64MK
Professional
I do, I just like to save factory harnesses.
Get this set of pre-crimped .110 terminal wire.I do, I just like to save factory harnesses.
The perfect reply. Thank you so much.Get this set of pre-crimped .110 terminal wire.
It will go perfectly with my encoder suggestion (ie only one end is terminal crimped for the button, the other pre-stripped ready for encoder).
Also, YES .110 is what you want IF you are going for "candy" (aka Japan) arcade experience like Sanwa and Semitsu buttons.
The .187 is for American woodies and buttons like Suzo/Happ or IL.
Don't worry about the joystick harness, it will come with the stick in most cases (example Sanwa JFL).
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That project takes time and skills..
I would just get something like the link bellow and call it a day..,, screw the control panel on the lower shelf, put a PC monitor on the upper shelf with two speakers, use a PC/PI/whater and you are good to go..
https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/st...nd-stand-desk-in-white/5279843?skuId=66935889
This! ^ Would be perfect for you... the art and skill of cabinet making takes on a whole new level there. I second that opinion, and many of us are residents on both forums.Well if you’re 100% set on building your own, I highly recommend checking out the BYOAC forum (build your own arcade controls), which has a TON of information and project threads of scratch-built cabs.
Not trying to push you outta here, it’s just that forum is dedicated to building cabs from scratch. You’ll get way more builders chiming in and guiding you through the process.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php
I've never used that device... but no, it won't be affected by the swapping issue.Wondering if it has the issues of swapping player 1 and 2 sometimes.
Ouch man... You really shouldn't sell OLEDs short.god forbid LCD