Recent content by Magic Trashman

Those were Neo Geo Mini pads I converted with a custom mechanism. Unfortunately I can't get those controllers in bulk anymore, but for posterity I have the how-to guide hosted on imgur: https://imgur.com/a/neo-geo-mini-controller-to-aes-mvs-thumbstick-mod-ilmSDPK The last of 'em that I had I...

I could never find a guide for the top plate. I grabbed the MV2F base plate guide from Jamma Nation X, but it doesn't match up with my MV2FS so I couldn't use it. Wound up custom marking mounts locations with a pencil while laying the board down on a sheet of MDF.

Oh I don't have to press any buttons, my 2-slot automatically boots with the Darksoft alone, I just asked to make sure I wasn't damaging anything.

Sorry for asking about this if it's been explained already in this thread, but I noticed in the v2.3 guide there is a link to a youtube video that demonstrates how a multi-slot board should have all of the slots populated along with the Darksoft cart, did I understand that right? If so why is...

Pretty sure AES and MVS use different cartridge connector slots.

I've reached out to Mr. Garfield on Atari Age on your behalf.

It's the 100 uf/68 ohm set laid out in the encoder diagram Bodgit posted: C36, C37, C38, C39, C40, R65, R64, R63, R62, R61 Note that this circuit is probably from the earliest AES model. It would be best to compare the values in your other 3-6 board; If that one works on your lone display and...

A hail-mary test would be to check it on a different display if you haven't yet. Sometimes the AES will have capacitors & resistors on the output lines leading to the video cable connector that are out of spec for NTSC. I ran into some televisions that would not display properly until I swapped...

Would be better to open the AES-clone housing to get a comprehensive picture of the PCB inside. Probably need to populate any/all NEO-BUF locations with the replacements.

Furrtek makes and sells a NEO-BUF replacement: https://www.tindie.com/products/furrtek/neo-buf-replacement/ It's cheap but the design files even seem to be open source / free to download to make your own.

I'll take one.

Probably likely the vendor will ask that you send the failed pieces back as an intentional discouragement. Considering the unevenness of sending something from the US (or elsewhere in the west) to China, not worth the bother of trying to get a refund for a single chip.

What would you look out for with respect to identifying that these were legitimate versus being fakes? If they pass capacity testing it feels like the most likely misfortune would be cleaned up pulls versus new stock, at least in such case they'd be functional.

If there's any wiggleroom for me to get in for enough chips and daughterboard to do a cart for myself, I'd like to squeeze in, but understand if I'm too late.