WTB Chihiro type 3 pcb (complete box) needed

[AgentHero]

There appear to actually be a few card readers on eBay currently. 2 from the seller I mentioned earlier who guts cabs and lists parts pretty high. He's got 2 readers for 125 each OBO, as-is, though they don't come with any wiring at all, and I'd be surprised if you're missing the card reader that you have the wiring going all the way up to the reader like would be needed for these 2:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/maximum-tun...012789?hash=item3d2bfd1ab5:g:d5MAAOSwImRYNTyY
http://www.ebay.com/itm/maximum-tun...011766?hash=item3d2bfd16b6:g:oVUAAOSwiONYNTv0

You'd probably be better off with this one that has some wiring up to a connector on it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAXIMUM-TUN...424281?hash=item25c8122cd9:g:E~gAAOSw6BtVVS~1

Here are the pricey Chihiros I mentioned:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/sega-naomi-...770738?hash=item3ad30a4cb2:g:wKsAAOSw5cNYNTR-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/sega-naomi-...686772?hash=item3d2be8def4:g:CQQAAOSwB09YM~ZJ


Note that they don't come with AVIP cables, which are needed for booting, but you can pull it from your broken board if you end up buying one.


He has one AVIP cable listed separately:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/sega-naomi-...742954?hash=item3d2be9ba6a:g:VGIAAOSw5cNYNAUK

I honestly don't know what a decent fair price is a for a working Type 3 these days. They don't come up a lot from what I have seen recently, though I don't look that often anymore. I think if I saw one for under $400 buy-it-now and it was complete, I'd consider it... $300 or less and I'd probably pounce. I got screwed on my last purchase of a Type 3 that was BIN for $385+shipping because it ended up missing a network board that I had to pay extra for from another source, putting it at over $450 all said and done, and I wouldn't have paid that out right for a complete working unit.

Edit: And to put this all into a pricing perspective: I paid $350 for my OR2SP cab that needed a $15 stick of RAM and everything worked... so a complete cab and working Type 3 Chihiro for less than I paid for a complete Chihiro on its own. Trying to get parts is way less cost effective than buying a working full cab outright.

I've been scouring the internet to see what is for sale and how the prices are. Thing is, the complete games are almost always cheaper than buying parts because of space and logistics issues. So a $400 OR2 doesn't necessarily mean hard to find parts are a fraction of that price. I think several folks on here would pay $800 for an OR2, but not if it requires shipping across the world.

I have cables that are labeled for the card reader...it looks like they were just pulled by a previous operator. There were a few stacks of tokens from about five different arcade fun centers along with several sets of each of the cards. So I assume it had working readers in it and someone didn't want to fish out the wiring and just grabbed the readers. Is there a specific model number for these readers--or a compatibility list for other games that would've used them?

 

[winteriscoming]

Is there a specific model number for these readers--or a compatibility list for other games that would've used them?

I don't know the model #'s off hand, but the readers for your game should work with Maximum Tune 1, 2 and 3, and supposedly Mario Kart Arcade GP 1 and 2, but @freddiefiasco has a recent post where he was attempting to wire up the card reader in his Max Tune cab to work with Mario Kart and it wasn't working for him, so not sure if it's simple plug'n'play for Mario Kart.

I have one of the physical readers for Maximum Tune and can confirm it works for 1 and 2 as I can boot both, and the card emulator I put together to spoof this reader works for both 1 and 2.

The readers for Initial D 1-3 and some other games are a different model and not compatible. The readers for Initial D 4-8 are yet another model.

 

[winteriscoming]

I have cables that are labeled for the card reader...it looks like they were just pulled by a previous operator.

Take pics of the end and I can help determine if you'd be ok with one that has no wiring at all or if you're missing a part of the wiring.

 

[AgentHero]

Here's a batch of pictures to serve as a formal introduction--cables that are in the card reader, the two main boards in the faulty Chihiro (no Status lights were lighting up...no red, no green...everything else in the cabinet was lit the same as my working cabinet) my row of games (NAOMI works, just didn't turn it on--still gotta get the power strips and such wired but for now it's a bit limited...not quite ready for the OOH AHH lit up pics), a Kixx bubble soccer that works but needs the players painted so they're in the "locker room" and not on the pitch:

Pictures

not pictured: HotD 3 is to the left on the wall...too big to fit into the picture...maybe when I get it all set up I'll open the garage door at the other end of the garage and it'll fit in the pic then...or it's here
It's in pieces since I was cleaning out the cabinet and seeing what was all in there. It looks like the monitor used to be the old rear projection monster. It's been replaced with an LCD panel. The projection "bulbs"? are still all in there. Whatever they're called--it looks like 3 theater spotlights or something likely for each color to be projected. Not sure if it could still be reverted to that old nonsense, but it's interesting nonetheless.

 

[winteriscoming]

Actually, I think you're good to go with card reader wiring. You have wiring that goes all the way to the 3 connectors on the reader, so you'd be fine with those eBay readers that have no wiring (as long as they work).

 

[AgentHero]

Just to put this thread to bed--I ended up swapping in the bottom half of my Type 1 HotD 3 to the MT game. It works, based on testing it in my HotD 3 cabinet, but now I'm trying to figure out why I'm not getting any picture in my cabinet. I'll move over to tech help for that. Thanks for all of the help. I'll still keep pecking away at the smoked board set too.

 

[winteriscoming]

Just to put this thread to bed--I ended up swapping in the bottom half of my Type 1 HotD 3 to the MT game. It works, based on testing it in my HotD 3 cabinet, but now I'm trying to figure out why I'm not getting any picture in my cabinet. I'll move over to tech help for that. Thanks for all of the help. I'll still keep pecking away at the smoked board set too.

So this confirms that a Type 3 can be resurrected with a Type 1. I'd be curious to know if you could safely update with Type 3 firmware or if you'd need to avoid it for risk of bricking anything that came from the Type 1.

 

[freddiefiasco]

Is there a specific model number for these readers--or a compatibility list for other games that would've used them?

I don't know the model #'s off hand, but the readers for your game should work with Maximum Tune 1, 2 and 3, and supposedly Mario Kart Arcade GP 1 and 2, but @freddiefiasco has a recent post where he was attempting to wire up the card reader in his Max Tune cab to work with Mario Kart and it wasn't working for him, so not sure if it's simple plug'n'play for Mario Kart.
I have one of the physical readers for Maximum Tune and can confirm it works for 1 and 2 as I can boot both, and the card emulator I put together to spoof this reader works for both 1 and 2.

The readers for Initial D 1-3 and some other games are a different model and not compatible. The readers for Initial D 4-8 are yet another model.

Interestingly enough, those card readers that are currently listed on ebay are slightly different than the ones I have. (If by chance you decide to buy from this seller, make sure to use the best offer option, I have bought from him when I first started collecting and he does negotiate. He also has most of the harnesses for his items, he just sells everything in parts)

I actually bought my Chihiro system from him a couple years back and the one I got came with the AVIP cable and one game. I can't recall what I bought for it but it probably wasn't cheaper than YAJ.

The ones shown are CRP-1231LR-10NAB.
The ones I have both say CR-S31R-10HS3.

I don't know which model card reader officially comes with which WMMT version but they both work the same way.

The CR-S31R-10HS3 comes with a giant metal wall surrounding the card reader itself and slides in the card reader drawer. The card dispenser is similar to ID4,5,6,7,8 in that it uses a weight to push down cards as opposed to a card box similar to ID1,2,3 and FZAX.

I suspect the DIP Switches are located in the same area for both readers but I have yet to confirm the proper DIP settings to get MKGP1 or MKGP2 to work with this card. I will eventually get it confirmed for anyone here wanting to take advantage of these readers for use with their existing cards but I highly suggest using @winteriscomings emulator moving forward.

His emulator reduces the worry of losing your cards to damage or data corruption. WMMT3 (and higher), ID4 and higher has a data restore feature but it has its limitations.

For the sake of documentation here are some images.

Connector Info:


In order to change the DIP SW values, that big giant metal enclosure must be removed to be able to properly reach the switch (or tiny angled pin). This is partly the reason why I have not yet gotten around to confirming communication with MKGP2. At this point, it is even less of a priority but eventually will be discovered.

 

[twistedsymphony]

I am trying to run the chihiro bios on a normal xbox mobo, but after several months of reversing and dissasembly, it still doesn't seem to be willing to run.
I installed the additional memory chips and converted the xcodes, but there are more protection issues that need to be fixed.

Are the issues you're running into because of the differences in the MCPX chip or is it because you're you trying to get the mobo to work without the Chihiro baseboard/Media board setup?

 

[obcd]

I am running with a mediaboard / baseboard setup.
The mcpx is different between a retail and a chihiro unit.
This affects the booting as on mcpx3, the upper 512 bytes are the mcpx rom.
On mcpx2, the upper 512 are simply those of the bios.

The pic supervisor however is different as well.
On a retail, it expects a challenge response within several ms after bootup. A chihiro (and debug) don't need this, and the chihiro bios isn't providing it either. This causes the pic to reboot the system (fragging)

Further on, the chihiro bios is not only using different xcodes, it is also using almost double of them. Executing those instructions takes more time, and there isn't much of it before the pic expects it's challenge response as proof that the system is running.

As cherry on the cake, the retail pic seems to monitor the IIC communication to the conexant video encoder as well. Some vga settings seem to trigger a reboot as well.

Next issue is the fact that the chihiro kernel isn't compatible with a standard bios 2bl loader. The parameters passed to the kernel (kernel key, eeprom key and cert key) appear on a different offset of the stack.

The chihiro bios is pretty much a blackbox. If it isn't running, it's nearly impossible to figure out why.

My "defective" chihiro I bought on ebay did not only seem to have a defective main board. There is at least a short in it's baseboard video circuit as well. The communication with the dimm board doesn't seem to work either. Needless to say that those issues weren't very helpfull during my development process.

I am still convinced it should be possible. Just not sure if I will keep having the courage to continue working on this. Maybe as spinoff, I might be able to get some xbox games going on chihiro which might increase interest a little.

 

[matuga]

I have a usa style Mario GP2 that does not come with a card reader. I bought CRP-1231LR-10NAB. I see the Triforce pinouts, but I can't find pinouts for the card reader. Does anyone have them, or can anyone help me wire it up, by telling me where power (which I assume is 12v ) etc. goes?

 

[nem]

I have a Mario GP1 that has the card readers. I've never actually verified them working, because I don't have any cards.

Anyway, what do you actually need? Show pics of what you need connecting. I can look up the pinouts for you.