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sorry im horrible at wiring bare with me I understand now on the cute. I have a taito e3 i would like to use this in. If im gathering i would have to add a wire to jamma edge to get -5?

My understanding is that the Egret 3 is not wired for JAMMA but for JVS. You can replace the PSU in that cabinet with a QP-150-3A and this AWSD interface PCB but JVS boards don’t require -5V.


The Egret 3 is wired for JAMMA and has the additional JVS power harness. In the Egret 3, the 3.3v is routed to the JST VL connectors for JVS power. The Egret 3 also has a JAMMA connector but it is missing the -5V. You could add in the 2 pins that are in the -5v position on the JAMMA harness then route those (2) -5v wires to the Molex connector on the Egret 3. You should see that factory Egret 3 Molex connector is also missing 2 pins. So you should be able to add 2 pins on the JAMMA side, a small bit of wire and 2 pins for the Molex side. Once that is done, moving the solder jumper to the -5v position should bring the -5V all the way to the JAMMA edge.
 
Has anyone had any luck running one of these in a Vewlix? These are the connectors for the wei-ya power supply.
 

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While I've yet to actually try it...
The Vewlix JVS power harness (yes even with it missing some pins/connections) should be 100% compatible with this design/PCB!

I've over-layer the pins from the harness with the PCB image for comparison...
1KjlSHH.png


Brown = 3.3v
Black = Ground
Red = 5v
Yellow = 12v

PrjeSIF.jpg


Can I finally ditch these horrible Wei Ya PSUs (and step-down transformer)?
 
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@Plastic that harness is missing B1 connector (see my image above) this is needed to bridge the DC ground from the JVS PSU to the DC ground of the cab PSU. Without it you will experience some video noise/interference.
 
@Plastic that harness is missing B1 connector (see my image above) this is needed to bridge the DC ground from the JVS PSU to the DC ground of the cab PSU. Without it you will experience some video noise/interference.
What connector is used for B1?
 
@Plastic that harness is missing B1 connector (see my image above) this is needed to bridge the DC ground from the JVS PSU to the DC ground of the cab PSU. Without it you will experience some video noise/interference.
Ah, do I need it connected to chasis ground if I connect to the DC ground?
 
JVS PSU is fine/Earth'd correctly.

When you have separate DC power sources (JVS PSU + cab PSU) feeding into one system (in your case Naomi) you should tie (see the official B1 connector) the DC grounds together (failure to do this can be the cause of audio hums and/or video noise).

NEVER connect a earth ground to a DC ground.

I ordered some PCBs from OSH Park, Mini Fit Jr connectors (Molex 39-28-1103 & 39-28-1083) from TTI and finally the JST 5-pin from rando eBay person (that was kind of a bitch to locate for some reason).
I'll post some fully assembled shots (hopefully) in a few weeks time.

I'm going to skip the volt meter as I'm looking to simply replace the Wei Ya as-is/no additional functionality required.
Thank you @dewmansnk for creating/sharing this excellent project/device.
 
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JVS PSU is fine/Earth'd correctly.

When you have separate DC power sources (JVS PSU + cab PSU) feeding into one system (in your case Naomi) you should tie (see the official B1 connector) the DC grounds together (failure to do this can be the cause of audio hums and/or video noise).

NEVER connect a earth ground to a DC ground.

I ordered some PCBs from OSH Park, Mini Fit Jr connectors (Molex 39-28-1103 & 39-28-1083) and finally the JST 5-pin from eBay (that was kind of a bitch to locate for some reason).

I'm going to skip the volt meter as I'm looking to simply replace the Wei Ya as-is/with no additional functionality required.
Ok, thanks for the info.
 
Not too late at all, shoot me a PM with how many you want and I will get you a total with shipping. I have all the parts and build them as they are ordered. I usually ship out in a few days.
 
Not too late at all, shoot me a PM with how many you want and I will get you a total with shipping. I have all the parts and build them as they are ordered. I usually ship out in a few days.
Sent you a dm, thank you!
 
PCBs arrived from OSH Park today (I realized they were the older version 4 design, so I only built-out two and ordered 3 more ver 5s)...

Populating the boards.
hf61e9v.jpg


Connecting the Vewlix stock JVS harness.
MNxILSk.jpg


Probed AOK (you can't see the 3.3v solder strap is closed in the image)!
HtwPs9N.jpg
 
Looking good, brother
Thanks man!

Going to order the actual Mean Well PSU this week (wanted to be sure my PCBs came out good first).
Looking forward to the new Ver 5 PCBs next weekend, got the thicker copper option on this batch as well. :)

Oh and some more ground loops to crimp-on my earth wires.
 
I didn't like the clearance between the PCB and the outer/shell case.
Being made of Al, this cut like butter with my Dremel.
rHOv4kC.jpg

e6Or19b.jpg


Got a nice/thick earth ground crimped up/attached...
LsN7EmC.jpg


Much better, tho I might cut the case a little more so I can easily access the adjustment pots.
nILw7U6.jpg


100% ready for insertion/installation. :)
yUj2dQj.jpg
 
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The nylon hardware that is used to hold the voltage display serves a second purpose of providing non conductive posts to prevent the backside of the PCB from contacting the metal case. Although your solution works as well, clearance for days with that approach.

The pics earlier in the thread show a single nylon nut on the backside of the PCB, I ended up using 2 nylon nuts with the production units - that provided near perfect height so the double nuts make nice contact with the metal power supply case and provide support when you plug in the connectors.

The PCBs I got from JLCPCB along with the pleasing black solder mask also have ENIG plating so the large exposed fingers do not get oxidized as easily.
 
The nylon hardware that is used to hold the voltage display serves a second purpose of providing non conductive posts to prevent the backside of the PCB from contacting the metal case.
Right, I remembered reading that earlier in the thread.
I felt like this (mod) was fail proof. :D

Anyway, installed/connected to the Jammafier+Tri-Sync Helper+OSSC for testing (notice JAMMA extender is also backwards, corrected in final shot/before connecting game PCB). ;)
1CZv1L2.jpg


Everything looking good (don't worry I also checked the 3.3v line externally/multimeter).
ZHqEOcj.jpg


The reason for the Try-Sync Helper, Taito F3 (won't work via OSSCs SCART port/must use VGA/RGBs)...
NI06wue.jpg
 
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