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hyp36rmax

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What's the difference between Taiwan FUTURE and Japan HRS?
 
Just ordered! Picked Japan HRS Jamma connector version. Also added some Naomi CF game disc with plans to buy CF Netdimm in the future! Thanks!
 
Just ordered! Picked Japan HRS Jamma connector version. Also added some Naomi CF game disc with plans to buy CF Netdimm in the future! Thanks!
I'd get the other one. The HRS just cracks so easily. If yours does crack, just make sure you use a key so it doesn't slide and short.
 
I'd get the other one. The HRS just cracks so easily. If yours does crack, just make sure you use a key so it doesn't slide and short.
Thanks for the suggestion. What did you mean by key? I read about cracking, Is there substantial data to show this is common? I mean most of these that cracked are nearly 25+ years old no? has this happened to you?

@Axun would it be possible to change before you build if I choose to go with Taiwan FUTURE version? As of right now I prefer the HRS.
 
The plastic edge on the Hirose is brittle. It doesn’t take much to break it. New or old. It’s nice quality as long as you take extra care to remove and insert your PCBs perfectly horizontally without twisting out toward the edge. Either way you should have a key in place for peace or mind IMO.

My personal preference ultimately is the Z-JAMMA edge which is pretty cheap and performs well. I noticed that @Hatsune Mike uses these on his Splitfire device and he has good QC.

Another connector I have been highly recommended is this one which has also been used in some projects made on this site: https://www.ebay.com/itm/132127178910
 
The plastic edge on the Hirose is brittle. It doesn’t take much to break it. New or old. It’s nice quality as long as you take extra care to remove and insert your PCBs perfectly horizontally without twisting out toward the edge. Either way you should have a key in place for peace or mind IMO.

My personal preference ultimately is the Z-JAMMA edge which is pretty cheap and performs well. I noticed that @Hatsune Mike uses these on his Splitfire device and he has good QC.

Another connector I have been highly recommended is this one which has also been used in some projects made on this site: https://www.ebay.com/itm/132127178910

Is this a JAMMA key below? What purpose does this have? These just slot into the JAMMA? Please correct me here, these keys are designed to mitigate improper insertion of the JAMMA into the slot right? Especially Extensions since it can easily be mis-slotted?

https://www.retrorgb.com/3d-printable-jamma-key-by-greg-collins.html

https://laserbear.net/shop/ols/products/jamma-connector-keys
 
The JAMMA key just sits in PIN 7 of the JAMMA connector. Not much science to it. Just an extra precautionary measure in case you accidentally use your connector upside down, or have a cracked one therefore allowing it to slide down one pin or bridge two pins.

You can easily use a dab of solder or hot glue to block the pin, but if you play PCBs without a notch on the edge, you’ll have to manually reverse it.

The official part from Hirose is called a “G Pin” as pictured below, but 3D printed ones are good enough, however they do tend to slip diagonally every now and then.

4CA5C4C6-56B4-429E-9479-B6BA5C882B5E.jpeg

C44CFA3E-4C54-4B89-90A7-641C70DB9783.jpeg
 
The JAMMA key just sits in PIN 7 of the JAMMA connector. Not much science to it. Just an extra precautionary measure in case you accidentally use your connector upside down, or have a cracked one therefore allowing it to slide down one pin or bridge two pins.

You can easily use a dab of solder or hot glue to block the pin, but if you play PCBs without a notch on the edge, you’ll have to manually reverse it.

Now I understand!!!! haha. Thank you @djsheep and @XtraSmiley ! I appreciate the explainations. Cheers!
 
Thanks for the suggestion. What did you mean by key? I read about cracking, Is there substantial data to show this is common? I mean most of these that cracked are nearly 25+ years old no? has this happened to you?

@Axun would it be possible to change before you build if I choose to go with Taiwan FUTURE version? As of right now I prefer the HRS.
I want to try to solve the problem of KEY, which I am doing recently. Maybe it will be installed for HRS soon, Taiwan's plug is the default common plug. It is also used by all my products JAMMA. HRS is limited. Because the number is limited.
 
HRS is a great connector, but no matter how careful I was, I ended up breaking two of them on my older HAS'. Mike stopped using on the HAS around v3 I believe, probably for the same reason.

You can be gentle like a baby, but ultimately the HRS will crack. They still work fine, but eh, I prefer them to look good too!
 
I want to try to solve the problem of KEY, which I am doing recently. Maybe it will be installed for HRS soon, Taiwan's plug is the default common plug. It is also used by all my products JAMMA. HRS is limited. Because the number is limited.

I don't mind waiting for my order if you plan on optimizing the HRS connector. Not in a rush for this at all.
 
Got the other two JAMMA edge options currently available from Axunworks products and here are my thoughts.

I upgraded my JJ-CBOX to a Hirose connector. I gotta say, the tightness of a brand new Hirose connector is still pretty damn tough. Only slighly "lighter" than the stock light blue "Taiwan Future" one that @Axun provides. I think I've become too use to the old Hirose ones in my cabs that probably have had decades of use and become a lot less tight. Either that, or manufacturing has changed. I can still recommend this connector if you're after authentic OG Japanese high quality parts.

hirose.JPG


The other connector which is the black "Noguchi" actually suprised me. It's very easy to remove boards and it has a nice feel to it. It's a little deeper too. I can recommend this if you're going to be changing boards out a lot. Very nice indeed.

noguchi.JPG


The new JAMMA keys that Axun provides with his devices are really high quality. They're cut properly and made out of the same material as PCBs. They fit deep into the JAMMA connector and don't slip like the 3D printed ones. Hopefully he sells these in batches of 10 or 20 as they'd be good to have around. Paging @Axun.

I believe all the edges on my Superguns/JAMMA Extenders/Voltmeters prior were the Z-Jamma connector and I believe I just became too used to that.

Hope this helps you making your choice. In a nutshell, get the black one if you're changing boards a lot and have weak hands. If you're a regular user the stock "Taiwan Future" edge is just fine. If you love authenticity and supreme quality, pop the loot and get the Hirose.
 
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When will the black "Noguchi" be avail in the axun store for jamma extender?
 
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