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Sega Aero & Goldfish Catcher ATM

acblunden2 said:
Where are you located @hoagtech? Wondering if pricing is going to be different in my region.
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It should say in my avatar: Bellingham WA 98225.

I have been working with this company for about 9 years.

They usually charge per finishing rack LRG=$800. They used x3 LRG for my project and agreed to wave the sandblasting fee which was most of the work and only charged me for x2.

You could probably get a similar deal by portraying your interests. People seem to help the arcade quest outside their normal industry
 
8bitforlife said:
should I use this same color on my madonna?
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Yes. But the white vs grey coat will take away from your white point of your CRT.

Your monitor looked very colorful in the ad so I wouldn’t be too worried.

You may need convergence but the image looked vivid to me.
 
Small update:

I cleaned the screws going into the topper and finished installing the marquee holder and topper backplate.

Does anyone know where I can find new black security screws? Some didn’t clean up too well.




I was missing a speaker cover so I couldn’t finish the 4th topper. I called the PC and they found it.





I’m pretty scared of assembling the wiring and calibrating the monitors moving forward.
 
Good screws on front, bad ones on the back?
Are you going to pick up toppers for everything?
 
That was my fallback plan. I was really hoping for a source of the new black screws both for the topper and back plate and the larger ones for the screen cover.

If anyone knows what kind they are or where to buy I would love to hear.
nam9 said:
Good screws on front, bad ones on the back?
Are you going to pick up toppers for everything?
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@Kavas

This how the chrome turned out. You can see a little orange peel on the foot rests if you look close but I like them.



I liked how the yen covers turned out.



I installed the handles.




Installed the toppers.



I ran into a problem with the powder coating. It looks like they smothered my hinge threads for the monitor covers. Is there any deadly liquid I could buy from a hardware store to remove powder coat from threads? I cant remove the threads either because they're welded to the frame so I would have to apply it in place. Unfortunately they did this to all 4 cabs.

 
Solmin said:
Nice work there @hoagtech!

It's nice to see the love for the old stuff!

One day if I get out of collecting I'd like to sell to someone who has that level of appreciation.

:)
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Solmin, brother, I'm just 4 hrs north of you. ;) I haven't gotten to powder coating yet, cause I got into a very expensive pinball habit...but it's on the list. Lol.

@hoagtech - I would say a wire wheel on a drill, run slowly, so that you don't actually eat the threads, but just brush the powder coating off....or if you can get the nuts to start at all, drive them with a drill and socket, slowly, and the nut will scrape off the powdercoat as its driven down the bolt. Once you get it driven the first time, simply put it on and take it off a few times, and you should be fine.

I use a wire wheel on a bench grinder to do my control panels, when they need to be stripped, but use a drill on the lowest speed/torque if i need to wire wheel the screw threads....and do that with a cautious eye and gentle touch.

I would assume a wire/brass brush would work as well, and will be more delicate, and more tedious....
 
bagheera369 said:
drive them with a drill and socket, slowly, and the nut will scrape off the powdercoat as its driven down the bolt. Once you get it driven the first time, simply put it on and take it off a few times, and you should be fine.
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This is what I was going to suggest. But I'd do it with a socket wrench because I'm overly cautious, ha.
 
You can use Paint Stripper. Best is to paint tape to tape around the surface that you dont want paint to be stripped off.
Just put paint stripper on the thread, wait for 5 mins and using the cotton bud to take off the paint slowly. I've done it on my Nintendo Red tent, they also accidentally powder coat some part as well


hoagtech said:
@Kavas

This how the chrome turned out. You can see a little orange peel on the foot rests if you look close but I like them.



I liked how the yen covers turned out.



I installed the handles.




Installed the toppers.



I ran into a problem with the powder coating. It looks like they smothered my hinge threads for the monitor covers. Is there any deadly liquid I could buy from a hardware store to remove powder coat from threads? I cant remove the threads either because they're welded to the frame so I would have to apply it in place. Unfortunately they did this to all 4 cabs.

Click to expand...
 
nem said:
If you're refurbing Japanese cabs in any capacity, you will probably need a metric tap and die set at some point. I use mine every now and then. I would run that bolt with a die to cut the thread.
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I’m gonna swing through harbor freight and get one. The only problem I see is the threads are under a lip so the diestock handles may not fit inside the cab.

I’ll try though and grab some heavy stripper too while I’m at it.

 
bagheera369 said:
Solmin said:
Nice work there @hoagtech!

It's nice to see the love for the old stuff!

One day if I get out of collecting I'd like to sell to someone who has that level of appreciation.

:)
Click to expand...
Solmin, brother, I'm just 4 hrs north of you. ;) I haven't gotten to powder coating yet, cause I got into a very expensive pinball habit...but it's on the list. Lol.
@hoagtech - I would say a wire wheel on a drill, run slowly, so that you don't actually eat the threads, but just brush the powder coating off....or if you can get the nuts to start at all, drive them with a drill and socket, slowly, and the nut will scrape off the powdercoat as its driven down the bolt. Once you get it driven the first time, simply put it on and take it off a few times, and you should be fine.

I use a wire wheel on a bench grinder to do my control panels, when they need to be stripped, but use a drill on the lowest speed/torque if i need to wire wheel the screw threads....and do that with a cautious eye and gentle touch.

I would assume a wire/brass brush would work as well, and will be more delicate, and more tedious....
Click to expand...
Thanks @bagheera369

The wire wheel worked almost instantly on mid speed. It took me 20 seconds. Thanks guys. I'm so happy



@nem

The diestock did not fit under the lip but This die kit is definitely going to come in handy so I'm keeping it. thanks for the tip.
 
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After clearing the threads I attached 3 hinged monitor covers.



I ran out of time because of my company bowling team.

After heading home I almost got hit by three cars and then stopped for this poor fellow. It happened right in front of me. Dude was going too fast and rolled into a ditch.



It makes you feel grateful to come home safely. The dude seemed fine after crawling out of his window and refused ambulance help.

What a weird night.

I must get these Aero’s perfect.
 
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