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What would life be without humor?
I am very aware that the selected things are everything else than top of the line.
But I am quite convinced that I can bring them with some tinkering to a useable level and maybe it helps interested people to get a cheap start so let's see what I will experience with the equipment and if I get my arcade board to play.
 
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The Supergun or CBOX as the manufacturer calls it, had finally arrived.
I put some stickers on to replace the Chinese text with English.

[EDIT] I misslabled as I translated the Chinese with google: Service should red Coin 1P, and Coin is Test-button and Coin 2P [/EDIT]

What I found out so far:
- There is no electronic on the board beside the Resistor and Power-LED.
- You can connect an ATX-Power-Supply but that might result in low 5V, if your power supply has weak 5V and you do not know how to crank them up
it is better to follow the advice to use a Mean Well RT-65A and wire it with with thick wire to the terminals, The power switch will only work with ATX-PSU.
The screw terminals can also be used as output if you want to power an Audio Amp or video converter.
- I recommend to check the calibration adjustment of the two voltmeters the are two holes on the bottom side through which you can reach a pot to adjust them.
- The 3 RGB pots can be adjusted to close to 0 Ohms what I think is the best you can do, because this CBOX does not include a proper video circuit!
If you plan to use a GBS-8200 (VGA) or a HD-VC9900 (HDMI) like me they have there own and the ones on the CBOX are not needed.
If you want to connect an Arcade CRT you can build an adapter that adapts to 8-pin NeoGeo style RGB-Port on this CBOX only in this setup the Pots might be useful.
If you plan to connect a SCART TV, Commodore 1084 or some Sony PVM you should defiantly add some AV-Driver as @nem proposed in in Post #5.
- The Audio output is really strange, you can connect one or two speaker with an RCA-plug it is directly the signal from the Arcarde PCB and not line level.
There is a Stereo switch with quite some strange thing with that switch you can select if the RCA-shield of both connectors is connected to GND or Speaker- (Jamma pin L)
I other words someone miswired that it is always mono. As the mainboard is black the traces are close to invisible that is also not easy fixable if I find a way I will give an update.
- The RGB DIN8 is Neo Geo compatible it uses the old variant where the composite pin is used for Sync not the newer one where Sync is on a separate pin,
this can be fixed with a simple bridge so both cables will work.
- The two 15-pin Neo Geo Controler ports seem to be compatible. They support a 5th and 6th Button over Jamma pin 26/d (NC) and Jamma pin 27/e (GND).

At the moment I am soldering a cable to connect the HD-VC9900 to the DIN8 that also supplies 5V and rewire the USB-Joysticks to Neo Geo.
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I use this mapping, the small button G is not connected, as it would short +5V to GND, H is theoretical useable, but NC on CBOX.
I removed the USB chip with hotair. As the 15-pin cable has quite short wires I unsoldered the flex cable and connected the nex cable to it.

Beside that pressing all buttons same time destroyed the USB-function of the joystick, which is not needed after changing cable, I am quiet happy with what I got for the little amount of money I spend.

After everything is prepared I will test everything tomorrow.
 
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The HD-VC9900 has problems with the Irem 55Hz, if you tweak the geometry you get picture but it's not stable. I will try a GBA-Control mod as soon as the ESP-OLED board arrives.
 
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