Displaying arcade boards on CRT?

[SuperJamesNelson]

Hello everyone
Apologies if this has been answered already, or if it's not in the right spot, but I recently got my first arcade JAMMA board, and was wondering if anyone could provide tips for how I could display them on a CRT, or any monitor for that matter.

I currently have:

• A Supergun Mak Strike v3
• RetroTink RGB2COMP converter
• 2 JAMMA boards. A 60-in-1 (which is what I'm using to test everything) and The NewZealand Story

I got the image to display on both my CRTs, but not correctly, and I was told it was because they don't have the correct horizontal refresh rate.

If anyone knows how I could possibly fix this, or if I need to get another display, I'd greatly appreciate it.
As stated before, I'm very new to all this, and I'm still trying to learn more about how to go about things properly.

 

[hatmoose]

Hello and welcome! NZ story is one of those great games that is both fun to play and very collectable - awesome!

Lets not get too carried away about the horizontal refresh rate things just yet.

I'm going to info dump a whole bunch of analogue video stuff in the next few lines, depending on where you are in your journey we'll unpack as we go.

your JAMMA boards are going to produce Analogue video output at RGB at line level (4-5 volts! P2P), and CSYNC at TTL (approx 5v P2P)
Your Makstrike + SCART is going to tame those wild signals down to something more consumer electronics friendly like .7 volts RGBS
Your retrorink is going to convert the RGBS to Component video
Your CRT is then going to display the component video.

Sooooo, all the other elements of your video chain are known
What are you using for a CRT?

 

[SuperJamesNelson]

Thank you for the response and breakdown on how things work!

I currently have 2 CRTs

• Samsung TXN2036F
• Philips 27PS50 B121

The Samsung CRT being my main one, and the Philips being what I used to get that picture.

 

[hatmoose]

Ok, and some troubleshooting stuff
1) is the retrotink powered (it has a usb socket and needs 5 volts)
2) does the Tv successfuly display other component sources
3) does the supergun work with any other boards
4) do the boards work as expected in a cabinet or etc.

I’m suspecting (1) looks like signal is getting to the Tv, but no sync, which is exactly what the retrotink should be doimg

 

[Plymelk]

To chime in, those 60-in-1 boards output 31kz over the vga port and 15kz over the jamma edge. There should be a toggle switch on that board (check manual) to see what your test board is outputting. Not familiar with the supergun referenced, but I think its safe to assume that it expects sync over the jamma edge. I'd double check that setting for 15kz

New Zealand Story does not have this feature, its video signal is all over the jamma edge, so id test that too FWIW. I agree with hatmoose that the picture looks like its out of sync.

 

[SuperJamesNelson]

In response to hatmoose:

1. The RetroTink was plugged in with the USB stick, and the end side was glowing red
2. Yes
3. I haven't tried my TNZS board yet out of fear of accidently breaking it, but if there's nothing to worry about, I can give it a shot
4. Unsure, I don't have anything else to try them out

In response to Plymelk:
My supergun didn't come with a manual from what I saw, so I can't be certain what does what, but as stated before, I'm willing to give my TNZS board a try if the risk of it somehow breaking is low

 

[ShootTheCore]

That voltage of 5.34V showing on the SuperGun is way too high and dangerous for the board. Turn the voltage adjustment dial on the PSU down. You want to get it as close to 5.0V as possible and ideally never exceed 5.15V. Every board draws different amounts of power so expect to readjust the PSU when switching between boards.

Once your voltage is set correctly then it should be safe to test your New Zealand Story board.

 

[SuperJamesNelson]

Is the PSU something I control on the supergun itself, or something connected to it? Again, sorry for sounding ignorant, I'm still trying to learn how all this works and what everything means

 

[Aurich]

Is the PSU something I control on the supergun itself, or something connected to it? Again, sorry for sounding ignorant, I'm still trying to learn how all this works and what everything means

You control it on the power supply. Which one do you have? There will be a knob to adjust the voltage, will say something like +V ADJ or the like. You can read the output on your supergun since it has a display, but you can't change it there.

You're running a little high in your photo. Not gonna fry anything by going .3 over, but might as well use this as a chance to get familiar, dial it down to an even 5.0

 

[SuperJamesNelson]

You control it on the power supply. Which one do you have? There will be a knob to adjust the voltage, will say something like +V ADJ or the like. You can read the output on your supergun since it has a display, but you can't change it there.

You're running a little high in your photo. Not gonna fry anything by going .3 over, but might as well use this as a chance to get familiar, dial it down to an even 5.0

This is what I was given. Doesn't seem to have anything to adjust power with. Is there a different power supply I should look at buying instead with the same end to fit into the supergun?

 

[JoeAwesome]

Measure the voltage output with a separate multimeter- your display *may* be off spec.

 

[Aurich]

Measure the voltage output with a separate multimeter- your display *may* be off spec.

This is always a good idea, but in practice I've never really found any glaring disparities.

 

[Aurich]

This is what I was given. Doesn't seem to have anything to adjust power with. Is there a different power supply I should look at buying instead with the same end to fit into the supergun?

Ah, never used that model, but the makers say the 5V is ajustable:

https://arcadeforge.net/Supergun-MAK-Strike/Supergun-MAK-Strike::112.html?language=en

I prefer an external switching power supply, but no, I don't see any reason to replace what you have, it's clearly designed to use it.

Just plug it in without a game and figure out where the knob to adjust the 5V is. I can't see it in the pictures, you might have to hunt a little.

 

[astro_zombie138]

My guess is it doesn't like what that multi board is putting out. Your tv wants 15khz, something isn't gelling with the signal. I personally use a supergun with the same retrotink on my crt. I'd try your legit board and see what diplays.

 

[astro_zombie138]

Ah, never used that model, but the makers say the 5V is ajustable:

https://arcadeforge.net/Supergun-MAK-Strike/Supergun-MAK-Strike::112.html?language=en

I prefer an external switching power supply, but no, I don't see any reason to replace what you have, it's clearly designed to use it.

Just plug it in without a game and figure out where the knob to adjust the 5V is. I can't see it in the pictures, you might have to hunt a little.

I think they were referring to the optional switching power supply. Looks like the brick version is straight 5v and 12v without adjustment.
https://arcadeforge.net/Arcade-Parts/5V-and-12V-PSU-for-Arcade-and-PiJamma::107.html

 

[Aurich]

I think they were referring to the optional switching power supply. Looks like the brick version is straight 5v and 12v without adjustment.
https://arcadeforge.net/Arcade-Parts/5V-and-12V-PSU-for-Arcade-and-PiJamma::107.html

Ah yeah, that makes more sense.

https://arcadeforge.net/Supergun-MAK-Strike/Arcade-Power-Supply-12V-5V-und-5V::93.html

So look, you can do what you want, but me personally? I use a proper switching power supply that's adjustable. It's better, and it's more flexible. I don't necessarily trust those wall warts as much. Are they putting out roughly 5V? Sure. Is that good enough? Probably. Does it seem worth cheaping out on a $30 power supply when most PCBs go for at least 10x that these days? Not really.

Even their own page says "Usually this PSU works also with simple Jamma PCBs". Real confidence booster there lol.

 

[JohnRambo'sKnife]

You can probably open the power brick and adjust the 5V if you see a pot inside.

 

[SuperJamesNelson]

Ah yeah, that makes more sense.

https://arcadeforge.net/Supergun-MAK-Strike/Arcade-Power-Supply-12V-5V-und-5V::93.html

So look, you can do what you want, but me personally? I use a proper switching power supply that's adjustable. It's better, and it's more flexible. I don't necessarily trust those wall warts as much. Are they putting out roughly 5V? Sure. Is that good enough? Probably. Does it seem worth cheaping out on a $30 power supply when most PCBs go for at least 10x that these days? Not really.

Even their own page says "Usually this PSU works also with simple Jamma PCBs". Real confidence booster there lol.

I do feel like getting a switching power supply would be my best option. Do you know if they sell any I could buy separately? I want to make sure there's no risk to damaging any of my boards before trying my original JAMMA.

 

[Plymelk]

In response to hatmoose:

1. The RetroTink was plugged in with the USB stick, and the end side was glowing red
2. Yes
3. I haven't tried my TNZS board yet out of fear of accidently breaking it, but if there's nothing to worry about, I can give it a shot
4. Unsure, I don't have anything else to try them out

In response to Plymelk:
My supergun didn't come with a manual from what I saw, so I can't be certain what does what, but as stated before, I'm willing to give my TNZS board a try if the risk of it somehow breaking is low

I was referring to the manual for the 60-in-1 board. That will show you if you have the dip switch flipped to 31kz (outputs video over vga head) or to 15kz (outputs video over jamma edge). A switching power supply is preferable. Nothing special is needed except that the 5 volt rail be adjustable. this should work https://twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=521_531&products_id=3414

 

[Aurich]

I do feel like getting a switching power supply would be my best option. Do you know if they sell any I could buy separately?

Look at the link in my post, that's what that is.

It's just a normal switching power supply, you could get one anywhere. But, they sell a cable that makes hooking it up to your supergun easy, and that I suspect you want. No offense, but you're new to this, something plug and play seems smart for you.