- Thread starter invzim
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randomdoohickey
Student
Is the OLED display on all the time? Is there an option for an automatic idle display turn-off to preserve the life of the OLED?
That sucks!
Not now - but it may be a good idea. The life-time, defined as 50% original brightness is somewhere between 10,000 and 30,000 hrs - so wouldn't worry too much about it. Turn off display after 15 minutes, immediate wake-up on pressing the A/B buttons, or something like keep the display active as long as there is JVS activity + 15 minutes. Too many options make for confusion, so would be best to have something sane that isn't bothersome.
randomdoohickey
Student
The 15 minute display timeout with immediate enable sounds perfect. Comedy option would be a lit pixel in the corner that slowly blinks when idle. Getting all fancy would be something like light a corner pixel for a second, then next corner in a circular pattern like a "please wait..." spinning wheel. That way the pixel wear will be outside of the main data area and also give some indication that it's powered and running.
I think that is because it was sent via Fedex. Probably via regular post, they wouldnt charge anything.
True comedy option would be a dvd screen saver logo clone
Ordered PCB's today with the -5V and vewlix fix incorporated, get yours today 
Should ship out within 2 weeks.
https://irkenlabs.com/39-more-jammafiers
Should ship out within 2 weeks.https://irkenlabs.com/39-more-jammafiers
After having actually assembled the Boards, Bubble Bobble was showing up with a positive voltage on the -5V pin causing the inverter IC to act up. The fix is the diode that is soldered directly to the pins of the Jamma connector. In the next revision, this is a normal SMD component on the PCB itself.
The diff between rev 1.4 and rev 1.5 is mostly manufacturing related really, functionality, features and firmware will be identical (and no need of removing a resistor to get it to work with vewlix).
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Ok, after spending some more time testing this out it looks like the issues I was experiencing with the audio are caused by the PCB's I was using. My Snow Bros. PCB has a very quiet output and my Strider 2 PCB has lost the background music. So I have a few more things to fix.
I was also getting confused the the functions of the A/B buttons on the Jammafier thinking these were supposed to function like Test and Service buttons. Apparently this is incorrect. That means my Jammafier is working perfectly. I just need to get the Trisync helper to see if more games will be compatible with the RGBS input on the Namco Noir cabs. Pretty stoked that it works at all without the need for an OSSC. I played my Wonder Boy III PCB with no issues yesterday.
It even looks pretty good for LCD, really needs some scan lines though.
I was also getting confused the the functions of the A/B buttons on the Jammafier thinking these were supposed to function like Test and Service buttons. Apparently this is incorrect. That means my Jammafier is working perfectly. I just need to get the Trisync helper to see if more games will be compatible with the RGBS input on the Namco Noir cabs. Pretty stoked that it works at all without the need for an OSSC. I played my Wonder Boy III PCB with no issues yesterday.
It even looks pretty good for LCD, really needs some scan lines though.
xodaraP
Legendary
Low sound on Snow Bros is common. The custom audio circuit wears out and needs to be replaced, you can replace it with discrete components and the board has places for them (which is nice)
Or I think @caius makes a replacement board you can install new components on to if you prefer to stay closer to original and keep it all on one board
I've replaced a couple now
Or I think @caius makes a replacement board you can install new components on to if you prefer to stay closer to original and keep it all on one board
I've replaced a couple now
Yes, I reproduced both the Kaneko audio customs, you can read more here:
http://www.jammarcade.net/gals-panic-repair-log-and-kaneko-px4460-lpf6k-reproduction/
http://www.jammarcade.net/gals-panic-repair-log-and-kaneko-px4460-lpf6k-reproduction/
randomdoohickey
Student
Any reason not to have the +5 Vdc enabled by default for the Tri-Sync Helper? It's technically in-spec for VGA, right?
Is that a Samsung TV by chance that's correctly syncing on that signal?Ok, after spending some more time testing this out it looks like the issues I was experiencing with the audio are caused by the PCB's I was using. My Snow Bros. PCB has a very quiet output and my Strider 2 PCB has lost the background music. So I have a few more things to fix.
I was also getting confused the the functions of the A/B buttons on the Jammafier thinking these were supposed to function like Test and Service buttons. Apparently this is incorrect. That means my Jammafier is working perfectly. I just need to get the Trisync helper to see if more games will be compatible with the RGBS input on the Namco Noir cabs. Pretty stoked that it works at all without the need for an OSSC. I played my Wonder Boy III PCB with no issues yesterday.
It even looks pretty good for LCD, really needs some scan lines though.
If in doubt, leave it out. Or something like that. The Jammafier doesn't output VGA, and I imagine people will hook up the signal to all kinds of things that I have no control over - including DIY wire harness stuff. To minimize the risk of getting a cabinet 5V to GND short, I figured the easiest thing would be to have a jumper for it as it's really only useful when using the tri-sync helper.
But yes, 5V on pin 9 is/was a standard for VGA cards.
I've read that the official Sega NNC/Naomi cable lacks the 9th pin with 5v, it was said it could cause a heat issue if one uses a non original fully wired cable, so the 5v travels in the cable with no end on the chassis side. Cable gets hot in few minutes because the chassis isn't supposed to take the 5v.
Disabling the 5v could save some risks in case you don't need it.
Disabling the 5v could save some risks in case you don't need it.
Can confirm, there is no 9th pin on the vga cable in a net city cabinet.
Correct it is the stock screen. These are Sanwa Electronics BN32H07S LCD units produced in 2007. I have been scouring the internet for any information at all on these, but can't find anything useful. I have even tried using google translate to search Japanese websites with no luck. They do seem to be pretty good with their sync compatibility and hopefully the trisync helper will make this even better. It has a some useful adjustments which help with the signal compatibility.
