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PCB's repairs (Crude Busters & Ares no tsubasa) and help needed (Dragon Ninja)

Darran

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Today I decided to take the plunge and attempt some basic repairs. The tools i have and my skill set is still in its early stages - limited to spotting the most obvious faults, but it's all about learning right?
First up:

Crude Busters
IMG_6628.jpg

Fires up OK, but won't coin up
IMG_6630.jpg

Examining the board there's some missing parts - NF2, 3, 4 & 5, now to source the parts
IMG_6629.jpg


Second:

Ares no tsubasa
IMG_6632.jpg

Boots to a static screen
IMG_6631.jpg

Checked on the board and we're missing a capacitor at C10, replaced and still the board doesn't fire up.
IMG_6633.jpg

Increased voltage and guess what, it fires up, probably was this easy all along!
IMG_6635.jpg

IMG_6637.jpg


Lastly:

Dragon Ninja

And this is where i need some help
IMG_6641.jpg

Boots to white vertical line, looks like there activity behind the white lines
IMG_6640.jpg

Visually checked the board for damage - non apparent, pulled everything that's socketed cleaned and re-seated, still same fault, where do i go from here, all help appreciated.
 
Examining the board there's some missing parts - NF2, 3, 4 & 5, now to source the parts
IMG_6629.jpg
You should be able to confirm by beeping the JAMMA edge from the coin switch finger to one of the missing filters on its outer pad. I'm fairly sure you can just bridge the two outer pads in a pinch as they're just EMI filters and the middle pad goes to ground. They then probably join up to the resistor array nearby which will be handling pull-up duties.
Checked on the board and we're missing a capacitor at C10, replaced and still the board doesn't fire up.
IMG_6633.jpg
That will just be a decoupling capacitor for the IC near it; ceramic 0.1 uF same as that other one nearby. It wouldn't/shouldn't stop anything booting, (as you figured out anyway).
 
You should be able to confirm by beeping the JAMMA edge from the coin switch finger to one of the missing filters on its outer pad. I'm fairly sure you can just bridge the two outer pads in a pinch as they're just EMI filters and the middle pad goes to ground. They then probably join up to the resistor array nearby which will be handling pull-up duties.

That will just be a decoupling capacitor for the IC near it; ceramic 0.1 uF same as that other one nearby. It wouldn't/shouldn't stop anything booting, (as you figured out anyway).
Much appreciated, what are your thoughts on the dragon ninja white lines, where would you start?
 
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