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Capcom Q-Sound amp help?

Is anyone good with wood?
Q-Sound Boombox.jpg
 
This UA-1450 PSU is an AC 13.5v that mean that you shoud get about 9v otherwise the capcom kitamuara one is 18vAC and supply a range from 12v to 13.9v at 2.5A minimum (this because the AC is not the same of DC). So your transformer/psu may should not work. I do not want create confusion but these amp need 12-13v simmetrical, 2.5amp minimum that's all.
 
Oh, is there some math I'm missing? I tried an 18V AC Amp and it put out 18V, which was too high. Wouldn't the UA-1450 (5A 13.5V) give about 13.5V with such a low draw?
 
But have you tested your 13.v ac psu? and is it working with the amp?
 
No, I've been away from the US for the last two years and have it boxed up and waiting.
 
I actually got my Q-sound to work. Now I'm not sure if it's working 100% cause I had a MVS-1FS board hooked up and sound works through speakers when connected to the mono out port, when I connected it to the stereo port no sound came out. I tested with a CPS2 board and sound came out with mono as well. I will test when I get home today on the stereo out from the CPS2. I found out what was wrong it was wiring :) followed original wiring from manual and all is well.

@hardyhell - Q sound is just an amp. If you just want stereo and something to power your speakers I would use a newer model amp instead of paying 140 Euros unless it's something you just want for nostalgia.

I know this AMP works well and is very reasonable. - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lepai-LP-2...785789&hash=item361e928c33:g:hnkAAOSw9EZZiv7o
 
and another problem ... I wonder what happens if I use either the q oder the other amp here with a stereo mvs. It it god damed loud anyway when I directly go to the NAC speakers from the mvs board. The amp will increase this even more I guess.
Right?
 
I have 3 Q-sound amps in 3 Big Blue cabs. At one point in time, my 3rd Big Blue cab used a cheap TDA7297 amp until I was able to acquire a 3rd Q-sound amp PCB. During the time when I was using the TDA7297 amp, there was little difference at playing level volume. The only time when you could notice an appreciable difference in sound quality is during some attract mode screens. Otherwise, in-game sounds are subdued because the players are 3ft away from the speakers. Furthermore, in a home environment and not in an arcade operation, there is no need to turn up the volume to drown out the ambient sound of arcade machines nearby. The Q-sound amp is a very powerful amp, true. But understand that an amp alone is not going to get you superior audio. Particularly if you are using the speakers that can fit in an Astro City's speaker enclosure. It is like putting a a turbo charger on a 4-cylinder car.

So like @Solmin says, unless you are doing it for purity/preservation/restoration, which is why I obtained a 3rd Q-sound amp, there is no need to get setup with a Q-sound amp. What you are trying to achieve is stereo sound, an improvement over mono. Hence a modern day 12volt amp will work just fine.
 
acblunden2 said:
I have 3 Q-sound amps in 3 Big Blue cabs. At one point in time, my 3rd Big Blue cab used a cheap TDA7297 amp until I was able to acquire a 3rd Q-sound amp PCB. During the time when I was using the TDA7297 amp, there was little difference at playing level volume. The only time when you could notice an appreciable difference in sound quality is during some attract mode screens. Otherwise, in-game sounds are subdued because the players are 3ft away from the speakers. Furthermore, in a home environment and not in an arcade operation, there is no need to turn up the volume to drown out the ambient sound of arcade machines nearby. The Q-sound amp is a very powerful amp, true. But understand that an amp alone is not going to get you superior audio. Particularly if you are using the speakers that can fit in an Astro City's speaker enclosure. It is like putting a a turbo charger on a 4-cylinder car.

So like @Solmin says, unless you are doing it for purity/preservation/restoration, which is why I obtained a 3rd Q-sound amp, there is no need to get setup with a Q-sound amp. What you are trying to achieve is stereo sound, an improvement over mono. Hence a modern day 12volt amp will work just fine.
Click to expand...
I really like that 5 dollar amp you had listed earlier. :)
 
Yeap, me too. Being a former MAME/HyperSpin guy coming to the real arcade side of the hobby 3 years ago, the TDAxxxx amp is the only one I would use for my MAME builds. That amp is still something I use for arcade cabs. I actually have one in my G1 (non-Q-Sound) Capcom Big Blue. And as a testament on its prowess, even Egret II fellas recommend using it to setup stereo in that cab. Anyone in the know recognizes the Egret II as one of the most, if not the most, coveted 15khz Candy Cab of all. So if it is good enough for Egret II owners, it is good enough for Astro City owners.
 
Hey guys.

Thank you very much for the answers @Solmin and @acblunden2

So you two say there is no ... like simulated surround feeling that is added by the Q amp.

DollaTek DC 9-15V TDA7297 Stereo-Verstärker Audio-Verstärker 15W + 15W Dual Channel LED-Anzeige Heatsink Potentiometerschraube https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07DJ3CRYT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YK4FCbG82PHXN

Found this one on amazon. So this is your recommended one. Right @acblunden2 ?

And again the question about amp in general. Problem still is that mvs and seibu comes out very loud when connected to the speakers directly. I tested a high low converter in between but this makes the sound very very silent.
The question is now if the amp will also do the job of the high low converter and lower the level in general to a acceptable sound level.
Right now there is this very annoying zap sound when turning on the cab and also clearly hearable sound noise in silent moments.

Thanks guys.
 
The amp adds no benefit to the Q-Sound effect, the processing is all done on the CPS2 hardware itself.

Re MVS, it's already outputting an amplified signal so you don't want to run it through a second amp. If you do, you'll want to use a line level converter.
 
Frank_fjs said:
The amp adds no benefit to the Q-Sound effect, the processing is all done on the CPS2 hardware itself.

Re MVS, it's already outputting an amplified signal so you don't want to run it through a second amp. If you do, you'll want to use a line level converter.
Click to expand...
Thank you very much. I really wonder how this stereo sound did work with seibu. And mvs because yes I saw the very same effect that it’s already too damned loud. Adding the line level converter and a amp seems like a first amp down and then up silly idea. But right now that is the only way I see here.
 
@hardyhell, that is the amp. They revise it frequently with new IC's. But same basic amp built around a family of the same IC's. Make sure you have on hand PCB feet to be able to mount it. You'll want to feed line level sound to any amp otherwise, you can easily blow your speakers and ear drums. Use a line output/level convertor to do that. Something like this for starters and you can work your way up from here.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-V...put+converter&qid=1551871354&s=gateway&sr=8-4
 
acblunden2 said:
@hardyhell, that is the amp. They revise it frequently with new IC's. But same basic amp built around a family of the same IC's. Make sure you have on hand PCB feet to be able to mount it. You'll want to feed line level sound to any amp otherwise, you can easily blow your speakers and ear drums. Use a line output/level convertor to do that. Something like this for starters and you can work your way up from here.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-V...put+converter&qid=1551871354&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Click to expand...
I have this one

Sinuslive HL-406 High-Low-Level-Converter https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0000WR4PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OW7FCb99N4BEV

So you say I need to make that device chain
Mvs - high low - amp - speakers
 
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