Shooting Gallery: Sega Type-II IR on a 108" front projection setup.

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    • just pure speculation on my part but it's probably because of the way most players stand with the gun near the center of the screen vertically, but with wildly different positions horizontally depending on where the player is standing.

      honestly these kinds of things are mostly just determined by testing. you try it with 4, not enough, bump it up to 6, not enough, try 10, etc.
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    • bobbydilley wrote:

      I understand that - what I mean is why is 2 points of reference at the extremes suitable for the Y but not for the X when the width of the screen isn’t a factor of 5 bigger than the height. I’d understand 3 or maybe 4 LEDs but 5 seems a lot.

      They took away 2 LEDs from the Height perspective from jpark to hotd, I wonder why they didn’t also remove an LED from the width perspective as the half height gap they’ve just removed is far larger than say removing 1 LED from the width gap.
      The system is slightly less accurate on the Y axis than the X. The reason for the reduced number on the Y is fairly obvious though. You wouldn't want to mount LEDs covering the screen. Having additional LEDs for Jurassic Park may have slightly improved accuracy at the edges but the sensor would not see them from the center where most the action happens.

      We also know, from the gesture sensor info, that photodiodes struggle with an "ambiguous zone" when picking up light from too many different LEDs at the same time. They are dumb and blind devices that can only distinguish one led from another buy lighting them individually in a circular pattern. Imagine how much harder it would be if that led pattern had to travel up and down as well as round and round. It would confuse X and Y motion or misinterpret diagonal motion.

      Breaking it down into five sets of two is smart. Systems that use just one or two LED clusters like the Guncon 3 or the cheap Chinese IR sensor PC light guns on Aliexpress, are usually fairly accurate in the center or close to the LEDs. They start to fall down and get out of alignment towards the edges. It was probably also helpful for development by giving them distinct zones that could individually calibrated to give it the best chance of crosshairs lining up with iron sights across the whole screen. It's like squeezing a bump out of a balloon or playing Whack a Mole trying to calibrate other IR guns.
    • New

      Check out this patent info for the use of very similar technology for use with some kind of more precise touchscreen / X Y positioning pointing system.


      patentswarm.com/patents/US7705835B2

      It's very poorly written and not an easy read, plus it flip flops between different methods which are not all relevant to this but... where it is relevant, it has both methodology and pseudo code describing how it works.

      It's actually fairly simple once you get through the appalling writing and unnecessary use of jargon. I had a few "ah ha moments" from the little I skimmed through. I found it because I was curious if you can hack an IR touchscreen to use a photodiode as a remote pointer instead of physically touching the screen.
    • New

      bobbydilley wrote:

      Yeah I totally get that - really makes you realise how useful being able to program is, if you ever get the time I'd deffinately reccomend learning!

      I can see that the Samco gun code I sent you is messy and incomplete, so I've made a version for you that'll hopefully do what your wanting and commented on it, its available here:

      github.com/bobbydilley/ArduinoAnalogueMouse

      You need to plug your guns into A0 and A1 and then a trigger into digital pin 5.

      This will only work for an Arduino Due or Zero or one of those Teensy devices that support HID out.
      I can't seem to make this code work. I get this error message when I click "upload":

      Arduino: 1.8.10 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino Leonardo"

      Sketch uses 6212 bytes (21%) of program storage space. Maximum is 28672 bytes.
      Global variables use 321 bytes (12%) of dynamic memory, leaving 2239 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2560 bytes.
      avrdude: butterfly_recv(): programmer is not responding
      avrdude: butterfly_recv(): programmer is not responding
      Found programmer: Id = "S"; type = p
      Software Version = V.

      Typical useless computer error message with no hint of what it means or what I'm meant to do about it. I'm starting to remember why I don't use Arduino for projects. Nothing ever works for me.

      Anyone got any idea what that error means or what I did wrong?

      The post was edited 3 times, last by Zebra ().

    • New

      bobbydilley wrote:

      This will only work for an Arduino Due or Zero

      Zebra wrote:

      I can't seem to make this code work. I get this error message when I click "upload":

      Arduino: 1.8.10 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino Leonardo"
      First, are you using an Arduino Due or Zero?
      Second are you selecting the right target board when trying to upload?
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    • New

      The only thing it says on my board is Arduino Leonardo. I'm not sure what Due or Zero means in this context or how to answer the question.

      This is what I did so far:

      I downloaded and installed the app, opened it, selected Arduino Leonardo, then I selected ATmega or something like that from another drop-down menu because it was written in tiny letters on one of the chips on the PCB. I didn't recognize any of the other options but I also tried "Arduino ISP" and any other that mentioned Arduino. Nothing made a difference.

      Then, from a choice of port 3 or port 4, I chose 3 (but later tried 4 with no change).

      Then I cut and pasted the code into the space. I clicked verify. It did that part ok. Then I clicked "upload" and I got that error message.

      I went to check in the Windows devices if it showed up and it did not. I can't even follow their suggestion of manually installing (or reinstalling) drivers because it can't see the device at all.

      So, I've done something wrong or my Arduino is broken.
    • New

      there are numerous models of Arduino, when you write an Arduino program it is typically designed for a specific model, or sub-set of models
      Due, Zero, and Leonardo are all different models of Arduino

      Due: store.arduino.cc/usa/due
      Zero: store.arduino.cc/usa/arduino-zero
      Leonardo: store.arduino.cc/usa/leonardo

      it looks like the Leonardo might support HID output, but you also need to make sure that the Arduino IDE software is set to write to a Leonardo before you can upload the program.
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    • New

      I did set it to Leonardo. The problem is that it can't seem to communicate with it. It's not visible to either Windows or the IDE software. A Leonardo can definitely function as a mouse as it's used for most of the Youtube demos.

      According to the little I read on Arduino forums, I am meant to be able to see the device in the Windows control panel / device manager but it's not in the list.

      Is there something I am meant to do to make it useable beside installing the IDE Arduino software and connecting it to the USB port? I can't see any additional drivers or instructions.
    • New

      yes you should see it in windows before you can flash. is it a genuine Arudino or a knock-off? sometimes the knock-offs need different drivers.

      either way it's likely a driver issue.
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    • New

      I'm not sure how to tell if it's an authentic Arduino. Is says Arduino Leonardo on it but the $10 watches they sell in Bangkok markets say Rolex on them but that doesn't make them genuine...

      It didn't come with any special driver instructions or any instructions of any kind.

      From a quick Google search, it sounds like it's a common problem but no obvious solution besides dropping the Arduino in the trash.
    • New

      I've figured out the problem I think. Apparently the micro-USB cable they send with it is not a data cable. It's only for "charging" even though there is no battery to be charged, so it's completely useless.

      The idea that they would deliberately ship it with a cable that does not work without even including a little note to explain this fills my heart with thoughts of murder.

      Anyway, I'll have another go to see if I can get these guns working as a mouse to make them a little more useful on a PC.