GeorgeSpinner
Grand Master
I meant after you fixed the incorrect remote DIP install.
Good luck. Let us know how it goes. The more documentation, the better.
- Thread starter Darksoft
- Start date
Good luck. Let us know how it goes. The more documentation, the better.
9999 Damage
Grand Master
I'm back in business! The repositioned remote board fixed it. I can now set dips with either the filterboard remote or the Jasen's case remote. As a bonus, the ribbon cable doesn't even catch on fire anymore. Thank you, all, for your quick help. This community is amazing.
I also wanted to double check all the dips to ensure my mediocre soldering job did the trick, but the Carrier Air Wing test screen dip switch readout matched neither the physical dip switches nor the settings I could observe (e.g. screen was flipped, test mode was on but the dip readout didn't reflect that). So I'm just going to assume the readout doesn't show what I expect, and hope I soldered all pins correctly.
Also, am I the only one who played UN Squadron on the SNES, got psyched to learn about Carrier Air Wing as an adult, and then disappointed to find it's mediocre? Sad.
I also wanted to double check all the dips to ensure my mediocre soldering job did the trick, but the Carrier Air Wing test screen dip switch readout matched neither the physical dip switches nor the settings I could observe (e.g. screen was flipped, test mode was on but the dip readout didn't reflect that). So I'm just going to assume the readout doesn't show what I expect, and hope I soldered all pins correctly.
Also, am I the only one who played UN Squadron on the SNES, got psyched to learn about Carrier Air Wing as an adult, and then disappointed to find it's mediocre? Sad.
UN Squadron/Area 88 is also on the CPS1, Carrier Airwing/US Navy is the sequel. Yeah, I used to play UN Squadron on the SNES all the time, but never found either the CPS1 version of that game or its sequel to be mediocre, I think they're great games. Also pretty common in arcades at the time, didn't have to wait to become an adult to play em (even emulated, thanks to Callus)
Are all the dips on the A board set to “off” now?
9999 Damage
Grand Master
I remember finding UN Squadron in the arcade, but never Carrier Air Wing. I think I first found it two years ago when I set up my first RetroPie. Even if I saw Carrier Air Wing listed in MAME back in college 20 years ago, I wouldn’t have known it was the sequel to UN Squadron without some additional info (Capcom, screenshot, etc.).
Yes. Good question.
Not only did I have to re-solder the remote board points, I also had to re-solder a row of A-board dip switch joints because I had to desolder them to remove the remote board from its incorrect position. So that’s a whole other set of things I could have soldered badly!
GeorgeSpinner
Grand Master
I loaded up Carrier Air Wing and the checked my DIPs.
They match the physical settings perfectly.
I entered test menu via the "test" button, the DIPs should not (and do not) reflect that C8="ON".
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9999 Damage
Grand Master
Thanks. Did you flip all of them to on, or just some? When I did just some, they were accurate except for C8. When I did all of them, the readout was spotty.
GeorgeSpinner
Grand Master
No problem.
I had not done them all.
For you, I went back and did them all.
Here's what I noticed - they are also all accurate on mine, except for C8. It always shows OFF.
BUT - when I put pressure (very slight) on the corner of bank B ( by B8 ), C8 would show ON (if it was in the ON position).
Check if yours performs the same way.
It could be an issue with the way the remote DIP PCBs were manufactured, assembled, or a design flaw.
It's not a big deal because C8 is not that important to me. I'm fine getting into test mode using the "test" button.
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I've not had any reports of c8 not working. It might have been damaged when trying to desolder it from the first location to resolder?
Btw are you guys testing with the original filter dip bank or the jasen dip bank?
All my dips work as they should with the IDC dip PCB, both Mitsu and Jasen. With the Jasen one, the IDC connector on mine is upside down and needs to be flipped or a keying hole cut into the "top" in order for the dips to not be scrambled.
That's weird
I think it was a one-off problem or something. On mine it came withthe key hole facing down when it should have been facing up. Was no big deal since I was replacing the connector anyway due to the width issue, just glad I tested beforehand.
Still stange since professionals assembled those.
GeorgeSpinner
Grand Master
I am using the original DIP relocator. I didn't have to desolder. I had a smooth install.
I was helping @9999 Damage verify his setup by comparing it to mine.
I was surprised to see, what appears to be, a similar issue.
With the jasen case dips?
GeorgeSpinner
Grand Master
I was under the impression that @9999 Damage and I had the same DIP relocator but that was a mistake on my part.
I have the 3 foot extension and I believe he's using the filter mount version.
9999 Damage
Grand Master
I'm using the Jasen case dips. I was using the filter mount one just to make sure the behavior is consistent with the dips on the Jasen's case.
So, I did some more comprehensive testing using a few patterns of dips: all off, all on, alternating on-off, and alternating off-on. My findings:
So, I did some more comprehensive testing using a few patterns of dips: all off, all on, alternating on-off, and alternating off-on. My findings:
- A3 behaves erratically
- C4 is always OFF
- C6 is always OFF
- If all dips are ON, the on-screen settings values (e.g. CONTINUE is ON) behave as expected as long as they don't rely on the bad dips above. But the dip readout shows all dips as OFF except for A3, which I mentioned behaves erratically.
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You may need a new bottom solder pcb. Its easy to damage when removing.
