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Sega 400-5198 recap & repair help (was: short driving me crazy)

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Putting this in general since the nature of the problem is probably not Sega-specific.

tl;dr: I have a short. I can't find a solder bridge and I want to know if anyone knows of other common sources of short circuits.

My Astro PSU's +5V line was topping out at ~4.5V. I've heard a couple times that 400-5198s are overdue for a recap, so I figured it's time. Unsurprisingly, several caps were leaking. I removed the old caps, washed off grime with distilled water and IPA, then (once dry) replaced the caps and tested for continuity. RUH-ROH. There's a short circuit between +5V and G on the 9-pin output. Every solder joint in the red area below has continuity, with resistance around 46 Ohm between circuits.

Sega 400-5198 shorts.jpg
PXL_20250329_224727872.jpg



Okay, so... I'm not looking for anyone else to squint and find the bridge that I didn't. I've been over this board for two nights, solder-side and component-side, and I don't see it. I removed the new caps, I checked the fuse (no obvious scorches), I IPA'd off the no-clean, I cleaned off every little fiber I could find, and I reflowed old solder joints that looked suspiciously close to another circuit. I'm still mapping resistance differences to try to localize the short. For my trouble so far, one of these circuits (the big island of green amid the red) is no longer part of the short circuit. The PSU was (mostly) working before I pulled it, so I don't think the trapped grime is the cause unless maybe the wash concentrated it.

What I am asking is:
  • Are there other sources of short circuits I should look for? Degraded components? The many scuffs in the solder-side solder mask?
  • What is the big yellow component labeled 210100, and which of its pins are supposed to be on G or +5V? Wondering if I have detritus bridging the pins on the component side.
 
Pretty sure that's a 47 ohm resistor between ground and +5V just below the output connectors.

Anyway, it's not a short. Put the new caps in and test it with a load.
WHAAAAAT. Yes, that's a 47 Ohm resistor. I spent two nights looking at this!!

How does that work from an electronics standpoint? I don't have an EE background, but I thought there needs to be much higher resistance between ground and hot.
 
Last edited:
Thanks, @nem

Okay, so amid all the sources saying ground and hot should have large or infinite resistance between them, I found some sources saying essentially:

In an isolated circuit, ground is an arbitrary choice by the designer, not earth ground. (Also, I realized I have no ground wire going into my PSU anyway.)

So I suppose 47 Ohm is enough to enable a 5V difference? Lots to learn.
 
I discovered the 5V pot had a broken leg, probably fatigued when I squeezed a 3D printed pot extender on. I was unable to repair the leg, and since I'm only reading ~0.865 kOhm resistance, I'm guessing it's also worn down from an original 1 kOhm resistance.

Does anyone know the part number for this, or specs for a suitable replacement? I can find other 1k Ohm trimmer pots, but it looks like there's also a maximum wattage rating. The only label on the Sega PSU pot appears to be "13⬆️" pointing toward the pot, or maybe an ugly 13t or 13+.

Also, I love when a product advertises "sufficient quality."

PXL_20250401_222612373.jpg
 
It looks like not a lot of options are rated for 1W (the max in the Digikey filters), so I will gamble that 0.5W is enough.

For anyone else, these are the key specs from the originals as far as I've been able to discern with zero expertise in electrical stuff:
  • 1k Ohm trim pot, horizontal mount, top adjustment
  • 3 terminals, leg distance 6mm
  • ~270 degree turn
  • I don't know the wattage rating
Bourns 3362F-1-102LF looks like it will do the job, though the adjustment input will be hard to find through the PSU case hole and it certainly won't work with Fixon's voltage pot extender. uxcell will drop ship 3362P with Amazon Prime, but that has legs only 2.54mm apart (0.1"). I ordered the 3362F-10-102LF.
 
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