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netdimm connection issues

Washp

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I've been having this problem with my netdimm for over a year now. After a while my netdimm stops connecting to my netbooter setup. sometimes I reseat the board and it fixes it for a few days, other times its the ethernet cable needing to be swapped for another one. I'm at the point now where I leave screws on the board undone so I can open it up faster to pull apart the option board. does anybody have any insight into how to make the netbooter more reliable at connecting?
 
i am guessing there is oxidation on the pins that connected the boards in the netdimm together? Have you done any cleaning of the connectors with isopropyl alcohol or deoxit?
I've used air dusters on the connection pins before. I have not used isopropyl. I'm not sure how to get inside the thin contact points. are there special brushes for smaller areas? or will a cotton swab be enough?
 
What is the error message you get when it starts acting up?

Error 22/26 is going to be a issue with the NetDIMM connecting to the Naomi.

Error 32/33 are network related meaning either your NetDIMM config is wrong/misconfigured or your device handling game sending is not working.
 
What is the error message you get when it starts acting up?

Error 22/26 is going to be a issue with the NetDIMM connecting to the Naomi.

Error 32/33 are network related meaning either your NetDIMM config is wrong/misconfigured or your device handling game sending is not working.
I dont get an error message per se from the naomi itself.
My setup is the wipi netbooter setup with a raspberry pi4 with a 3ft cat 5e cable. the way I tell If I'm having network issues is if the netbooter tells me my system is offline. my machine may start in online mode when I boot up but when I load into a game it goes offline. sometimes it might load 1 to 13% or so before disconnecting when acting up.

I've done internal diagnostics on my machine, the ram is fine. I've cleared the network profile multiple times and reset the IP and sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't.

I've also had weird instances where something like error 22 pops up and I can still boot a game. I've also had times where I could boot one game once but then the netbooter just shuts off and goes offline unable to connect again.

I've also had times where my system goes offline and I enter into the test menu and the board goes online again.
 
Check your +3.3V and +5V from your power supply on the connectors going into the Naomi. The NetDIMM puts additional load on these rails. Make sure your power supply is rated for a minimum of 8A on each rail. It sounds like the NetDIMM might not be getting enough power.

You may also have a issue with the buffer chip on the NetDIMM which is a common failure point.
 
Check your +3.3V and +5V from your power supply on the connectors going into the Naomi. The NetDIMM puts additional load on these rails. Make sure your power supply is rated for a minimum of 8A on each rail. It sounds like the NetDIMM might not be getting enough power.

You may also have a issue with the buffer chip on the NetDIMM which is a common failure point.
my power supply setup is a little bizarre. I use this pc power supply with an adapter that coverts to the proper voltage. I've used a multimeter on it and it comes back with the right levels. however inside the cab itself is a happ power supply. i plug the naomi power supply into the outlet on the side of the happ power supply for ac power. idk if this is what it affecting it. however I do notice when ever i take out the mother board to work on it outside of the cab it starts working better. would this be something I could fix with the turning the nob underneath the outlet?
 

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i probably wouldn't daisy chain the two power supplies - will make troubleshooting a lot more difficult. That plug SHOULD just be hard wired to the AC power coming into the HAPP, but you never know. That HAPP might be a bit wonky, and the AC might not be steady which in turn would make the 5v, 3.3v and 12v rails not steady going into your naomi.

I would try just running your newer ATX power supply in the cabinet?
 
i probably wouldn't daisy chain the two power supplies - will make troubleshooting a lot more difficult. That plug SHOULD just be hard wired to the AC power coming into the HAPP, but you never know. That HAPP might be a bit wonky, and the AC might not be steady which in turn would make the 5v, 3.3v and 12v rails not steady going into your naomi.

I would try just running your newer ATX power supply in the cabinet?
the issue is i'm kinda new to working on arcade hardware. all the wiring inside cab besides the naomi itself (jamma harness, marquee light, speakers, coin/ service buttons, montor and isolation transformer) is going through the happ power supply. i wouldn't even know where to begin with cutting and rewiring all the wires to the atx supply.
 
my power supply setup is a little bizarre. I use this pc power supply with an adapter that coverts to the proper voltage.
All that adapter is doing is basically just rerouting pins to the right places to have the power go to the right places. It's not technically needed but nothing should be hurting it. Since there are no passive components (capacitors, diodes, resistors, etc) on that PCB, it's just switching which wires go where to make the pinouts match up. Technically it's not needed as it looks like you already have a ATX 20 pin to JST VH for your Naomi, which should be fine (albeit it'll leave the supplemental 4 pins for ATX 24 pin, but that shouldn't affect anything).

I've used a multimeter on it and it comes back with the right levels. however inside the cab itself is a happ power supply. i plug the naomi power supply into the outlet on the side of the happ power supply for ac power. idk if this is what it affecting it.

The Happ Power Pro AC outlet is joined internally to the C13 that plugs into it to give it power, it's effectively like having the power supply plugged directly into the wall. This *theoretically* should not affect things.

however I do notice when ever i take out the mother board to work on it outside of the cab it starts working better. would this be something I could fix with the turning the nob underneath the outlet?

The knob on the Happ power supply adjusts the +5V rail on the *Happ power supply only*; it will not change your ATX power supply's voltages. The two are effectively isolated from each other.
the issue is i'm kinda new to working on arcade hardware. all the wiring inside cab besides the naomi itself (jamma harness, marquee light, speakers, coin/ service buttons, montor and isolation transformer) is going through the happ power supply. i wouldn't even know where to begin with cutting and rewiring all the wires to the atx supply.

It is interesting you mention that the Naomi seems to work better when outside of the cab. Do you have anything plugged into the JAMMA harness in the cab? From all the things you listed, none of those are getting power from the DC side of the Happ; they all are daisy chained from the AC input on the Happ to directly power other things (Your marquee light, isolation transformer, and monitor all are powered directly from AC; you can typically tell this because the wires will be thicker, and they have three wires colored black, white, and green).
 
It is interesting you mention that the Naomi seems to work better when outside of the cab. Do you have anything plugged into the JAMMA harness in the cab? From all the things you listed, none of those are getting power from the DC side of the Happ; they all are daisy chained from the AC input on the Happ to directly power other things (Your marquee light, isolation transformer, and monitor all are powered directly from AC; you can typically tell this because the wires will be thicker, and they have three wires colored black, white, and green).
The harness is plugged into a capcom i/o. also when i say the naomi works better i just mean connecting to the netbooter. i dont bring the i/o board out when i try to fix the netdimm. Im going to try and find some brushes and isopropyl alcohol today to see if that does anything. is there any glaring thing that usually happens with that buffer chip if its failing or is there certain pins to test to see if its getting the right voltage?
 
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