What's new
By:
Filters

Chihiro type3 stopped working/turned off - 2 status lights (green/red) are not on.

B

boostedskex

Student
Joined
Mar 5, 2019
Messages
40
Reaction score
10
Location
York, Pennsylvania
Hi guys,
I have 2 outrun2 cabinets linked together. We were playing them for about 45 minutes and the one machine turned off but still had power. I looked at the Chihiro and the 3 leds were still showing that it was powered on but the other 2 status leds were not on. Does anyone have any ideas what to look for when the status lights are not on?

Thanks,
Alex
 
Incredibly basic idea, and you've probably already tried it, but try putting the non-working Chihiro in the working cab.

Then you can be 110% certain it's the Chihiro and not the power supply or anything else.
 
  • Like
Reactions: nem
Also - check to make sure the AVIP cable (the small cable that connects the bottom board to the top is firmly plugged in both places - I have had that move slightly and produce what you are seeing.

And of course try what rewrite suggested - start eliminating variables.

Matt
 
Thanks for the input guys. I did put the non working Chihiro in the other cabinet to prove that the problem is in the Chihiro boards. The issue stayed with the Chihiro.

I will open the Chihiro up tonight. Any precautions to take or other ideas beside the AVIP cable on what to look for inside?

Thanks for the help!
 
The only issue I have had is the AVIP cable.... i know another part prone to failure is the fan on the GPU (which is on the very bottom) - and if the fan fails then the GPU gets too hot and shuts down and could damage the board.

There are also capacitors on the power supply area that if they are bulging need to be replaced, which is fairly simple to do. This is a post of what mine looked out before i swapped them.

clean up chihiro motherboard - a few questions

Matt
 
boostedskex said:
I will open the Chihiro up tonight. Any precautions to take or other ideas beside the AVIP cable on what to look for inside?
Click to expand...
You can remove the Button Cell on the upper board of the bottom part to prevent current while unmounting the boards.

Chihiro_BottomPart.JPG

And, I do agree : watch the 3 big caps near the CPU and replace them if they look weird or bulked
 
I have the Chihiro opened up. None of the capacitors are leaking or swelled. Both fans spin freely. When i put it back together i will make sure all cables are tight but anything else to check while its open?
 
That is all I can think of to check - if you want to post some pictures we can also take a look....
 
I cleaned everything up inside. I removed the heatsinks from the cpu and gpu and applied new thermal paste. Made sure all connectors were seated properly put it back together and I got the same thing. The 3 leds for 12v, 5v and 3.3v are lit and the 2 Status leds in the front are not on. I covered those 2 leds with my hands and powered on the machine and I could very faintly see them flash on for less than a second.

Ugh.... I was hoping cleaning it up would do the trick.
 
Maybe try swapping AVIP cables to rule out an issue with the cable.

Otherwise, completely remove the main pcb and check for whether or not it's cooked under the GPU. Maybe post a pic. I haven't personally had a cooked GPU, but they alter the color of the pcb.
 
I had one with a cooked gpu, and it still is trying to turn on. It simply ends with a red and green flashing light.

You can run some tests with the upper case removed. The system should turn on and the fans should start spinning, but you won't get any video.

You could measure on the main board power connector. You can find the expected voltages on many xbox forums.
Basically, there should be at least one standby voltage, and the main board should generate a voltage on the power on line of the supply connector.

Are you sure the clock capacitor on the main board didn't start to leak? The spilling is corrosive and can damage some pcb traces. It's close to the mobo front edge in the opposite corner of the cpu.
 
winteriscoming said:
Maybe try swapping AVIP cables to rule out an issue with the cable.
Click to expand...
I swapped the AVIP cable with no change.

obcd said:
Are you sure the clock capacitor on the main board didn't start to leak? The spilling is corrosive and can damage some pcb traces. It's close to the mobo front edge in the opposite corner of the cpu.
Click to expand...
None of the capacitors looked to be leaking at all.
 
winteriscoming said:
Otherwise, completely remove the main pcb and check for whether or not it's cooked under the GPU. Maybe post a pic. I haven't personally had a cooked GPU, but they alter the color of the pcb.
Click to expand...
I removed aall of the boards and inspected everything to the best of my ability. I did not see anything out of the norm on the bottom side of the board.
 
If you have your 3 voltages arriving and within tolerance, your problem can only be the base board, the main board or the cabling between the 2. So you might swap those boards over to a known working unit one at the time to find out which one of the 2 is causing your problem.

Make sure the pre last connector on the main board (the smaller one) is properly connected. It's the one that passes the led signals. It also should generate a pulse that turns on the unit at powerup.
 
http://irepairsega.com/

ken does a great job. cant garentee given the heat sinks were removed and put back on. but he bullet proofs the chihiros and repairs. I have sent him a few working because he upgrades the video chip fans. I have sent quite a few dead ones too the he has repaired.

I just realized you in europe and this might not be an option for you.
 
Last edited:
I spoke to Ken last night. I will most likely be sending my Chihiro to him. I am actually in York, Pennsylvania
 
Thank god. You may want to send your working one also. He will bullet proof it so it will last many years with out issues. The main issue is the video chip is that it likes to burn the pcb when it has issues. If it burns the pcb bad enough it will not be repairable.
 
The first one is off to Ken. I will probably send him the other in a few weeks. I will let you you guys know what he finds to be wrong that caused this problem
 
You asked about mine on KLOV, mine would freeze after about 30-45 of gameplay it was the power capacitors on the bottom board that was the cause, most likely Ken will replace those he does good work. If you need any help get a hold of me I am only a hour away plus I wanna stop at M&P and see if they still have any Chewlix's for sale.
 
Based on what you described and the experence i had with 5 other units. I am guessing the video chip needed reheating to the pcb.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top