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WTB "MS8 29" chassis

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Grand Am has a 25" screen, not 29". The yokes have slightly different specs, might as well get the correct chassis for it.
 
nem said:
Grand Am has a 25" screen, not 29". The yokes have slightly different specs, might as well get the correct chassis for it.
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An Italian technician tells me that it could be an internal dispersion of the flyback. To try to keep the cab on for a couple of days, which could fix itself.

In any case, he is also of your thoughts on the alleged compatibility of the ms8 29 chassis on a 29 tube. He says yes, it would work, but not with the same image quality. On the contrary (chassis 29 out of 25), it would be even dangerous, as it could melt after a couple of days.

What do you advise me to do?
 
Semload said:
What do you advise me to do?
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As someone who has a dozen MS8-25s, I would say more than likely it's a poor solder joint, especially if it's something that happens sporadically. I would get the chassis looked at.

As for the replacement chassis, I would get another MS8-25. Like I said, the yokes have different specs. A -29 will work, but it will have issues.
 
nem said:
As someone who has a dozen MS8-25s, I would say more than likely it's a poor solder joint, especially if it's something that happens sporadically. I would get the chassis looked at.

As for the replacement chassis, I would get another MS8-25. Like I said, the yokes have different specs. A -29 will work, but it will have issues.
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You tell me it can be a weld ... but how do you identify it?
Also, in case you need to replace the chassis, do you know anyone who has an MS8 25?
 
Semload said:
You tell me it can be a weld ... but how do you identify it?
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Cracks often look like rings in the solder joint, they can be pretty easy to spot.

Start by checking the joints for the pots, the vertical sub-PCB (the one that has the pot on it), and the connectors for the remote.
 
nem said:
Cracks often look like rings in the solder joint, they can be pretty easy to spot.

Start by checking the joints for the pots, the vertical sub-PCB (the one that has the pot on it), and the connectors for the remote.
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OK! I'll have someone do it of course ...

Meanwhile, I'll update you on one thing. When I inadvertently hit the cab, it begins to make this flaw. I give it another hit or 2 and it returns to normal. Are you saying this thing is related to something specific? Or just what are you saying?
 
Today I kept it on for at least 3 hours and it didn't make any defects. I started playing and after 20 min she started to flicker.
As you can see from the video, giving the blows, the image sometimes returns to normal.

https://imgur.com/a/mGeXAqa
 
Yeah, that to me points to a poor solder joint or faulty pot. Have you tried adjusting the horizontal size pot when it does that?
 
nem said:
Yeah, that to me points to a poor solder joint or faulty pot. Have you tried adjusting the horizontal size pot when it does that?
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I tried, but it keeps widening and tightening. It also happened that a camber was formed on the left side.
 
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