Culpability is on the consumer here, iMO. Argue that the repair shop is at fault all you want. But what can't be argued is that the mom and pop's electronics repair shop the OP took his chassis to can fix arcade equipment. Keep up the argument and that will lead down a dead end. Not going to help the OP.Even worse on the electronic repair shop's part is that they had the entire monitor, not just the chassis. They KNEW it wasn't working when they handed it back.
Take the "L" here. You didn't get what you wanted but you're not absolved of culpability here and you know it. You might be able to get your money back here at a loss to the repair guy. Or you might not, at a loss to you. What you won't get in further dealings with this repair shop is your monitor fixed. Take the "L", accept your fault in it, and move on.I knew petitioning the electronics repair man that he did not specialize in CRT but he claimed he had done it in the 80's. He's an old Japanese man in a very small business suite.
Yeah, see. This is why I feel you are at fault. You petitioned someone who repairs vacuums and hair dryers to replace parts on an arcade monitor.I was hoping his soldering skills and the kits I ordered were gonna be good enough to get my monitor in working condition. But I ordered the wrong kits and asked him to install it. He also told me he had no way of testing it.
Slow your roll. Be informed. Accept the mistakes you made here. Learn from them. Keep to the mission. Move on.
Yeah, no. Move on.He did say he would call me with a recommendation from one of his friends next Monday.
Nope. Not exactly. Installation of wrong parts might have damaged something else. Reinstalling the flyback might not do anything at this point. And those pots do not look correct to me either.I think the best bet would be having him install my old flyback from what I've gathered from your guy's advice.
Here is your best bet:
- Firstly, learn to discharge your monitor so that you can remove the chassis and have some options available to you. I feel since you didn't bother to learn how to do that, you boxed yourself into having to take the monitor into a mom and pops repair shop and that is how you are in the situation you are in now.
- Go to Harbor Freight and buy long flat head screw driver, some electrical tape, alligator clips. Should cost you around $10 in total
- Fashion your own discharge tool
- Watch this video at least 3x and discharge your monitor
- Remember, any time you get near the anode cap, discharge your monitor again
- Now that you monitor is discharged, remove it from the frame. I left you instructions on how to do this earlier.
- Now you have options.
- Send it into a real professional arcade monitor specialist for repair
- Buy a rebuilt/overhauled one
- Don't buy any from eBay as they may be pulled from old machines that are on their last legs of functionality
- Take it back into that mom and pops repair shop to ask that your old flyback is put back in, and keep your fingers crossed that nothing else is damaged
- Learn to fix it yourself
You have a K7000. Otherwise known as a Wells Gardner K7000.Is my monitor an K7000A? or just K7000?
Sorry for the confusion. I must have missed some of your original pics when on mobile accessing this site. The good news is the flyback is readily available for Wells Gardner K7000's.