Monitor Test Bench Solution Help.

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    • Monitor Test Bench Solution Help.

      I have a few arcade monitors that I would like to test.

      Mostly my 19" k-7000 and 19" VGA to get ready for some cutes that are going to headed my way, along with a bunch of tube swaps.

      I have been remounting my monitors to test inside the cabs which feels dangerous and painful.

      I would like to create a "monitor testing station" That I can plug my monitor into outside of the cabs and run tests easily.

      I would like to get recommendations for a setup like this.

      I believe I will need a PSU, JAMMA loom, Isolation Transformer and controller input solution as well as RGBS connector adaptors. an all in one purchase solution would be ideal too.

      I want to sink my teeth into these monitors SOOO BAD.

      I've seen a lot of pcb test stations but very few monitor test stations. Any guidance on recommended hardware would be awesome.




    • If you're just testing monitors, running an entire JAMMA loom is far more extra than you need.

      Get a dreamcast (can output both RGB 15khz and VGA natively, far less wires, etc). Then you just need to make some adapters for the different RGB inputs on your monitors, wire up an iso and AC to the monitors and off you go.
      On the hunt for: Dinoking, Mushiking, Love & Berry, Egret 29, and an SNK SC-25.

      Shameless plug: Rewrite's Recaps - Your monitor and PSU recapping service center
    • rewrite wrote:

      If you're just testing monitors, running an entire JAMMA loom is far more extra than you need.

      Get a dreamcast (can output both RGB 15khz and VGA natively, far less wires, etc). Then you just need to make some adapters for the different RGB inputs on your monitors, wire up an iso and AC to the monitors and off you go.
      Thanks @rewrite

      Well I do have that and pardon my negligence.

      So I would not need a PSU?

      Just an Iso and PC cord?

      What about RGB impedance levels coming out of the dreamcast? are they ok stock or do I need to resist or capacitate them in any way?

      Do I need a noise filter after the ISO before the AC on the chassis?

      Should I just hack a Scart to BNC RGBs connector to the RGBS on the chassis?

      Where do I find these chassis connectors that I could tie into without hacking the one coming off the machines Jamma loom?

      Sorry for being an "askhole" but I really want to get going on these.
    • hoagtech wrote:

      So I would not need a PSU?
      Nope, monitor is powered by AC from your ISO/wall outlet, Dreamcast is powered by your wall outlet.


      hoagtech wrote:

      What about RGB impedance levels coming out of the dreamcast? are they ok stock or do I need to resist or capacitate them in any way?
      For the VGA monitors it's plug and play, just grab a DC VGA cable and go to town. For 15k RGBs, I'm not 100% sure.


      hoagtech wrote:

      Should I just hack a Scart to BNC RGBs connector to the RGBS on the chassis?
      Yep! Or if you can just a BNC cable, even better because you can skip an adapter. Then just make some *chassis-style-connector* to female BNC adapter cables.


      hoagtech wrote:

      Where do I find these chassis connectors that I could tie into without hacking the one coming off the machines Jamma loom?
      Digikey/mouser will have what you need. It'll vary from monitor to monitor, so you'll probably need a few different connectors.
      On the hunt for: Dinoking, Mushiking, Love & Berry, Egret 29, and an SNK SC-25.

      Shameless plug: Rewrite's Recaps - Your monitor and PSU recapping service center
    • That's cool post I'll follow this too. This is where I test my Mon. Nothing too fancy but I'm not that smart either haha. Most useful thing is going to be power iso and pattern generator. If older Mon I like my variac a lot. Modified with LED display for volt amp watt etc display. Shows you easily if something will run short circuit and blow fuse, power regulation issue etc. You measure b+it's full but volts are only 70 AC input and Mon us on then obviously regulator failure and at 120 will shutdown. So I have light bulb as well for testing, iso, variac, pattern generator with ringer, tube analyzers, then cm2125 output various Mon adapters. Lightbulb is good load and visual. HV probe for you to check that 2nd anode . Scope helps check sync and various things with HV probe (not big red dildo... Little scope HV probe). Desk is pretty crap but works, just MDF on shelving unit cut in half.

      Honestly crafty TPG would be too limiting for a bench in my opinion.


    • everten wrote:

      I picked up the CraftyMech TPG, but have yet to test it out. I’m doing the same as @hoagtech and don’t want to connect to a cabinet. I’ve read the TPG is not the best for calibration, but certainly good for testing.
      Yeah I hear you. It would be nice to have a playable test bench with everything else wired so I could have fun on my test bench if I wanted to.

      I already have the JAMMA TPG PCB and would love to incorporate this into a PSU JAMMA loom combo and have RGBs adapters to test monitors with.

      That price tag is a little steep actually.
    • i use a craftymech tpg to test monitors on my bench. I'm using a transformer out of an old midway cab, but you can use anything with enough VA to run your monitor. I guess also should worry about getting 120v and 100v isolated because most monitors will want one of those.

      I have considered hooking up one of those rgb to vga converter boards for use with the craftymech to test a VGA monitor, but haven't gotten that far. I usually use a naomi to test vga stuff. cps2 is a really good option because it has one of the best crosshatch and rgb bars.
      Woodies: Xevious, Pac-Man, Centipede, Dig Dug, Donkey Kong, Joust Cocktail, Space Invaders, Super Breakout, MKII, Zaxxon, Galaga, T2, Hang-On, Space Shuttle Pin, F&F Super Bikes
      Candies: 2x Aero City, New Astro City, 2x Blast City, Net City
      Other: Wacky Gator, Shoot the Moon, Sega SpongeBob, SpongeBob Jellyfishing, AC6000, AC6007
      VAPS

      roaddogamusements.com
    • hoagtech wrote:

      Thanks @TheDeath
      What is this and how does it connect to 15khz RGB sources or does it have a test pattern or image display built in?
      It will work adopting some of these methods: epanorama.net/circuits/vga2rgbs.html
      It does have test patterns, crosshatch, rgb bars and individual colors. Very basic but much cheaper than other, altho is required some extra stuff for the 15khz
    • If in the future i will need a help to get an arcade monitor, for sure Dani , you will be the first friend who will get a sign from my side ! I have alot to learn from you here :saint: . i'm about to talk with Hursit for the future to get his repro cab and i will need a monitor for this !
      Multi's: CPS2 / F3 / M72 / NA1-2 / System16 B / Namco System1 Vector Labs' 4 in 1 (Horizontal)
      Superguns : HAS v3.1
      Scalers : OSSC v1.6 / RetroTINK-2X
      Scart switch : Gscartsw V5.2
      JNX: Spitfire
      NAC: Splitfire


      My Arcade Stuff
    • KaPH33n wrote:

      i use a craftymech tpg to test monitors on my bench. I'm using a transformer out of an old midway cab, but you can use anything with enough VA to run your monitor. I guess also should worry about getting 120v and 100v isolated because most monitors will want one of those.

      I have considered hooking up one of those rgb to vga converter boards for use with the craftymech to test a VGA monitor, but haven't gotten that far. I usually use a naomi to test vga stuff. cps2 is a really good option because it has one of the best crosshatch and rgb bars.
      I got the craftymech in today and was wondering what solution to creating test cables would be.

      I would prefer my connectors be pre pro9luated to wire ends and not crimp connectors.

      I have never crimped a Molex and if I have to. I would love to know the proper crimping tool and process.

      The Manual list these recommendations for the test cable. A little help translating this would be appreciated.

      Craftymech:

      8: Test CablesThe part numbers below can be used to build your own test cable for usewith the TPG.

      The recommended length is 6’, with a pair of connectors oneach end (4pin + 2pin).

      The connector pinout is as follows, from left to right:4pin: R,G,B, Ground2pin: H,VUsing a separate 2pin connector for sync allows you to easily change syncbetween -H/-V, and +H/+V.

      Molex part numbers:

      09-50-8021 Housing, 2 pin .156” x 2

      09-50-8041 Housing, 4 pin .156” x 2

      08-50-0134 Crimp terminal .156”

    • I made my own cables... I bought multi conductor cables from digikey, but in retrospect I should have just cut up some stranded cat 5 cables.

      The thing is every monitor is going to have a different connector. I would make a couple dedicated cables for the monitors you typically work with.

      Another thing I did was I made one cable that has a 4 and 2 pin connector on one side and ic grabber hooks on the other end. So I can choose the type of sync with the 2 pin placement. The IC grabbers work with most monitors that have the fat pins to latch onto... but it doesn't really work for Nanao stuff with the tiny header connections.
      Woodies: Xevious, Pac-Man, Centipede, Dig Dug, Donkey Kong, Joust Cocktail, Space Invaders, Super Breakout, MKII, Zaxxon, Galaga, T2, Hang-On, Space Shuttle Pin, F&F Super Bikes
      Candies: 2x Aero City, New Astro City, 2x Blast City, Net City
      Other: Wacky Gator, Shoot the Moon, Sega SpongeBob, SpongeBob Jellyfishing, AC6000, AC6007
      VAPS

      roaddogamusements.com
    • Sweet. I think I can mange that. I ordered an RGBs connector for WG style to be on the safe side.

      before testing I have to resolve my Isolation transformer.

      I am hoping I wired the terminals right.

      According to this diagram the top cord was wired for the monitor plug and bottom cords go into ac 120?



      I am not using this with a PSU, Fuse or filter.

      Here is my top monitor cord position.



      Here is my quick splice connected to the bottom.



      Because it is AC and there were no instructions on positive and negative am I safe to hook up the quick splice AC in any order and the monitor connector to my monitor AC in?
    • Primary goes to the wall, secondary goes to your monitor. It technically doesn't really matter which way on the two pins.

      using a filter is a good idea, but not strictly necessary. If you are running other heavy equipment on the same AC circuit I would definitely recommend it. large appliances, table saw, drill press, that kind of stuff.

      looks like you have a 120 -> 120 iso, which is fine. some monitors might want 100v AC. You could still feed it 120 probably fine, but it's not the recommended approach. What something can tolerate vs what it's designed for is another subject.
      Woodies: Xevious, Pac-Man, Centipede, Dig Dug, Donkey Kong, Joust Cocktail, Space Invaders, Super Breakout, MKII, Zaxxon, Galaga, T2, Hang-On, Space Shuttle Pin, F&F Super Bikes
      Candies: 2x Aero City, New Astro City, 2x Blast City, Net City
      Other: Wacky Gator, Shoot the Moon, Sega SpongeBob, SpongeBob Jellyfishing, AC6000, AC6007
      VAPS

      roaddogamusements.com
    • I got the Iso transformer figured out and started testing my VGA monitors with my 360 set to 480p.

      Im waiting on connectors for the Craftymech so no 15khz yet.

      The first 19" VGA monitor looked incredible. The neck looked shorter than the K7000 19" So Im confident I can frame swap and have these compatible for @hursit 's upcoming Mini cute. I just need to figure out how to feed RGBs into my ossc from my JAMMA loom.




      The second VGA 19 had a teeny tiny bit of burn but was vibrant as well.



      Then I tested some Makvision 27's and had really bad luck.

      The image was dim on all 4 of them.. I must be doing something wrong? I haven't adjusted the RGB cut off or gain too much but did try adjusting the SCREEN pot which washed the screens out and didn't help add vibrancy.

      I don't know how to degauss these things either. 3 of the 4 Mak were brand new and one was lightly used.



      The post was edited 1 time, last by hoagtech ().