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Naomi video on 15Khz looks pretty terrible

I thought this was an interesting read over 2 years, thanks for all the info everyone.

I do wonder, wouldn't it be easier today to just do the 24 to 31khz mod on the MS9s and top with the sharpness mod than to do all the downscaling that is needed with the hard to get UVC? Is there something I would miss by going that route?
 
@XtraSmiley probably right and I still might go this route in the future. At the moment, I'm not nearly skilled enough to trust myself to perform this mod. When it comes time to do some monitor maintenance again, I'll look into it and likely will have someone better than me handle it.
 
Been thinking about that as well. The mod is not difficult to do. It's just that 31khz sounds more of a compromise when I read through Mike's topic. I don't know if there's anyone who's tried both, @opt2not perhaps?
 
Been hesitant to suggest it, but the nuclear option would be to replace the chassis with a Toshiba PF. It will work 100% with the MS9 yoke if you change the vertical current limiting resistor. A Sanwa PFX chassis will also work with no modification.
 
trashedcabs said:
Been hesitant to suggest it, but the nuclear option would be to replace the chassis with a Toshiba PF. It will work 100% with the MS9 yoke if you change the vertical current limiting resistor. A Sanwa PFX chassis will also work with no modification.
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The first thing I hear about that, I've had a flat tube in my NAC but hated the gap it created... any more info on the mod needed?
 
opt2not said:
With the brighter image I’m able to turn my flyback down, not running as hot, and just using the brightness/contrast controls on my remote board to dial it in. It’s nice that I don’t have to push the flyback as hard.
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It's a voltage divider circuit. The maximum voltage is always there. I can't see how it's pushing the flyback.

The screen pot adjusts the G2 voltage, basically the acceleration of electrons. You get a sharper image if you turn it up. I back off once I hit retrace lines.
 
Sp33dFr34k said:
Been thinking about that as well. The mod is not difficult to do. It's just that 31khz sounds more of a compromise when I read through Mike's topic. I don't know if there's anyone who's tried both, @opt2not perhaps?
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Yeah, @Hatsune Mike posted that mod like 4 years ago and said some improvements were ongoing, but then moved to Japan and stopped working on it!!!! Mike, for the love of god, please come back to us and finish that bad boy up! :)
 
Sp33dFr34k said:
Been thinking about that as well. The mod is not difficult to do. It's just that 31khz sounds more of a compromise when I read through Mike's topic. I don't know if there's anyone who's tried both, @opt2not perhaps?
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I’ve done the sharpness mod, but not the 31 kHz one. I’m not willing to mod the chassis that much, and a majority of the time I’m running 15khz. It’s only for a small set of hardware that I’m running a downscaled to 24khz and it’s been working out fine.
lol these days I’m trying to reduce the amount of hobby projects. Sticking to my setup as is
 
Yeah for sure, you're set, but I was recommending this as an alternative for new members b/c I think that downscale might be tricky to find today. If you're good to go, I would not mess with it!

By the way, did the sharpness mod actually look different to your eye? All the pictures I've seen posted, really I can't tell.
 
XtraSmiley said:
Yeah for sure, you're set, but I was recommending this as an alternative for new members b/c I think that downscale might be tricky to find today. If you're good to go, I would not mess with it!

By the way, did the sharpness mod actually look different to your eye? All the pictures I've seen posted, really I can't tell.
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Yes, it definitely increases sharpness and creates some bolder scanlines. Done the mod once for @Firehawk, still need to do mine.

@opt2not if you've already done the G1 mod, all it takes is just changing out 1 resistor iirc? I thought you'd at least tried it out :P
 
Sp33dFr34k said:
The first thing I hear about that, I've had a flat tube in my NAC but hated the gap it created... any more info on the mod needed?
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My mistake. The MS9 already has a yoke with similar measurements to the PF, it will bolt right up if you adapt/change the yoke connectors.


ChassisLhLvRhRv
PD18430.300 mH14.8 mH0.9 Ohm8.2 Ohm
MS9-290.320 mH14.3 mH1 Ohm6.9 Ohm

FWIW my test bench uses an E31S yoke which has lower vertical inductance, and you do need to change out a resistor for the PF to fill the screen on it, which is why I got mixed up. The MS9 will work on a yoke with a lower vertical inductance (about 8 mH) if you max out the vs limit pot. Long day.
 
@opt2not I'm using the exact same Sega IO type, however my findings are similar to @BroadwayJose. I need to turn down brightness and contrast completely to get a somewhat acceptable image. Also have a MS9 in there. All my PCB's are looking great when brightness/contrast is in the middle. So it looks like I will need to bypass the VGA on the JVS IO as well. Weird that our results differ that much.
 
astro_zombie138 said:
I figured out the Atomiswave problem a couple months ago. It still sends video over the jamma edge even when using vga. I covered the rgb pins on the jamma edge with kapton tape and it works great. I was pulling my hair out with that one.
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Finally got around to trying this and it worked perfectly. Thanks for the heads up!
 
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