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Interested in one please. If this works for my application I'd be interesting in purchasing 4 more.
 
I would like 1 or 2 whenever available! Thank you!
 
I feel like tracking/managing preorders via a Google Form would streamline things, given that there are multiple threads across multiple forums...

Either way, looking forward to these becoming widely available!
 
Great job,
I am very interested.
How is it possible to get it.
Thank you
 
Hey Mike!

I've been using your Splitfire for a couple months now and I am loving it! GREAT job! It does exactly what I want it to. I've actually been using it externally and so far it's been working great. I have each of my cabs wired with extension harnesses that run to the coin door and I simply plug them into my harness that's wired (soldered) directly to the splitfire so that I can easily go from cabinet to cabinet and record/stream a direct feed from each game. It's worked awesome on every game I have, both JAMMA and old classics.

I've used it on the following games in my collection so far:

- Ms. Pacman
- Toki
- Arkanoid: Revenge of DOH
- Marble Madness
- Eyes
- Cheyenne
- Gaplus/Galaga 3
- Super Hang On


So clearly it appears that your device works across the board with most games, which is awesome! However, I've run into a strange issue with my Nintendo VS cabinet. I have a Nintendo VS Dual System (aka "Red Tent"). One side is running VS Super Mario Bros, and the other is running VS Dr. Mario. Both games pass through the Splitfire just fine with absolutely no issues on the cabinet arcade monitors. But the signal that runs out of the Splitfire DB15 port appears weak. I know that the colors are inverted, which I correct with my Framemeister, but they still appear too weak and washed out. The image is very faint. If I play with the gain knob on the Splitfire and turn it very quickly, I'll get a perfect picture for a fraction of a second, but that's it. The same thing happens if I unplug and plug the power back in.

Any thoughts? Is there something I'm missing here? Do I need additional power somewhere? Right now, I'm running 5V into the Splitfire via 5V/4A power adapter.

Thanks again and great work!

-Jim
 
My guess is that, by giving inverted video to your capture hardware, the white (inverted black) signal is present even in the front porch of a video line, which causes the capture hardware to clamp to this value, washing out the rest of the line. If you can disable blanking on your hardware, then that would do it. Otherwise, I'd invert the the signal before giving it t othe splitfire.

Does this behavior happen if you feed the inverted video to your capture hardware directly?
 
My guess is that, by giving inverted video to your capture hardware, the white (inverted black) signal is present even in the front porch of a video line, which causes the capture hardware to clamp to this value, washing out the rest of the line. If you can disable blanking on your hardware, then that would do it. Otherwise, I'd invert the the signal before giving it t othe splitfire.

Does this behavior happen if you feed the inverted video to your capture hardware directly?
Interesting. I'm using an Elgato HD60 Pro card for my capture so I'm not sure if there's a way (or how) to disable blanking. Any ideas? I'm also not sure what the best way would be the best way to invert the signal before it reaches the Splitfire - it would need to be inverted again on the way out of the splitfire so that it looked correct on the original arcade monitor. I'll have to think about that as an option. I will say that I've inverted the signal via the Framemeister so that it feeds a normal non-inverted signal to the capture card. The results were the same.

I haven't tried bypassing the Splitfire yet, but I can try that tonight. Currently my chain has been: Nintendo video signal (inverted) > Splitfire > OSSC (or Framemeister) > Elgato capture card.

Thanks for the response!
 
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The framemeister itself is a capture device (even used as a scaler), so I expect it also has its own clamping behavior. I am surprised that you are using the splitfire as a passthrough device here, as the Nintendo cabinets are not JAMMA.
 
I used two of these in a tournament this last weekend and they worked flawlessly. Thanks again; I couldn't recommend more.
 
The framemeister itself is a capture device (even used as a scaler), so I expect it also has its own clamping behavior. I am surprised that you are using the splitfire as a passthrough device here, as the Nintendo cabinets are not JAMMA.
Ah, I gotcha.

I use the Splitfire outside of the cabinet. I cut a JAMMA extender in half and wired the video/audio signal directly to the Splitfire with a custom harness I made. I made the same style custom harness for all of my cabinets that extends up to the coin door. I simply open the coin door, unplug the molex on the video harness, then plug the Splitfire into one molex to feed the video input and then plug the output from the Splitfire into the other molex to feed the signal back to the monitor. This way I can easily move from cabinet to cabinet. Half of my games are not JAMMA and it's worked perfectly on every one (except this Nintendo cabinet), but hopefully that'll be resolved. I'm planning on making a video of my setup once I figure out this Nintendo issue.
 
I used two of these in a tournament this last weekend and they worked flawlessly. Thanks again; I couldn't recommend more.
If that's what was powering the ST and Third Strike streams then I agree!

Free Play looked awesome. Saw some of my friends' pinballs in the collection too (Total Nuclear Annihilation and America's Most Haunted).
 
I used two of these in a tournament this last weekend and they worked flawlessly. Thanks again; I couldn't recommend more.
If that's what was powering the ST and Third Strike streams then I agree!
Free Play looked awesome. Saw some of my friends' pinballs in the collection too (Total Nuclear Annihilation and America's Most Haunted).
Someone link me to the stream? Also what is there a white list of tested capture cards?
 
My guess is that, by giving inverted video to your capture hardware, the white (inverted black) signal is present even in the front porch of a video line, which causes the capture hardware to clamp to this value, washing out the rest of the line. If you can disable blanking on your hardware, then that would do it. Otherwise, I'd invert the the signal before giving it t othe splitfire.

Does this behavior happen if you feed the inverted video to your capture hardware directly?
Inverting the signal before bringing it into the Splitfire seems to have done the trick. I still have some settings I need to tweak on the OSSC, but progress was made nonetheless. Thanks for the help, Mike!

20190420_012654
 
I used two of these in a tournament this last weekend and they worked flawlessly. Thanks again; I couldn't recommend more.
If that's what was powering the ST and Third Strike streams then I agree!
Free Play looked awesome. Saw some of my friends' pinballs in the collection too (Total Nuclear Annihilation and America's Most Haunted).
Thanks; the event was a blast and I thought everything turned out pretty well. Not that we're using these cards, obviously, but in 3 weeks we'll be streaming a pinball tournament so hopefully that'll work out as well.

Back on topic, we also used the Splitfire for UMK3 and KoF11. Midway games don't play terribly nice with video splitting from other jamma splitters that I've used; it comes in too dark after a split and makes for a monitor that needs to be brightened and captured video on the stream setup itself that needs adjustment. These boards not only didn't darken the image on the cabinet itself (meaning I don't have to actually do a bunch of manual adjustments to the monitor for the sake of the players in the tournament) but the video gain knob allowed me to balance out the video quickly and easily.

I intend to use these to stream a variety of games both I will post here if I find any problems but I don't expect any after what I've seen so far.


Also what is there a white list of tested capture cards?
I haven't seen one yet but I can confirm they work nicely with our OSSCs. I don't think that it makes much of a difference at that point, but I use a Magewell internal capture card after that and have had zero issues capturing the video out from the Splitfire after being upscaled via the OSSC.
 
These boards not only didn't darken the image on the cabinet itself (meaning I don't have to actually do a bunch of manual adjustments to the monitor for the sake of the players in the tournament) but the video gain knob allowed me to balance out the video quickly and easily.
This is exactly the reason I was attracted to these devices. Passively splitting any arcade video signal results in a voltage drop that ultimately will result in a dim picture on the arcade monitor. On more finicky games, such as non-jamma classics, I've seen instances where the monitor is not only dim, but the colors are off and the picture is unstable. I've been able to get around these issues by adding an in-line amplifier to the signal going back to the monitor, but it's a mess of wiring.

For the last few months, I've been working on creating a modular, portable rig that will allow me to easily go from each of my arcade cabinets, plug in my rig and be able to record/stream a direct feed while playing on my arcade cabinet. The Splitfire has been perfect for the job and I've been able to use it with every game I've thrown at it. (Granted some games have presented challenges, but nothing I haven't been able to resolve. *knock on wood*)

Since I want my setup to be portable, I actually don't use the Splitfire inside the cabinet as it was intended. Instead, I hacked up a JAMMA extension harness, crimped some molex connectors and made some custom harnesses so that I can simply open a coin door, and plug the Splitfire in & go. It's basically plug and play as I have fitted every one of my cabinets with extension harnesses that run up to the coin doors.


I plan on making a video of my setup once I'm finished with my Red Tent, but here's a picture of my Splitfire...

modded-splitfire


Here's my main row of games that I've used the Splitfire on thus far...


games
 
Super Hang On!!! I’ve been going really hard on my SHO cab, and am going to be setting up capture soon. It’s the main motivation to make rev 2 of the splitfire.
 
Super Hang On!!! I’ve been going really hard on my SHO cab, and am going to be setting up capture soon. It’s the main motivation to make rev 2 of the splitfire.
I'm intrigued to see what you come up with for the rev 2! I'll be curious to see what the differences/improvements are. Keep me posted - I'll probably want one lol!


20190408_231258
 
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