Pinned The Definitive Guide to Fixing Your CPS2 Multi Kit

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    • The Definitive Guide to Fixing Your CPS2 Multi Kit

      Congratulations on your purchase of a Darksoft CPS2 multi kit! - this is a great kit with some of the best games ever made. But now that your kit has been delivered, you have unpacked and installed it, booted it up and it's not working. Where do you go from here? This guide is a compilation of the other troubleshooting guide written by @Mitsurugi-w as well as the key writing firmware thread which details the installation of the key writing wires and information given to others to fix the problems with their kits when they won't fire up.

      I will not be including the full installation instructions as @Mitsurugi-w has posted these many times and in many different forms. I have however reproduced the key writing wires hopefully in a way that people find less confusing.

      The installation instructions are available in PDF form here:

      mediafire.com/file/obv4fflp48f…_Multi_Boot_v3.2.pdf/file

      Before we begin:

      This guide assumes that the donor board you are using was working prior to being used for the multi kit

      Key writing wires

      Update: There have been several recent incidents where people have destroyed pads on their multi kit, particularly the clock pad when soldering the key writing wires. Please remember that these are OPTIONAL and the kit will still function without these installed.

      If you do not have experience with a soldering iron and don't have a reasonable temperature controlled iron, please don't attempt the installation. Please ask for help and see if someone can do it for you if you must have them installed, or run the decrypted set.

      It is VERY difficult to repair the kit if you damage the pads.

      These seem to be a big problem especially on the rev 6-7 boards with the CN9 header. The installation guide is a little bit confusing so to make it easier for the purpose of this guide the pins on the multi kit will be referred to as pad #1 to #4 going from top to bottom. I have shamelessly stolen this picture from the other thread 8o

      As per the picture, going from top to bottom:
      Clock - Pad 1
      Data - Pad 2
      SETUP2 - Pad 3
      SETUP1 - Pad 4

      SWD5 is not used for key writing and if you have the reset wire connected there currently, it should be removed prior to the key writing wires being installed

      Make sure you have updated your firmware if you have not purchased your multi kit with the latest firmware installed

      Note 1: Before you attempt to solder these wires, practice soldering on a scrap board first. Use good quality solder and a temperature controlled iron at a reasonable temperature (200-250C maximum). You WILL destroy the pads if you use too much heat and it is extremely difficult to repair if you lose a pad.

      Note 2: Tin your wires with solder and then solder the tinned wire to the pad. This will give you the cleanest solder joint and has the lowest risk of losing a pad.



      This is the order these need to be connected to on the CN9 header

      The CN9 header is a 6 pin JST NH connector. Pins 1 and 6 are not used.

      Here is a picture of the CN9 connector. Pin 1 is on the left, pin 6 on the right in this image. Pay attention to your orientation and note that pins 1 and 6 are silkscreened.



      Pad #2 of Multi kit to Pin 2 of CN9
      Pad #4 of Multi kit to Pin 3 of CN9
      Pad #1 of Multi kit to Pin 4 of CN9
      Pad #3 of Multi kit to Pin 5 of CN9

      Or to put it another way

      Data - CN9 #2
      Setup1 - CN9 #3
      Clock - CN9 #4
      Setup2 - CN9 #5

      PAL jumper wire
      You need to REMOVE THE LEG of the PAL from the socket and solder to that, not to the pin of the socket on the bottom of the board. Soldering to the socket pin on the bottom of the board will not work correctly. This is detailed in the guide but people have posted in threads with related issues so I thought I would mention it again.

      Post installation issues:

      I have a solid colour screen (white)
      Your kit is not reading the main program ROMs at all. Check the following:

      - Broken pins on the multi kit
      - Interconnect board not installed the correct way
      - Broken sockets on your B board
      - SD card is bad

      I have a solid colour screen (blue, green etc)
      Your kit is attempting to run encrypted code on a suicided board or is not able to read all main program ROMs. Check the following:

      - EXC5 may need to be temporarily shorted to remove keys that have not been flushed
      - Broken pins on multi kit
      - Interconnect board not installed the correct way
      - Key writing wires are not installed correctly
      - Correct firmware has not been installed onto multi kit
      - Correct ROM pack is not installed on the SD card
      - SD card is bad
      - Mac only: You have not run dot_clean to remove the indexing files MacOS creates on all storage devices (this is done by running the following command in a Terminal: dot_clean /Volumes/SDCardnamehere )

      I have a black screen
      Your kit is not able to boot after flashing the encryption keys.

      - Key writing wires are installed incorrectly
      - Key writing wires have been shorted to another component on the multi kit
      - Key writing wire pad has been damaged during installation
      - Incorrect firmware is loaded onto the multi kit
      - Interconnect board is not installed correctly

      I have jailbars/sprite glitches etc.

      - Kit has broken pins
      - B board has damaged sockets
      - Kit is not making good contact
      - A and B board are not making good contact

      Try reseating the A and B boards and using the clips to hold them together. If you have not yet installed your B board into the shell, do this first. Often the A and B will make much better contact with the shells and clips installed

      I have sound issues
      You have not installed the jumper wire for the F/G PAL (Rev 3/4) or F PAL (Rev 5/6/7) or you have installed it incorrectly. Read the installation guide again and as above the leg MUST be removed from the socket.

      I have damaged pins/lost a pad/none of this is helping me

      If none of these fixes has worked for you, please start a thread and detail exactly what you have done so that we can try to work through it. Should your kit require repair, please make sure you have set your location in your profile so we know where you are to help you.

      The following people can help if you have broken pins and may be able to help out with other issues as well such as lost pads (depending on which pad has been lost) - do NOT PM these people until you have made a thread and tried to fix the issue unless you have a broken pin or lost a pad etc. which can't otherwise be fixed.

      US/Canada - @Mitsurugi-w
      Europe - @CPZ - SAVEYOURGAMES
      Australia/NZ - @xodaraP

      Note 1: Damaged pins from shipping will be provided and/or replaced for free. If pins are damaged during installation there will be a small fee for replacement

      Note 2: Key writing wires are soldered at your own risk. It is recommended to only be completed by users confident with a soldering iron. As such, if you damage the board or destroy a pad as a result your board may not be able to be repaired. If it is repairable, the repair will be charged. This will also void your warranty.

      You suck and I hate you
      :love:

      I want to tell everyone how much I love my multi and show it and my setup off
      Cool! We love that here and if you want to help other users to try and fix their issues and it is something you came across while doing your own installation, please do!

      The post was edited 5 times, last by xodaraP ().

    • Thanks for writing this, should help a lot of people out.

      Re CN9, on my B board pin 1 is labelled, I imagine it is on all rev B boards, use this to identify pin 1 and work out the other pin numbers from there. Seems too obvious to mention but I do recall at least one case where a user had gotten the pins reversed, assuming pin 6 was pin 1.
    • xodaraP wrote:

      Congratulations on your purchase of a Darksoft CPS2 multi kit! - this is a great kit with some of the best games ever made. But now that your kit has been delivered, you have unpacked and installed it, booted it up and it's not working. Where do you go from here? This guide is a compilation of the other troubleshooting guide written by @Mitsurugi-w as well as the key writing firmware thread which details the installation of the key writing wires and information given to others to fix the problems with their kits when they won't fire up.

      I will not be including the full installation instructions as @Mitsurugi-w has posted these many times and in many different forms. I have however reproduced the key writing wires hopefully in a way that people find less confusing.

      The installation instructions are available in PDF form here:

      mediafire.com/file/hpgh307otl2…_CPS2_Multi_Boot_v3.1.pdf

      Before we begin:

      This guide assumes that the donor board you are using was working prior to being used for the multi kit

      Key writing wires
      These seem to be a big problem especially on the rev 6-7 boards with the CN9 header. The installation guide is a little bit confusing so to make it easier for the purpose of this guide the pins on the multi kit will be referred to as pad #1 to #4 going from top to bottom. I have shamelessly stolen this picture from the other thread 8o

      As per the picture, going from top to bottom:
      Clock - Pad 1
      Data - Pad 2
      SETUP2 - Pad 3
      SETUP1 - Pad 4

      SWD5 is not used for key writing and if you have the reset wire connected there currently, it should be removed prior to the key writing wires being installed

      Make sure you have updated your firmware if you have not purchased your multi kit with the latest firmware installed

      Note 1: Before you attempt to solder these wires, practice soldering on a scrap board first. Use good quality solder and a temperature controlled iron at a reasonable temperature (200-250C maximum). You WILL destroy the pads if you use too much heat and it is extremely difficult to repair if you lose a pad.

      Note 2: Tin your wires with solder and then solder the tinned wire to the pad. This will give you the cleanest solder joint and has the lowest risk of losing a pad.



      This is the order these need to be connected to on the CN9 header

      The CN9 header is a 6 pin JST NH connector. Pins 1 and 6 are not used.

      Here is a picture of the CN9 connector. Pin 1 is on the left, pin 6 on the right in this image. Pay attention to your orientation and note that pins 1 and 6 are silkscreened.



      Pad #2 of Multi kit to Pin 2 of CN9
      Pad #4 of Multi kit to Pin 3 of CN9
      Pad #1 of Multi kit to Pin 4 of CN9
      Pad #3 of Multi kit to Pin 5 of CN9

      Or to put it another way

      Data - CN9 #2
      Setup1 - CN9 #3
      Clock - CN9 #4
      Setup2 - CN9 #5

      PAL jumper wire
      You need to REMOVE THE LEG of the PAL from the socket and solder to that, not to the pin of the socket on the bottom of the board. Soldering to the socket pin on the bottom of the board will not work correctly. This is detailed in the guide but people have posted in threads with related issues so I thought I would mention it again.

      Post installation issues:

      I have a solid colour screen (white)
      Your kit is not reading the main program ROMs at all. Check the following:

      - Jumpers are not set correctly
      - Broken pins on the multi kit
      - Interconnect board not installed the correct way
      - Broken sockets on your B board
      - SD card is bad

      I have a solid colour screen (blue, green etc)
      Your kit is attempting to run encrypted code on a suicided board or is not able to read all main program ROMs. Check the following:

      - EXC5 may need to be temporarily shorted to remove keys that have not been flushed
      - Jumpers not set correctly
      - Broken pins on multi kit
      - Interconnect board not installed the correct way
      - Key writing wires are not installed correctly
      - Correct firmware has not been installed onto multi kit
      - Correct ROM pack is not installed on the SD card
      - SD card is bad
      - Mac only: You have not run dot_clean to remove the indexing files MacOS creates on all storage devices (this is done by running the following command in a Terminal: dot_clean /Volumes/SDCardnamehere )

      I have a black screen
      Your kit is not able to boot after flashing the encryption keys.

      - Key writing wires are installed incorrectly
      - Key writing wires have been shorted to another component on the multi kit
      - Key writing wire pad has been damaged during installation
      - Incorrect firmware is loaded onto the multi kit
      - Interconnect board is not installed correctly

      I have jailbars/sprite glitches etc.

      - Kit has broken pins
      - B board has damaged sockets
      - Kit is not making good contact
      - A and B board are not making good contact

      Try reseating the A and B boards and using the clips to hold them together. If you have not yet installed your B board into the shell, do this first. Often the A and B will make much better contact with the shells and clips installed

      I have sound issues
      You have not installed the jumper wire for the F/G PAL (Rev 3/4) or F PAL (Rev 5/6/7) or you have installed it incorrectly. Read the installation guide again and as above the leg MUST be removed from the socket.

      I have damaged pins/lost a pad/none of this is helping me

      If none of these fixes has worked for you, please start a thread and detail exactly what you have done so that we can try to work through it. Should your kit require repair, please make sure you have set your location in your profile so we know where you are to help you.

      The following people can help if you have broken pins and may be able to help out with other issues as well such as lost pads (depending on which pad has been lost) - do NOT PM these people until you have made a thread and tried to fix the issue unless you have a broken pin or lost a pad etc. which can't otherwise be fixed.

      US/Canada - @Mitsurugi-w
      Europe - @CPZ - SAVEYOURGAMES
      Australia/NZ - @xodaraP

      You suck and I hate you
      :love:

      I want to tell everyone how much I love my multi and show it and my setup off
      Cool! We love that here and if you want to help other users to try and fix their issues and it is something you came across while doing your own installation, please do!
      Thank you for this definitive guide, I hope we all can appreciate the level of detail that was put into this. :D
    • Nice guide. I stupidly got the CN9 pins the wrong way around, it's good to note that they kind of go right to left instead of left to right :) looking at the OP post this makes it clearer so you can get it right the first time :)

      On soldering - i'm a noob and i did tin my wires but i also put flux on the pad, so when i put the wire on the pad and heated it the solder just flowed off the wire completely and onto the pad so then i was struggling to get the wire into the solder in a neat way that was now on the pad, got it eventually but yeah not great i need practice. I also had a crappy battery powered soldering iron which worked but only in short bursts (which might of actually saved me from lifting a pad because it never got hot enough to do that).
    • That’s actually perfect - but it sounds like you heated for a bit too long - you only need to heat long enough to flow the solder then remove heat, it’s very quick

      I have flux in my solder so I didn’t mention adding flux to the pad

      Sounds like you need a better soldering iron as well though. You can get a temperature controlled iron cheap if you rarely use it, or an FX-888 or similar if you’ll use it often
    • I always add solder to the pad first then tin the wire. DO NOT pull in the wire even a little bit until the pcb has cooled down. While it is hot it is easy to pull the pad off.

      Also want to add to the OP that if the pins broke in shipping they will be replaced for free but if you break them then there will be a small fee. Also soldering the key-writing wires is AT YOUR OWN RISK. If you rip a pad off then there will be a repair fee and it will probably void your warranty.
    • Mitsurugi-w wrote:

      I always add solder to the pad first then tin the wire. DO NOT pull in the wire even a little bit until the pcb has cooled down. While it is hot it is easy to pull the pad off.

      Also want to add to the OP that if the pins broke in shipping they will be replaced for free but if you break them then there will be a small fee. Also soldering the key-writing wires is AT YOUR OWN RISK. If you rip a pad off then there will be a repair fee and it will probably void your warranty.

      I’ll add it in

      Edit: Changes made

      The post was edited 1 time, last by xodaraP ().

    • I just fired up my kit and I'm getting a black screen (The controller is working correctly displaying flashing rom and have fun). I'm trying to use the old roms because I'm not worried about the encrypted authenticity. Is there something that I need to do different from people using the key writing method (4 soldered wires)?

      Thanks,
      Ash
    • No, you just need to make sure you're running the decrypted set with the blank key files (they're not blank as in nothing, they're blank as in all 0s)

      Other than that you just install the multi kit as normal and away you go

      You may also need to short the EXC5 cap if you've only just removed the battery to completely flush the keys out
    • If you are using ONLY decrypted roms then you do not need key files. If you have key files but do not have the wires soldered it won't write the key regardless. The key file for a decrypted game won't be technically blank but I believe it should be all FFs? If you are using the old decrypted romset rollup pack there should be no key files in there.
    • If you have a battery installed in many cases you need to short EXC5 to make sure any remaining keys are gone. Actually the best you could do would be to totally remove it.
      * Arcade-projects, the site where you get the most of your arcade games.
      * If you want Drama go to Neo-Geo forum ---Darksoft