Naomi/Chihiro/Triforce Security Key case/cover

[mathewbeall]

Hello All - has anyone made a 3d printable model of these yet?

Thanks,

Matt

 

[mathewbeall]

I don't see anything out there on the interweb - so I will give this a crack myself. I am not skilled at all - so we will see!

 

[winteriscoming]

I've got a little cap I made. It only covers the hole, and doesn't act as a housing.

I don't yet have a thingiverse account, so haven't posted it anywhere.

I designed it in Fusion 360 and can share with you if you want it.

 

[mathewbeall]

I made some headway last night and have the part of the housing that the chip sits in designed and printed and tested.... the harder part will be the two sides - I will start on that tonite. But yeah - if you can send over the STL - there might be something I can use there... I should probably try and use Fusion360 - it seems what most people are using.

 

[winteriscoming]

Attached is the STL file.

 

[mathewbeall]

Well - after a few days of messing with this, I just am not sure it will work.... attached is a stl file for the side pieces.... I am very close - but I think I need to make it slightly longer, but the walls at 1mm are already too thick - it won't fit in the opening, I would need to shrink the wall thickness down to probably half a mm, and I just don't think that would hold up well enough....

Any ideas/thoughts? Or is this one where the injection molded plastic is just the way to go...

Matt

 

[twistedsymphony]

the walls at 1mm are already too thick - it won't fit in the opening

You need to think about the design in term of the 3D printer... if you're using a standard .4mm nozzle then your walls should be sized as multiples of that. so .4mm, .8mm, 1.2mm, 1.6mm etc. as a matter of fact you can actually go smaller than that since there is a slight amount of overlap. I think most slicers have about 10 or 15% overlap for bonding so you might be able to do say .76mm and still get 2 layers (play around with the size and then view the tool path in your slicer to see how it works out).

when you specify 1mm your slicer is going to essentially make 2 very thin walls next to each other that are disconnected. by going with .8mm not only will it be thinner but it will also be stronger because those 2 walls will be bonded together.


As for the rest of your model there are a lot of overhangs and week spots, sharp corners are the enemy as they get heat soaked in the printing process and cause warping. Adding chamfers and fillets everywhere that you're able will dramatically strengthen your model and make it look better too. You're also putting thin walls everywhere but you should try to bulk up your model in the places that you can to help compensate for the thin walled areas. Don't try try to make it look like other plastic parts that you've seen, just start with the key dimensions that can't be changed and then build from there.

 

[mathewbeall]

Thanks @twistedsymphony - it's my first time modeling anything - using tinkercard. I'll give it another run using your suggestions!

Matt

 

[ar2r]

Hi,

this is an old thread but i thought i will share my take on this matter

my printer is not the best so no chance of recreating the original. @twistedsymphony summarised it quite well

I have a 3d printed body that i attach the pic to using a piece of metal (got a lot of those from pins like molex etc.) and two small screws.

It works quite well for me but if you have any suggestions on how to improve it am i happy to try them.

stl attached

 

[mathewbeall]

Hi,

this is an old thread but i thought i will share my take on this matter

my printer is not the best so no chance of recreating the original. @twistedsymphony summarised it quite well

I have a 3d printed body that i attach the pic to using a piece of metal (got a lot of those from pins like molex etc.) and two small screws.

It works quite well for me but if you have any suggestions on how to improve it am i happy to try them.

stl attached

Thanks @ar2r - I will give this a shot!

Matt

 

[ar2r]

Hi,

this is an old thread but i thought i will share my take on this matter

my printer is not the best so no chance of recreating the original. @twistedsymphony summarised it quite well

I have a 3d printed body that i attach the pic to using a piece of metal (got a lot of those from pins like molex etc.) and two small screws.

It works quite well for me but if you have any suggestions on how to improve it am i happy to try them.

stl attached

Thanks @ar2r - I will give this a shot!
Matt

try printing on side with support and around 50% infill