Just sent a message to Mike, but thought I'd post this in here in case anyone else has thoughts on this.
I've been using your Splitfire for my arcade streams for well over a year now and it's been working great for the bulk of my games. (I use it as a portable capture/stream setup. You may have seen my video on this. See below.)
View: https://youtu.be/BP37TB-6Oug
I was wondering if anyone else has had issues with Nintendo PCBs that use an inverted signal? I'm particularly trying to find a solution for my Super Punch-Out. The issue doesn't really appear to be the Nintendo PCBs or even the inverted signal, but rather an issue with the Sanyo arcade monitors (that many Nintendo games use) in general. For instance, on my Red Tent, I have one Sharp montor and one Sanyo in it. I don't have this issue when using a Sharp monitor. Only the Sanyo monitors.
I've been able to make my Red Tent work with the Splitfire by using an inverter to make it a "normal" signal before it hits the Splitfire (this has to be done because my capture device(s) don't respond well to receiving an inverted signal), and then use a second inverter to re-invert the signal before it enters the monitor. This seems to work fine with my Sharp monitor, but the Sanyo monitor in it, and other games that use the Sanyo monitors (such as my Super Punch-Out) have slight issues with it. I've noticed that when the signal gets re-inverted and sent to the monitor, the image is a bit darker. It almost appears as if the brightness and/or RGB cutoff values are a bit too low. I can't quite figure out why this is and why it open seems to happen with the Sanyo monitors.
Here's a photo of the Sanyo monitor in my Super Punch-Out as it normally looks.
And here's what it looks like after it runs through the Splitfire. (The signal comes out of the cabinet from the PCB, has been inverted to a "normal" signal, runs through the Splitfire, goes to my capture rig and then comes out of the splitfire, gets re-inverted to an "inverted" signal and enters the monitor. )
Here's also an image of what the capture feed looks like.
It looks spot on, so it's only an issue with the signal to the Sanyo monitor.
I've been trying to find some sort of amplifier I could add that would give me control over the brightness/contrast and possibly RGB cuttoff values. Any ideas or thoughts?
Is there maybe a version of the Splitfire that could be designed/modded to be used with Nintendo PCBs?
Thanks!
-James