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FS Xed and Mirko repro Monkeyball banana and harness

For Sale
November 30th update!

This week i'll be shipping out orders to those who did not order a Alberto Panel, those are still a few weeks away.

Original Monkey Ball bananas are not ready yet as well, these will be ready to ship end of next week, if you do not receive a PM from me this week thats why. I'll be sending out another update next week.

The orders are very customized and are all different, to avoid errors i'll be sending everyone a PM asking to confirm your order and address, i'll get back to you with a total including shipping then ask for payment.
Some of you have paid in full, partial or not at all. We are tracking all this carefully on our spread sheet, but still need the confirmation message to be 100% sure.

Thanks so much guys! I'll be in touch
 
I misplaced the banana mounting screws, when I ordered new ones I found the m4 button heads that hold the joystick ring down, they should get to me Monday, have to delay shipping until then unfortunately but good news all bananas come with 6 new button heads now, glad I found them. The ones that come with the used sticks are pretty crusty and rusty sometimes.
 
Getting some questions so I’ll post them here as well.

Monkey Ball JVS Harness plugged into a Sega I/O (top) and Capcom I/O (bottom)
6D5A802D-EF86-47C2-8620-E3E7E29F91A5.jpeg


Monkey Ball Gasket comparison:
Used next to New

EB408882-A063-46DC-84D2-1C97387F201A.jpeg
 
Cool!
Yeah we have about 3-4 people interested in batch 2 so it’s definitely happening.
 
That's great news :D

So I need
  1. Banana Stick (to buy when batch 2 opens)
  2. Gundam stick (purchased)
  3. Repro Panel (to buy from alberto)
  4. Op pcb (to buy from dragonminded)
  5. Relevant harnesses depending on which cab (will most likely be an NNC or Blast with a Sega JVS to JAMMA rev 2 - I've tried to purchase some 26 way JST RA connectors from the JST Shop so i'll see how that pans out)
  6. Going from @PASTBLASTER 's twitch stream, I'm going to need some 2k resistors also
Hopefully I haven't missed anything out.
 
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I'm looking for original part number and where to buy the potentiometers for an OG banana. It looks like they're fixed to a bracket. I haven't dug in to disassemble the stick yet. Is the bracket welded to the pot (i.e. a special part) or can it be disassembled apart from the bracket? (more options for off the shelf pots?)
 
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XeD said:
Options for using Gundam sticks

Option 2:
If you want close to original sensitive, don't want to modify your harness and want to use the amp. Ad a 2k resistor to pin 1 and 3 of the pot.
Click to expand...
So, is this using a resistor to bridge the contacts on the pots?

If so, I have a non-solder solution for you all:

TE makes these spark suppressors that are made to add a diode between two wires OR to bridge a resistor between two lines that are pretty clean.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/172006-1/2329165
you need the two metal spades as well:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/170284-1/2329164

I know for a fact that newark has them in stock ($.26 each, MOQ of 10). it's an expensive solution, but it makes things look VERY clean. I've been using them on the PRAS home button harnesses I've been selling as the original harnesses used them as well.

just a suggestion for people looking for a clean solution :D
 
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It's to add more resistance to the pot. It's only needed if using an op amp for the, completionist. The original stick use 5k pots where as the Gundam one use 1k pots.

With the Gundam stick wire directly to to analog port you get pretty close reading to the original MB. If you use the Gundam stick without the resistor and an opamp the game is unplayable as its way to sensitive. You have to do the mod to the pot or change the value on the opamp

Thank for the link. Will be useful if I have to make that kind of harness in the future.
 
Lemony Vengeance said:
So, is this using a resistor to bridge the contacts on the pots?

If so, I have a non-solder solution for you all:

TE makes these spark suppressors that are made to add a diode between two wires OR to bridge a resistor between two lines that are pretty clean.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/172006-1/2329165
you need the two metal spades as well:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/170284-1/2329164

I know for a fact that newark has them in stock ($.26 each, MOQ of 10). it's an expensive solution, but it makes things look VERY clean. I've been using them on the PRAS home button harnesses I've been selling as the original harnesses used them as well.

just a suggestion for people looking for a clean solution :D
Click to expand...
@Lemony Vengeance
Do you have pictures of the bridge in use?
 
XeD said:
It's to add more resistance to the pot. It's only needed if using an op amp for the, completionist. The original stick use 5k pots where as the Gundam one use 1k pots.

With the Gundam stick wire directly to to analog port you get pretty close reading to the original MB. If you use the Gundam stick without the resistor and an opamp the game is unplayable as its way to sensitive. You have to do the mod to the pot or change the value on the opamp

Thank for the link. Will be useful if I have to make that kind of harness in the future.
Click to expand...
Ah, so it goes like this:

Gundam stick -> JVS IO analog port = Good to go
Gundam stick -> Sega OP AMP PCB -> JVS IO analog port = 2K resistor between pin 1 and 3 on the pots needed.

got it :D
 
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