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Pinouts are here:

https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Sega_Blast_City_Wiring_Guide#Cabinet_I/O_Board
https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/sega-model-2-and-model-3-filter-board-pinouts.1121/

2-pin connector is probably for the coin meter. You can leave it disconnected.

Triple check the power connections, everything else you are safe to mess up.

Thank you! Yeah saw a 2 pin connector on the Blast City IO board and it said "Coin Chute | Ground" not sure if that's kinda what you saw as well or if that is unrelated. I will leave it disconnected for now.|

Do I need to set the game to free play if the 2 pin cable left disconnected?
 
Damn. So I turned it on and had no character graphics on screen. Called the person I bought it from who told me to test the voltages and in his opinion using the blast city power supply didn’t work well in his experience.

I’ll test the voltages. He recommended a PC power supply modified to work with the model 3.

Crying.

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Damn. So I turned it on and had no character graphics on screen. Called the person I bought it from who told me to test the voltages and in his opinion using the blast city power supply didn’t work well in his experience.

I’ll test the voltages. He recommended a PC power supply modified to work with the model 3.

Crying.

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That Blast is gorgeous. Can we see more pictures of the screen?
 

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Do I need to set the game to free play if the 2 pin cable left disconnected?

No, that's not necessary. Your coin counters just won't increase when inserting credits.

Called the person I bought it from who told me to test the voltages and in his opinion using the blast city power supply didn’t work well in his experience.

The power supply in the Blast is made for Model 3.

There are adjustment pots for the voltages on the front of the PSU box. Measure and adjust as necessary.
 
So I’m getting 5.35 Volts and 3.758 Volts. Above the normal voltage. So I do want to try to dial in as close to 5V and 3.3 V as I can get right?
 
Tested again with power supply and game on to see under load.

Only could get 4.97v and 2.87v. The 5v pot broke where you put the tool to adjust it in I just had a flat head and part of the head seemed to break off so I can’t turn it now.

Leaning toward trying Sun or atx power supply.
 
Authentic NNC panel arrived! I painted the edges white where the white paint rubbed off with a tiny brush. Think I did an ok job. So much nicer than the plastic repro I had.

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3D printed tray from eBay. Not sure if I’m stupid but I had to file it down to make it fit.

No more dropping SD cards. Also got about 950 USA, Japanese, euro exclusive, gun patches, homebrew, translation set on a 1tb sd card. Was having compatibility issues with a sandisk 1.5 tb micro sd. Would not boot once near capacity.

Switched to PNY 1tb micro and all appears to be well.

Had to shrink some USA titles to make it fit. Using OpenMenu although I personally like the simplicity of gdmenu.

When more cards get on the market should be able to fit it all on a 1.5 tb or 2tb micro sd in the future.

Yeah I won’t play most games but it warms my heart to have a complete set for such an amazing console filled to the butt with arcade classics.

If I can get total titles under 999 may try to switch back to gdmenu.

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I had someone build me a cable for my Corsair PSU directly to my VF3 board and this is what they made. Am I crazy or is this incorrect? The Blue circled connectors are for the Corsair PSU side I think but where would I plugin the Red circled connectors?

I think they just made a "model 3 cabinet" harness and not a direct Corsair -> VF3 power cable.

These are the pics they provided to me once done.
 

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Sorry, try again. but yes, If you want to connect the Model 3 filterboard power pins to an ATX PSU, then the cable you have shared will not pass...
 
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