that's true of the ST-V also but I'd like to think people are buying my 3D printed cases because they'd rather not trash even cheap carts.i guess it would be cheaper to get one of the cheap f3 games and decase it, than 3d printing the case.
You can buy them at Ebay for little money.So it looks like you could put the multi inside an existing Red game case. Is that what people are going to do? Similar to the CPS2? Are you guys just needing a sheet of acrylic for the bottom area to back mount the display and buttons?
Or are people wanting clear acrylic over the Multi pcb and also over the rest of the motherboard pcb?
How big is the game/Multi pcb? How big is the motherboard?
Well you dont trash the pcb by decasing it, its fully reversiblethat's true of the ST-V also but I'd like to think people are buying my 3D printed cases because they'd rather not trash even cheap carts.i guess it would be cheaper to get one of the cheap f3 games and decase it, than 3d printing the case.
that's larger than I can print.by the way, case is around 30cmx24cm (not exact, but just that you get an idea if it fits in your printer)
The Mobo + DS board are so low profile now, I'm tempted to find a nice box to put it in. I'll likely gut some old electronics (large routers, DVD players, etc) I can find at a thrift store for a couple $. Metal cases with pre-cut vent holes and easy internal mounting, on the cheap.So it looks like you could put the multi inside an existing Red game case. Is that what people are going to do? Similar to the CPS2? Are you guys just needing a sheet of acrylic for the bottom area to back mount the display and buttons?
Or are people wanting clear acrylic over the Multi pcb and also over the rest of the motherboard pcb?
How big is the game/Multi pcb? How big is the motherboard?
I do like the big red carts, but I'd also be perfectly happy with a nice acrylic bottom and top plate (similar to your Neo Geo acrylics), also with a acrylic mount for the LCD. I can provide main board measurements tonight if need be, but can't provide cart measurements.So it looks like you could put the multi inside an existing Red game case. Is that what people are going to do? Similar to the CPS2? Are you guys just needing a sheet of acrylic for the bottom area to back mount the display and buttons?
Or are people wanting clear acrylic over the Multi pcb and also over the rest of the motherboard pcb?
How big is the game/Multi pcb? How big is the motherboard?
I was planning on using a red cart shell, but I'm very interested in what a total acrylic top and bottom would look like on a bare board.I do like the big red carts, but I'd also be perfectly happy with a nice acrylic bottom and top plate
you are hardcoreAlso, for those not familiar with all the wonderful F3 titles, brace yourself for Land Maker and Puchi Carat!
-ud
Both excellent games. Carat plays surprisingly well with joysticks (unlike arkanoid), but of course arkanoid returns and puchi carat both play great with spinners. happ red board optics work great on F3.Also, for those not familiar with all the wonderful F3 titles, brace yourself for Land Maker and Puchi Carat!
-ud
PS1 actually has (what I remember to be) a 1:1 port of Puchi Carat, which supports the PS1 spinner, aka "volume controller." It appears to be the same mold as the Namco one (I think for the Namco Classics collection) and possibly the one that came with Arkanoid II on the Famicom, but different colors. I don't think the spinners work on the PS2 Taito Legends series Puchi Carat. Maybe I should make myself some dedicated spinner controllers for my F3 flash cartCarat plays surprisingly well with joysticks (unlike arkanoid), but of course arkanoid returns and puchi carat both play great with spinners. happ red board optics work great on F3.