Nice work, looks great! I agree it's one of Sega's best looking driver cabs. The pink fluorescent lighting up that marquee is a sight to see.. can imagine it wasn't cheap but well worth it.
We had UK and Japanese versions over here in England and I can confirm the Japanese cabs were definitely...
Superb cabs these when they're fully working - I restored a Japanese twin a few years ago. The sound thumps out of them if you can get fully working 4 channel amps and speakers. The marquee is the icing on the cake and the pop card is the cherry.. if you can find one!
I was going to say that...
I've restored a few of these over the years, but alll my resto threads were on a forum that is now in internet heaven.
The schematic in the manual is useful and pretty accurate if you have a UK built cab.
Which games have you tried? Standard original Chihiro linked OR2 cabs through crossover cable do tend to get out of sync sometimes - you probably already know this but worth bearing in mind if you are only trying Chihiro games.
Triforce games can be played in an iD3 cab, just drop in the Triforce board and some method of loading the game software. The basic controls like gas/brake/steering should all work, but you'll get no FFB. Also I think for Mario Kart you will need to remap some of the digital controls such as...
The Daytona 2 would be the easiest to convert to SR2 as it has the DSB2/loom and the 4 way shifter (although you'd still need a dedicated SR2 DSB2 board or change the ROMs inside the DSB2 cage to get the required music).
Bear in mind though you might want to check out the cabs in person (or get...
Inconsistent booting is usually an issue with the PSU in my experience too.
Those old Model 3 power supplies are known for failing like this, mine used to be worse if it was a bit cold.
You can fit one of the newer Sun power supplies (from more modern JVS drivers, Naomi cabs etc.).. there is...
Bummer, they are big items to ship and need to be packed well to avoid breakages, but $200 seems a crazy amount within the US!
I have one spare, but I'm in the UK and shipping/taxes would be even more from here! Hope you find an alternative option soon.
You may have already seen this, but it looks in decent shape aside from the sticker..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/374910197352?itmmeta=01JFQ7214T8KA9EYM9S86KF7CE&hash=item574a639e68:g:kr4AAOSwb2xk8MQp
If there's no light on the power supply then it's either faulty, or there is a problem with the 100VAC supply to it. Check connectors.
There is 100VAC in the cab as the fans and monitor will run off that. The drive boards should have lights on too.
Old Model 3 power supplies can be dodgy but...
It's not as difficult as it might look. Open up the metal cage and locate the communication board on the top part of the stack.. the long thin one that's not in the photo linked to above (because that stack doesn't have one).
In the photo you'll see the security board.. the small square one...
Nice cab, I've never played one of these later versions though. Shame the cushions are missing on yours.
The cushions I have here are pretty good quality, thicker than the regular Model 3 style cushions so should be more comfy to sit on.
I have two sets only and was hoping to keep at least...
They do look pretty good, but I don't have a cab near me to compare quality. The nearest sited cabs are a long way from my house :(
They may need a trim and will need some adhesive, but you're welcome to try them if you like.
What cab/cabs do you have and do you have any cushions on it/them now?