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Home Arcade System

Hello everyone
I can now finally say i have my first HAS supergun (i know am late).
Thanks to the new store website it was super easy to order and came fast shipped to my doorstep in less than 2 days amazing.
I would highly recommend anyone looking for a quality supergun to check out this product/store if they are looking to get into the hobby.
Thank you guys i really appreciated all the hard work and innovations over the years. :)
 

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aha2940 said:
I have a Meanwell RT 125A and it works well for many boards, but there are a couple (NeoGeo MV-1C and PGM) that do not produce the required load on the power supply and therefore it does not power on with those boards (which are the ones I use the most). It does work correctly with CPS1, CPS2, Atomiswave and an MK2 board, though.
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Is this true of the newest models of the 125A?
 
aha2940 said:
I have a Meanwell RT 125A and it works well for many boards, but there are a couple (NeoGeo MV-1C and PGM) that do not produce the required load on the power supply and therefore it does not power on with those boards (which are the ones I use the most). It does work correctly with CPS1, CPS2, Atomiswave and an MK2 board, though.
Click to expand...

I've heard you can bridge a 10W 10Ohm resistor between the 5v and common ground terminals and it tricks the PSU into thinking there is a load present.

XtraSmiley said:
Is this true of the newest models of the 125A?
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I think the issue has been fixed in new models. The RD-125A I got last year works with PGM and MVS on a Minigun. I have an RT-125A on the way from Digikey and can test when it comes in.
 
XtraSmiley said:
Is this true of the newest models of the 125A?
Click to expand...
No idea, my 125A has a few years already.
tDRG said:
I've heard you can bridge a 10W 10Ohm resistor between the 5v and common ground terminals and it tricks the PSU into thinking there is a load present.
Click to expand...
I think the same, however I have not tried it. I ended using the 125A for another thing and got an arcade PS to use with my HAS. Everything works correctly so far.
 
Has anyone used their HAS for 4P on a PGM? I recalled RGB used the PGM pinout for the 4P adapter, but I just realized that the HAS connector is only a 20-pin subset of the 34 pins on the PGM. I have 20-pin IDC connectors, but while it should be easy to shave off the key, shaving off the edge to help it fit next to the other 14 pins might compromise the connector casing.
 
9999 Damage said:
Has anyone used their HAS for 4P on a PGM? I recalled RGB used the PGM pinout for the 4P adapter, but I just realized that the HAS connector is only a 20-pin subset of the 34 pins on the PGM. I have 20-pin IDC connectors, but while it should be easy to shave off the key, shaving off the edge to help it fit next to the other 14 pins might compromise the connector casing.
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4P adapter for PGM is a simple passive cable, that can be made with a 34-pin floppy disk soldered to a couple DB-15 male plugs:

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aha2940 said:
4P adapter for PGM is a simple passive cable, that can be made with a 34-pin floppy disk soldered to a couple DB-15 male plugs:
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Thanks! Putting together a janky homebrew cable was actually my first arcade project last year. I finally tested it today and confirmed I got the pinout wrong. 😅 Should be an easy fix. Still, since I now have these beautiful HAS 4P adapters, I'd love something more elegant-looking. Maybe I can make a 34-pin to 20-pin adapter.
 
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9999 Damage said:
Thanks! Putting together a janky homebrew cable was actually my first arcade project last year. I finally tested it today and confirmed I got the pinout wrong. 😅 Should be an easy fix. Still, since I now have these beautiful HAS 4P adapters, I'd love something more elegant-looking. Maybe I can make a 34-pin to 20-pin adapter.
Click to expand...
I am also interested in a PGM HAS 4P adapter.
 
Just cross-posting that RetroFrog's SNES2Neo adapters work great with my HAS (tested on HAS v3.1). Absolutely no problem with remapping or auto-fire. https://twitter.com/triple_lei/status/1658254975557074944

Also, I just had this crazy idea of a new housing for the OSSC that combines it with the HAS, since the HAS is all I ever use the OSSC for these days. Right now I have my OSSC in a 3D-printed case by LaserBear, but I wouldn't mind going back to acrylic plates if the bottom of the OSSC plate was also the top of the HAS plate. Or maybe have the OSSC on the bottom, I dunno. Are the chances non-zero that this could happen!?
 
@RGB I want unfiltered sync from my game PCB out of the HAS. Therefore I change the SW2 DIP to 1 (TTL) and the CSync to U according to the manual.

However the manual states that in U mode the signal still goes through a 470 ohm resistor ? Is this true when the level is TTL as well ?
 
Correct, it still goes through a 470 ohm resistor, even in the TTL mode.
 
So happy I went with a HAS for my first-ever supergun project. I'm finally finishing up my CPS2 Darksoft multikit move into one of Jasen's Customs CPS2 cases (just need to wire and solder buttons for easy external access), and the HAS works great with it. My eyes lit up when I successfully tested the 3p4p module along with Undamned USB decoders with Shadow Over Mystara :)

That said, I am having a bit more trouble with my NBA Maximum Hangtime board; the screen rolls right from the getgo on the test screen on my Sony Trinitron CRT. I do have the HAS connected to the TV via a Retrotink RGB2Comp adapter (running from the HAS's mini 8-pin > SCART > RGB2Comp > Component into the TV), which I suspect might be causing the issue though don't know for sure. Has anyone else had similar issues with Maximum Hangtime or other Midway boards connecting into the HAS and/or using an RGB2Comp to a consumer CRT?

Also, would anyone know whether the 3p4p module works with Maximum Hangtime and other Midway 4-player games?
 
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