What's new
By:
Filters

Namco Exceleena Restoration

Gamesmonkey said:
Sorry I meant the adapter guide.
That's a really handy little tool to have.
IMG_8874.jpg
Click to expand...
Ha got ya. I got mine here in Aust from CQB Arcade.

https://www.cqbarcade.com/search?q=murakumo+arts&options[prefix]=last
 
I found a seller of the original levellers -

https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/221004903887/?PNSearch=KC-270-3&HissuCode=KC-270-3&searchFlow=suggest2products&Keyword=KC-270-3&list=SuggestPreview

(Not sure why this is linking to the Thailand shop).

I didn’t quite work out whether they sell to the public. They’re quite expensive. About $15 USD each.

Edit. Looks like they do.

For now I cleaned up the old ones and put some felt on the bottom. They’re a bit corroded but fully functional.

IMG_8907.jpeg
IMG_8908.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I also finished off my little replica CCF tube. I changed the purple tape to some coloured book covering. It does the trick for now with a slight blue/pink light. Similar enough to the control panel art colours. Again - hard to photograph but you get the idea. I used 16mm rubber furniture feet for the end caps.

IMG_8910.jpeg
IMG_8911.jpeg
 
I’m pretty happy today after picking up the powdercoated cabinet and bits. It’s just a relief to know that despite some dings in the metal here and there - I have a clean, rust free, silvery sparkly cabinet. Many of the internal parts were not painted or prepared to last for years, but now they’re better than new.
IMG_8917.jpeg
IMG_8918.jpeg
IMG_8923.jpeg
IMG_8919.jpeg
 
Ziggy Cheetos Dust said:
I work with aviation engineers and a couple of them frowned at me for using cable ties on harnesses and said I should be using wax string - with the proper knot. I thought this was funny seeing as it has no functional justification in an arcade machine.
Click to expand...

Electrocoin in the UK used to do this back in the day. My Konami X-Men cabinet came with wax string knotted wiring harnesses.

Ziggy Cheetos Dust said:
The reason behind me getting this odd Spanish machine that had some history in Finland
Click to expand...

Oh shit, did it have a Raha-automaattiyhdistys / RAY sticker on the back? The high voltage warning is definitely something that was in every cab here. Wild that it has ended up at the other side of the world!
 
nem said:
Electrocoin in the UK used to do this back in the day. My Konami X-Men cabinet came with wax string knotted wiring harnesses.



Oh shit, did it have a Raha-automaattiyhdistys / RAY sticker on the back? The high voltage warning is definitely something that was in every cab here. Wild that it has ended up at the other side of the world!
Click to expand...
I’ll have another look. There was Pelika I recall and some other sticker that’s worn. I’m guessing Pelika was a distributor?
 
FrancoB said:
Indeed. Lovely colour too :thumbup:
Click to expand...
It worked out well Franco. I was a bit worried it wouldn’t be quite right when compared to the little swatch sample, but it’s as good as the same as original I think. Let’s see when I put it next to the other one.
 
Ziggy Cheetos Dust said:
I’ll have another look. There was Pelika I recall and some other sticker that’s worn. I’m guessing Pelika was a distributor?
Click to expand...

Pelika was the videogame subsidiary of Raha-automaattiyhdistys, the biggest operator of coin automated gaming and gambling machines, supervised and owned by the Finnish government.
 
The sandblasted speaker panels came up very nicely. I thought they’d be crusty under the bubbling and rusty paint, but they weren’t. In this blasted state any finger tip oils cause them to start to rust almost immediately. In my case I just carefully sprayed them with satin black enamel. I didn’t overdo it and close over the perforations. Those spots in the pics are not visible to the eye. Something to do with the camera and the angle of the light across the holes. Another job down.
IMG_8933.jpeg
IMG_8951.jpeg
IMG_8952.jpeg
 
Last edited:
The cable retainers were a bit of a mess after the cab was powder coated. They’d covered them with some sort of protective tape, but the plastic covering still melted. I picked and scraped all the gunk off and as suggested earlier in the thread I covered them with heat shrink. I was going to use braided heat shrink for a bit of a more premium feel but didn’t bother in the end as I had heaps of the normal stuff.
IMG_8943.jpeg
IMG_8986.jpeg
 
Unfortunately one spot was not powder coated. It was covered by protective tape meant for the wire retainer. I later just sprayed some silver paint over it. It wasn’t a nice match but will stop that bare surface from rusting. It will also be well hidden by the coin box receptacle.
IMG_8942.jpeg
 
With such nice surfaces now, I’ve gone ahead and stuck some protective foam and felt on different spots to prevent scratching when they rub against each other. This is the top plate mounting area and the marquee bracket.
IMG_8941.jpeg
IMG_8987.jpeg
IMG_8988.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I found a couple of drips of powder coat that had formed on the edge of the CP. I just scraped them off with a blade. It left the CP a little exposed, but for home use it’s not going to be an issue. I set up the control panel as well. Firstly sticking down the nice thick @alberto1225 overlay and then using a Dremel and router bit to cut out the holes. This removes the powder coat from the inner surface of the buttons, but to cut the holes using a separate bit of metal as a guide would have been a pain. I’m just going with four buttons for now as this will be a tate shmups machine. I found the 3D printed Buttercade bullet tops a bit sharp on the bottom with the joystick shaft length, so I’ve swapped them out with KDiT Kinu ball tops which match the grey bottom and Exceleena bezel better.
IMG_8938.jpeg
IMG_8940.jpeg
IMG_8989.jpeg
IMG_8990.jpeg
IMG_8992.jpeg
IMG_8994.jpeg
IMG_8995.jpeg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top