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Outfoxies issue

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Yubm12

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I recently acquired an Outfoxies PCB. The seller was unable to test the board before shipping but said it worked before they packed it up 6 months and the price was to good to pass up so i pulled the trigger.

The game boits fine and d doesn’t seem to have any graphic glitches, but the game doesn’t recognize down on the 1p joystick. Is this fixable and if so how?

Also of note, when i try to enter the test menu, the menu shows up while the test button is held, but reverts back to the gage as soon as i let go.

I know the stick works as I’ve tested it in other game’s test menu and all directions can be seen as working.

Any ideas?
 
Is it just desoldering the bad one and a good one and resolving the good one in place of the bad one? Is this a job a novice solder-er can/should undertake?
 
Yubm12 said:
Is it just desoldering the bad one and a good one and resolving the good one in place of the bad one? Is this a job a novice solder-er can/should undertake?
Click to expand...

Yep, that’s all it takes. I think a novice can do it with a small iron tip and magnification, although using a heating station rather than an iron to remove the filter parts is ideal. The tricky part is removing the filters since each filter is connected to the board with 16 solder joints.
 
I looked at them with my magnifiers on and am not positive which are good and which are bad. Not sure if these pics are good enough, but would appreciate another set of eyes before i dive in.
 

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You'll want to trace the circuit for your malfunctioning control input. In this case, Player 1 Down is Pin 19 of the JAMMA connector on the Parts (Top) side of the board.

JAMMA-Pinout-0003-JAMMA-Pinout.jpg

It's also conveniently labeled on the connector you have plugged into your board currently in your first picture.

You can see the circuit come out of the P1 Down pad on the JAMMA connector into the last pin on the FL12 filter. I recommend you take a multimeter, set it to Resistance (the Ohms symbol) and touch one probe to that JAMMA pin on FL12 and one probe on the other side of the filter opposite it. Do this with the board powered down.

If the meter reads the same as when the probes aren't touching anything, then there is no connection between the points on the circuit and you know that filter part is bad. If the meter does read a connection through the filter then the problem is further up in the circuit, past that filter. Your meter should read a connection on both corresponding sides of the filter on the other pins of the part since your other control inputs are working.

I don't see any obvious cracks in your filters like there was with mine, so your problem might be elsewhere - do the multimeter test to find out. How does the bottom side of the board look around the same area as your first pic?
 
I think the filter is bad. I used my multimeter and got nothing on p1 down and the numbers jumped one over on p1 left. Here’sa pic of my multimeter to make sure i did it correctly. I’m pretty new to all this.

I also tested Test and got no response, but i only have 1 spare filter that matches, so i suppose i have to pick p1 controls to repair and live without the test menu, right?

And here’sa pic of the bottom of the board
 

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Yubm12 said:
Also of note, when i try to enter the test menu, the menu shows up while the test button is held, but reverts back to the gage as soon as i let go.
Click to expand...

I don't personally own Outfoxies to confirm either way, but this is fairly common with Namco games.
 
No sign of damage on the underside of the board, so that’s good. And the video you sent me of probing the inputs showed that you diagnosed it correctly - the FL12 filter is passing through the other inputs but not the P1 Down.

You should be able to swap out the FL12 filter with the one from FL3 to fix it. Outfoxies doesn’t support 4 players and FL3 is only used for 4 players so you won’t lose any functionality.
 
Last edited:
ekorz said:
If you don’t have a heating station you can remove it with chipquik. Just be sure to have enough desolder braid to clean up the leftovers
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awesome! thanks for the tips. Hopefully i can fix this board
 
Great news! As mentioned above, the test switch is fairly common on Namco games and not an issue with your pcb. It is like that by design.
 
Awesome one to bring back!

Hey, I would remove and replace the SMD caps on this game. Someone did mine for me and did radials in their place, but I think modern SMD caps would be fine. I think on Namco these leak pretty often.

I would have someone else do it since you're new to soldering.
 
XtraSmiley said:
Awesome one to bring back!

Hey, I would remove and replace the SMD caps on this game. Someone did mine for me and did radials in their place, but I think modern SMD caps would be fine. I think on Namco these leak pretty often.

I would have someone else do it since you're new to soldering.
Click to expand...
Any recommendation on someone who does this kind of work? I’d hate to lose this game after fixing it
 
I think his back log is huge, but the man that shoots the cores...

Also, maybe @rewrite? But he hasn't even replied to me about a chassis recap so I don't know if he even does PCBs.

Someone on these forums I'm sure will, but make sure they are reputable.
 
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