Silly question about Namco ES1

[ycyleo]

Hi guys,

I literally is a beginner in this sector without too much of knowledge and I still bought a ES1 machine, you guys can laugh at me.

So basically, I just want to know how can I power the machine on, do I need to acquire a set of controller / button which from actual cab ( I mean something like test, service and power button )?
or I can just use a generic pc power button and plug on the Motherboard? ( I think this may brick the machine if I directly plug something external to the system?)

I attached some pics what I have with me so far, may I have someone can kindly help me on this first step of my journey, much appreciate.

 

[nem]

You don't need a power button, you can just plug it. Which Gundam is GKE again? Bonds of the Battlefield?

I'm not sure what you're expecting to happen. It will start booting the game and then error due to no IO and / or connection to Namco's server.

 

[ycyleo]

You don't need a power button, you can just plug it. Which Gundam is GKE again? Bonds of the Battlefield?

I'm not sure what you're expecting to happen. It will start booting the game and then error due to no IO and / or connection to Namco's server.

Yes, that is Bonds of the Battlefield (senjo no kizuna).

So you mean, if I just plug the power cord, the machine will just turn on? If yes, sorry for too dumb of me, I just try not do anything before.
Because I am too afraid that if I do anything stupid before proper advice , the machine will brick.

Also, do you know what I/O board will need for me to connect controller to the machine? I presume that external PCB will not be enough, since I found some history picture and seem they have power supply for controller or some essential board(?), do I actually need those official board or I can have some alternative board?

Here are the pictures I found from google:

 

[nem]

So you mean, if I just plug the power cord, the machine will just turn on?

Yes. It's set to restore power on AC loss.

I have no idea on BotB. Try connecting the blue IO board and see what happens. It connects to the JVS port on the motherboard with a USB B cable. You will have to look up the power pinout from the Namco Noir manual:

https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/wtb-namco-noir-ver-c-manual.18227/#post-288427

I wouldn't spend time worrying about controls at this stage. Your biggest hurdle is going to be passing the network check.

 

[ycyleo]

Yes. It's set to restore power on AC loss.

I have no idea on BotB. Try connecting the blue IO board and see what happens. It connects to the JVS port on the motherboard with a USB B cable. You will have to look up the power pinout from the Namco Noir manual:

https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/wtb-namco-noir-ver-c-manual.18227/#post-288427

I wouldn't spend time worrying about controls at this stage. Your biggest hurdle is going to be passing the network check.

Gotcha, thanks for your advise, I am now checking which power transformer for this machine 110v power supply first.

For network, I already presume I may not able to pass that, but I found something on google which may relate to kizuna network thing, trying to get that running.

 

[nem]

Pretty sure the PSU is multivoltage (100-240VAC). There should be a sticker on the side.

 

[ycyleo]

Oh really? since I can't see a sticker on the shell of PSU and it seem not easy to remove the shell also, so I may better play safe.
btw. I bid it from yahoo auction jp

 

[ycyleo]

Yes. It's set to restore power on AC loss.

I have no idea on BotB. Try connecting the blue IO board and see what happens. It connects to the JVS port on the motherboard with a USB B cable. You will have to look up the power pinout from the Namco Noir manual:

https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/wtb-namco-noir-ver-c-manual.18227/#post-288427

I wouldn't spend time worrying about controls at this stage. Your biggest hurdle is going to be passing the network check.

Hiya,

There have two things I would like to ask:

1.)so I just tried to turn it on and it really come up with I/O error, for the I/O board, I actually just plugged a USB B cable(without plug other thing) and connect to the machine,
since I still figuring out how to power up the board, since the maunal quite hard for the beginner like me to read. I mean I can read japanese word, but on the machine picture,
they just name the cable as "connector" and not mentioned what that is, and for the cable diagram, I can read the cable color and the usage of port,
but I still not idea which part represent the I/O board

Should I need to buy a separate modular PSU (for PC) and use adaptor to plug a 4pin power to the board first?

2.)I actually have another set of ES1 but that one seem having power on issue like this thread:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...does-not-power-help-please.16169/#post-268248

that guy advised to unplug a header then use screw driver to turn it on maunally, but I tried one of the header, unplug and use screwdriver touch that( see below pic),
but nothing happen, may I know where is the jumper for turn on the machine?

Much appreciate for any advise on this, thanks.

 

[nem]

Here's the pinout for the NAJV2 IO board from the Noir manual:

At the very bottom, you have connector J43. Also known as CN1. It's a 4-pin JST VH connector. Pins 1 and 2 are GND, and Pins 3 and 4 are +5V. Get the mating connector and contacts for it. You can just populate two of the pins, like in the Noir manual (pins 2 and 3).

Below are links to Digikey:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/jst-sales-america-inc/VHR-4N/608626
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/jst-sales-america-inc/VHR-4N/608626

Digikey also sells precrimped leads, which can be super handy if you do not own a crimping tool:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/jst-sales-america-inc/ASVHSVH16K305/6009483

You can use any 5V power supply to power the board, or you can use the PSU you have in the computer. I would use the computer PSU. The normal 4-pin power connector is a Commercial Mate-n-lok connector. Again, links to Digikey:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/1-480426-0/15646
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/61118-1/290242

Unfortunately, I couldn't find precrimped leads from Digikey. If you choose to get the precrimped JST VH wires, you'll have attach the Commercial Mate-n-Lok contacts somehow on the other end. One option is to press them on with some pliers and add some solder. It's not pretty, but it works.

Alternatively, get a crimping tool. It's a good tool to have around. The Hozan P-706 is probably what most of us here use:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002TKG11G

As for 2), I would figure out why the second computer isn't booting. Since you have two and one of them is working, this is actually easy. You change parts between the computers until you find out what is making the other computer not boot. Start with the RAM. That is very often the issue with any non-booting computer.

 

[ycyleo]

At the very bottom, you have connector J43. Also known as CN1. It's a 4-pin JST VH connector. Pins 1 and 2 are GND, and Pins 3 and 4 are +5V. Get the mating connector and contacts for it. You can just populate two of the pins, like in the Noir manual (pins 2 and 3).

Below are links to Digikey:

much much appreciated nem, thanks for all these details, these really gave me a clear direction.

I still digest all the information but I want to check if my concept right:

So for example, if I buy this Modular PSU (Link), then I buy one of this modular cable with Commercial Mate-n-lok connector end (link), then I cut the Mate-n-lok head & a bit part of lead,
then using crimping tool to crimp the lead become JST VH connector?
Or I just remove all lead from modular cable and just leave the head which for plug to PSU, then buy the precrimped leads(link) and press them in?

Thanks for advise!

So for power on issue, I think I will start from swapping RAM later but I want to add some info, so when it connect to power, all fan on the machine was not running but the I see few green LED turned on (one on the board and one on the side of usb port and DVI port.

 

[nem]

I would avoid using another PC power supply. There is really no point. A PC power supply is made to power a PC, for anything else it isn't very convenient.

The IO board draws possibly less than a watt of power.

Just use the power supply you have in the ES1. You won't have any issues with common ground either.

 

[ycyleo]

I would avoid using another PC power supply. There is really no point. A PC power supply is made to power a PC, for anything else it isn't very convenient.

The IO board draws possibly less than a watt of power.

Just use the power supply you have in the ES1. You won't have any issues with common ground either.

sorry for late response since beening busy in these few days.

I checked the power supply in the ES1 but I can't find any power cable from the PSU were not use,
so how you draw power from the build in PSU? using something like "Sata Power Splitter" to draw power from there?
or using some pinout on the Motherboard which is not occupied? (like the pic in below?)


so I read the ES3 teardown thread and found that the little pcb which on the side was seem also have power output,
do you think if I can use that?

 

[nem]

There's no extra power outputs from the PSU? They're all used?

I would probably use a splitter then.

I don't know what the pinout for the little PCB is. You would have to meter it.

Can you take a picture that shows the connectors coming out from the PSU?

 

[ycyleo]

There's no extra power outputs from the PSU? They're all used?

I would probably use a splitter then.

I don't know what the pinout for the little PCB is. You would have to meter it.

Can you take a picture that shows the connectors coming out from the PSU?

you mean the connectors plugged to the little PCB? here you are:




And yeah, I think and power cable were plugged.

 

[nem]

Just get an adapter like this:

 

[ycyleo]

Just get an adapter like this:

Thanks for the advise! I then use some times to buy all materials and assemble the cable,
rough work but it works:


So now I get another issue, it mentioned can't detect the projector, may I know If you have any idea how to deal with this?
Am I really need to buy the original projector? or there have something else can do in order to bypass this? thanks

 

[nem]

Nice work on the wiring.

For the projector check, you could probably spoof it with an edid emulator. However, for that to work you would need to copy the edid from a projector. Catch 22.

Now that you have the IO working, you could try accessing the test menu. You need to wire up Test and Service buttons. The pinout is in the image I posted.

 

[ycyleo]

Nice work on the wiring.

For the projector check, you could probably spoof it with an edid emulator. However, for that to work you would need to copy the edid from a projector. Catch 22.

Now that you have the IO working, you could try accessing the test menu. You need to wire up Test and Service buttons. The pinout is in the image I posted.

Actually I still not know how to properly read the diagram, so for example of first set of pinout( aka CN4 ), It seem only have 4 pinout on each side but it show 8 pinout,
then the number of pinout in diagram seem not in order:


may I know how can I properly read? should I count 1,2,3... from up to down? or left to right?
Sorry If I asking a silly question again.

For projector, that mean I eventually still need to have a actual projector. Then I doing some reasearch, seem only this company( I think that also one of the seller in here?) selling in europe at the moment and also it was mark faulty, do you think that this can use for copy edid if it still can power on?

https://www.videotronicsuk.com/mitsubishi-lvp-fd630-faulty.html

 

[nem]

You should be able to copy the edid as long as it turns on.

may I know how can I properly read? should I count 1,2,3... from up to down? or left to right?

The orientation is marked on the silkscreen. See the numbers at the corners of the connector.

If the PCB didn't have any markings, you could also try to deduce it through the given pinout. You know 21 and 22 are +5V, and 19, 20, 39 and 40 are ground.

If you get the correct connector for it (JST XA), the numbering is also on the connector.

 

[ycyleo]

You should be able to copy the edid as long as it turns on.



The orientation is marked on the silkscreen. See the numbers at the corners of the connector.

If the PCB didn't have any markings, you could also try to deduce it through the given pinout. You know 21 and 22 are +5V, and 19, 20, 39 and 40 are ground.

If you get the correct connector for it (JST XA), the numbering is also on the connector.

Ah, I see, I can find there really have some number nearby the pinout, that really a great hints for me, I will try to figure it out in the weekend.

So on the diagram, each of the pin have 2 number, one on left and one on right ( like Test 7|7) what is the different between these
I think I got that, that only about female and male of plug ...

Also, when you said deduce it, how will you do that, using some tools?
I mean, for example, I suppose not doing something like using a 5v cable testing each pin until it power the thing up (could be damage the pin or cable I think?)

by the way, I somehow find a Mach storm maunal and I think most of the part may similar to kizuna, I now can really start to know more
about the other pinout like the 9 pin plug(XAD 10P) on the control lever and which are powering it.