounted part, so a free floating harness is never gonna be great. Also, swapping out IO boards is actually pretty annoying since its half buried under the light.
 
notsonic said:
You could handle this a few different ways. The quickest and easiest way to swap back and forth might be to just add JST YLR connectors to the ends of your brook harnesses to easily swap the panel wiring between the cabinet harness and brook harnesses.
Click to expand...
To be clear, this is what I do. Stock wiring all intact, JST connector to Brook. Unplug that one JST connector and replug it back in and you're done.
 
Aurich said:
To be clear, this is what I do. Stock wiring all intact, JST connector to Brook. Unplug that one JST connector and replug it back in and you're done.
Click to expand...
This is really the simplest and most sensible way to go about it. That's how I did my Vewlixes.
 
I've been designing a bootleg "Vewlix console io" replacement PCB but I don't really think it's worth it. Franco's bracket solves keeping the card reader lit up (by leaving one of the stock IOs in place) and physically mounting the brook boards.

I'm printing one of Franco's brackets right now and I'm gonna make the wiring harnesses later. I'll post up results when I'm finished.

I've been using a JVS-PAC2 and Sega v1 I/O's but I've been concerned about the latency. Sega v1 I/O is slow, daisy chained even slower. I don't think the JVS-PAC2 is inherently slow but then I've got another software layer converting its keyboard inputs into xinput. That's a lot of layers.
 
notsonic said:
It sounds like you've got wiring that runs direct from the brook boards to the buttons, rather than into the cabinet 60 pin connector right?

You could handle this a few different ways. The quickest and easiest way to swap back and forth might be to just add JST YLR connectors to the ends of your brook harnesses to easily swap the panel wiring between the cabinet harness and brook harnesses.

You can also keep the fast io in at the same time with Franco's brackets:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/taito-vewlix-brook-ufb-jvs-pac2-mounts.21884/

You could also wire the brook boards into the cabinet harness. I did this for a while with test leads but it's possible to make something nicer. A male RA connector is really supposed to be a PCB mounted part, so a free floating harness is never gonna be great. Also, swapping out IO boards is actually pretty annoying since its half buried under the light.
Click to expand...
Yep correct, I was using a separate harness that goes direct into the UFB, requiring me to disconnect and swap the lever and buttons over every time.

And to be clear I was never removing my fast io board from the cab, just disconnecting the harness from the control side. I just had the UFB sitting in the control panel on adhesive standoffs. Then I found the Psychic Drive board and thought it might solve my issue, but would require a jamma harness, which then led me down that path.

Definitely going to grab one of those brackets though, thanks for that!
 
I went and printed one of Franco's mounts and made a harness. My only pro tip would be that if you have an F, it's a good idea to flip the brook boards around the other way. The 20 pin harness really has to get shoved under the light box otherwise. Also if you have an extra button panel it's a tight fit, especially if you still have the spill guard in place. I recommend using short buttons like Hori Hayabusa or even better, Seimitsu PS-15.

PXL_20230506_200318717.jpg PXL_20230506_200603188.jpg
 
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