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Sega Aero & Goldfish Catcher ATM

I got to fiddle around a bit today. I wanted to wait until I got all the powder pieces back but I felt guilty as I bought a new cab and I didnt want to get too distracted by it and leave my current project in a million pieces.

So I started piecing the Aero together with what parts I had.

I went to assemble my coin mech and change shutter but it was dingy, so after a soap and a grease, I was ready to tackle it.

39892-FE5-0-D02-4-AE6-AC91-C7634724-E073.jpg


The installation went smoothly. I noticed the coin door supports two coin mechs but I haven't seen an Aero CP with 2 Yen slots yet. Curious..

7471-CBCE-DFA6-4-A5-F-A61-A-85-CA95397-ACD.jpg


I installed the lock with the straight tang in the coin door, but I have HUGE gap between the coin door and the tang. What do I do to close it?

B01-DC4-B4-B74-D-47-CC-B9-D0-3-C02-B4-C2-F7-E4.jpg


I secured the topper with a few nuts and secured the nuts to the topper piece, (that were awkward to get to) to save me a bit of trouble later..

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I felt less bad about checking out the new cab after some basic work so I decided to crack open the "Sega Goldfish"

The front lock was missing, but I found the lock, keys, tang, and second coin mech laying inside the prize box..

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AF542-BE1-3-CEE-451-F-8-B2-B-EBB1-E091428-D.jpg


The key cylinder was jammed though and wouldn't turn. I have some experience in re pinning and setting the springs but will save it for another time. I wanted to close my JAMMA door so I decided to rob the lock from the coin bin and change out the tang to the door lock.

Success. I can close the door and lock it! Woo Hoo!

44173-A8-A-492-B-4-F1-D-BFD3-CA003-FD1-B623.jpg


I decided to install the second coin mech..

The leads were all there so it went smoothly.

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TIme to turn this thing on and hopefully play some Goldfish!

1877186-A-5284-4-DBB-B0-B4-1-E0-E8-F96-F26-F.jpg


"Hopper Unpaid Error"?? DaFUQ?

I found the hopper but couldn't clear the error.

AB3-E5565-AEDB-4-FB9-8773-96519-AB46-F21.jpg


I noticed the first coin mech fed the hopper so I tried putting in 100Y.

E35-A59-B5-35-AC-42-AB-9-B64-A68-EBD771645.jpg


No dice. What kind of tiny coin does this mystical machine accept?

After messing the service menu I was able to spin the hopper and dispense yen but I still cannot clear this error.

I'm stoked to have it though. After some JAMMA loom theory discussion on this site. I'm confident I can create a JAMMA cab out of this gazelle
 
Last edited:
hoagtech said:
I bought 2 Blast city cabs. I am confident that the panel above will have the correct hookups and kicks. My question was will I need more kick harnesses or wires for the 3 button model I will be receiving.

I would like to know if I need to order them separately.

signal-2019-10-25-120359.jpg
Click to expand...
Hello,

Would you mind to take a closer picture of the stickers on the bezel?
 
hoagtech said:
The Conical bit for the win! It ruined the bit but I was able to keep shaving the weld until the 24mm buttons cleared

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Once done I dropped it off at my Powder Coater and chose RAL 9016 like before

B2-BB172-D-8-ADC-4982-930-F-648-B1928416-F.jpg


The guys over at Mt Baker Powder Coating in Bellingham WA give me ridiculous rates as long as I prep beforehand by blasting or making an attempt to keep them powder coating and not cleaning.. (they hate sandblasting even though it's their job and I don't blame them)

Also coincidentally I won ANOTHER Aero City off of ebay for $795 with a Shmup in it. So I guess I will have another parts cab after I restore this lol

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Click to expand...
That's awesome! I was in talks with the guy who was selling these Aero Cities. Unfortunately, I had things pop up that prevented me traveling to pick one up. I think it's strange browsing forums and finding an eBay ad that you were stalking again lol.
 
The powder coaters are backed up.. Still..

So that gives me another chance to take on the Sega Goldfish cab I recently acquired.

The first thing I want to tackle is the LCD replacement.

LCD begone!

50130-DC7-A69-E-44-EB-8707-D08-F629380-B2.jpg


I had to equip myself at the hardware store next.

I chose smaller bolt sizes and thin strut so I could wiggle and tighten my CRT monitor in case it didnt align with the bezel.

I started with a measurement of center for my strut posts.

(I noticed this cab has never been CRT as the factory welds supported the frame of the LCD..)

E44-BD480-C39-A-4857-AB45-BE3-C9-BEC6-C9-F.jpg


I took a play out of @SNK-NEO-GEO 's book and bought some slats of steel to mount my CRT monitor

4-FFA0-C16-256-D-42-F5-AD0-C-B6-B3770-AEFD8.jpg


The centering went great as I used a straight edge along the existing LCD mounts as a guide

After some trial and error. I finally got it mounted and centered. The problem was the CRT stuck out more than the LCD and wouldn't close on the LCD bezel.

So I got some spacers and installed them behind my strut until the center of the monitor was barely touching the bezel.

6336-B2-F5-DF74-4339-8-CED-125-C14921-D11.jpg


The hardware store had irregular parts so I had to drill out 3 out of 4 spacers to fit the thread.

5-B0-C444-A-8-F94-471-B-8292-5-DE024-C1-ED21.jpg


After mounting, I noticed the LCD bezel was bigger than the CRT so I had to close the corners in gasket material..

92945-F9-C-A64-A-40-F2-AB1-E-E90-F9-AB77-A58.jpg


I now have a 13" Arcade monitor properly mounted and ready for the next step. JAMMA......

F08-CFBA3-5-C0-E-43-A7-9-D5-E-2-C2-FD09-EE67-E.jpg
 
hoagtech said:
The powder coaters are backed up.. Still..

So that gives me another chance to take on the Sega Goldfish cab I recently acquired.

The first thing I want to tackle is the LCD replacement.

LCD begone!

50130-DC7-A69-E-44-EB-8707-D08-F629380-B2.jpg


I had to equip myself at the hardware store next.

I chose smaller bolt sizes and thin strut so I could wiggle and tighten my CRT monitor in case it didnt align with the bezel.

I started with a measurement of center for my strut posts.

(I noticed this cab has never been CRT as the factory welds supported the frame of the LCD..)

E44-BD480-C39-A-4857-AB45-BE3-C9-BEC6-C9-F.jpg


I took a play out of @SNK-NEO-GEO 's book and bought some slats of steel to mount my CRT monitor

4-FFA0-C16-256-D-42-F5-AD0-C-B6-B3770-AEFD8.jpg


The centering went great as I used a straight edge along the existing LCD mounts as a guide

After some trial and error. I finally got it mounted and centered. The problem was the CRT stuck out more than the LCD and wouldn't close on the LCD bezel.

So I got some spacers and installed them behind my strut until the center of the monitor was barely touching the bezel.

6336-B2-F5-DF74-4339-8-CED-125-C14921-D11.jpg


The hardware store had irregular parts so I had to drill out 3 out of 4 spacers to fit the thread.

5-B0-C444-A-8-F94-471-B-8292-5-DE024-C1-ED21.jpg


After mounting, I noticed the LCD bezel was bigger than the CRT so I had to close the corners in gasket material..

92945-F9-C-A64-A-40-F2-AB1-E-E90-F9-AB77-A58.jpg


I now have a 13" Arcade monitor properly mounted and ready for the next step. JAMMA......

F08-CFBA3-5-C0-E-43-A7-9-D5-E-2-C2-FD09-EE67-E.jpg
Click to expand...
Very cool man. I've been wanting one of these little Dino king clones to do the same and make a mini Aero, Blast and Astro. Really cool stuff
 
Regarding the CRT - I came with the same conclusion as you on my first cab but on my second cab, I looked online and there was a post and pictures on how the CRT fits with the “LCD” mounting brackets but they are actually the CRT original brakets and those four plastic thing goes with it as well and it is a perfect fit.. I ended up drilling holes on the “LCD” brakets to mount the CRT. It was a long time ago when I did this so I don’t quite remember the link to what I am talking about but I will see if I can find it later.
 
there is a picture there that shows exactly what is going on.. The mounting of the brackets is different for the CRT than the LCD.. but the way you mounted yours is good if you are going to tate the CRT but you have to cut the metal horizontal bars.. Also, @alberto1225 is creating some custom panels which to my palm rest are perfect..I did not like the the joystick was position from other panels projects.
https://neilsarcadediary.wordpress.com/2022/06/18/dino-king-conversion-part-3/
 
I called the powder coated and the reason they gave for the delay was “my fake chrome powder” was out of stock. I believe them..

So another I had another chance to make some progress on the Sega Goldfish JAMMA harness.

The “mikes arcade” harness looks great to me as they tie 5v,-5,12, and ground into one fork for your PSU. Easy as ABC

I noticed the AC plug had this coupler on it. I would like to purchase the plug end if it’s available. (Purchase links welcome).

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Thankfully. The seller included a lopped RGBSGr connector so I was able to solder it to the harness easily..

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I’m ready to display an image off a JAMMA board as soon as I grab my isolation transformer from storage.

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If anyone knows the proper fuse and isolation order (share that XP please)

This is exciting and is going smoother than I expected it to..
 
hoagtech said:
I noticed the AC plug had this coupler on it. I would like to purchase the plug end if it’s available. (Purchase links welcome).
Click to expand...

That's a Molex connector. Just by eyeballing it I think it could be 6.30mm pitch, but I could be wrong. Here's a 2-pin receptacle:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0003091022/61318
https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_housings/0003091022

Check the pitch with a caliper before ordering. Remember to get pins as well.
 
I plugged my monitor into my isolation transformer setup and ended with a green screen and a whiny pitch from the anode cap.

I wanted to leave it here before I hook up the PSU and JAMMA and hear your thoughts on this…

8626-F65-B-F58-A-4-FC8-BD38-C67316-FC7-D73.jpg
 
The green screen made me uncomfortable. I didn't want my first attempt at wiring a Jamma to a PSU halted by it so I brought a second opinion device and checked my wiring..

First I made sure my ISO was setup properly by checking my setup guide for my test bench. Everything checked out

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Next I had to unsolder my RGBS connector from the PSU and tie it to my Craftymech Test Pattern Generator for my "second opinion"

C0536-CEB-F4-E7-456-F-8347-CC9393-A852-A0.jpg


After messing with my H and V sync and a few sync modes on the Crafty TPG I was able to get a stable image.. Besides the gambling burn it was juicy one at that!

A24-EEE6-D-D81-D-4-F9-D-B29-A-2-EABC9-CAD276.jpg


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I have a TON of 13" CRT donor but I wanted to make sure the chassis was capable before I started that process.. It turns out this monitor liked to display green with no signal but at least I determined that fact instead of assuming a failed component.

After remounting and soldering my AC and RGBsVgr. I had no time left to check my JAMMA wiring. I'm feeling ALOT better then I did with the last test...

Next is JAMMA test

Shout out to @KaPH33n for configuring my TPG solution..
 
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