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Lifted Trace Help

The Spaniard

The Spaniard

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So I'm really, really depressed right now and looking for some good news to get my multi fixed.

Was trying to add the 4 wires to my multi for the key writing when I lifted a trace on one of the pads by accident.

Really fell like a turd right now. ;(

Hopefully looking for someone local that can repair this for me.

8bonXnXh.jpg

bxhCBhFh.jpg
 
I just sent him his cable so he could add the wires with the connector. Looks like you've used way too much heat, easy mistake to make. Your yellow wire looks really nasty as well, lucky you didn't lose the pad there.

If @Mitsurugi-w can send me the section of schematics showing me where that wire needs to go, I might be able to install some kynar and fix it using the header it's connected to I think, but it depends on where the wire goes since the trace has been pulled up at both ends of the pad, so the whole line is going to have to be replaced. If it goes to a pad underneath the FPGA we're in trouble, if it's a via or one of the pins it'll be difficult but achievable.
 
I don't have the schematics but I've had to do this repair for someone already. The pads connect directly to the pins on the ARM so a wire patch will not be hard. You might even be able to just use on the the header holes above for the pad depending on the pad lifted.

Here is a picture of the repair:

20qnqjn.jpg


The wire just goes through the hole so I could solder it to the bottom of the wire for the connector. Instead of soldering to the ARM pin I used the side of the SMD resistor there.

EDIT: It looks like he lifted a different pad. Let me see if I can see where it goes.
 
@Darksoft Can you show this section of the schematics? This trace goes directly under the ARM.

You might get lucky and be able to connect some kynar to the pulled up trace and then seal it back down with some nail polish. If there is no better option when we look at the schematics.
 
Mitsurugi-w said:
@Darksoft Can you show this section of the schematics? This trace goes directly under the ARM.

You might get lucky and be able to connect some kynar to the pulled up trace and then seal it back down with some nail polish. If there is no better option when we look at the schematics.
Click to expand...
Looking in the photo he's pulled up the trace right to the edge of the ARM as well as most of the other side to the through hole on the edge of the board.

I personally would be much more comfortable running a section of kynar wire and replacing the whole trace, especially with the other traces in the section being so close by. Let me know what you think.

I guess it depends where that trace goes.

Thanks for the kind words @djsheep - I was very happy with how yours turned out :)
 
If I had known how delicate this area was I would have just sent it straight to xodara to do the mod.

I feel like a barely applied any heat on the pad when adding the solder.
 
The Spaniard said:
If I had known how delicate this area was I would have just sent it straight to xodara to do the mod.

I feel like a barely applied any heat on the pad when adding the solder.
Click to expand...
It's all good. I tried to do the "simplest" thing a while ago, and just remove a battery from a PGM board, burnt the shit outta it. It's all a learning experience. I really suck at soldering and am scared to do damage now.
 
The Spaniard said:
Its just a Hakko red, not temp setting on it.
Click to expand...
You really need to know your temperature when working on SMD stuff. The pads lift off easily. It's cheap to get a temperature controlled iron and it makes life much easier. I've made similar mistakes in the past, it happens, all you can do now is learn from it :)

It's also a case of not actually putting the soldering iron onto the pad, but rather tinning the wire and using the iron to melt the solder on the wire onto the pad.

Another important thing is good quality solder, cheap shit solder has no flux in it so you need to add it, cheap solder also typically requires more heat and risks damage.

PascalP said:
good point is to add some solder to the tip of the iron before doing anything else
Click to expand...
^ THIS

Tin the tip of your soldering iron, otherwise it just gets covered in crap, it doesn't get hot enough to melt the solder and the solder can't stick to it anyway because it's covered in crap.
 
I use fluxed solder but I still apply liquid 'no clean' flux to everything. Makes everything floooow nicely :D

Something like:

  • Clean PCB, apply flux to pad, tin soldering iron, tin pad.
  • Clean Iron
  • Strip wire, apply flux to wire, tin soldering iron, tin wire
  • Clean iron
  • Apply flux to tinned pad and to tinned pad. Touch wire to pad. Tin soldering iron. Bring soldering iron to the two tinned items and solder together.
For something like soldering wires to the multi pads you should only need to apply heat to the two for a fraction of a second.
 
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I use the no clean flux pen a lot more than I used to - it's essential for anything SMD and definitely makes for a cleaner install to pads like on the multi kit.

I tend not to use it on through hole as the flux in the solder is enough.
 
I will try to keep that in mind next time, but I did seem to see that my solder on the tip of the iron when tinned for a few moments would get "burnt" looking.

I am using a leaded rosin core solder that seems like a good brand. (forgot the name atm)

Are we any closer to finding a repair option for the kit at the moment? Seems mitsurugi suggest one method while xodara prefers another.
Me? I just want it fixed :)
 
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