Recent content by shadowkn55

You don't actually have to replace the cap unless you really want to. It's a bypass cap targeted towards the onboard bios which is no longer present.

0.1uf 0603 capacitor

The jumpers are set correctly. Aside from popping out the eproms to verify, I would start with cleaning the edge connectors and testing continuity for M1. You should at least get scratchy sound if M1 is functional but V1 and V2 are not.

What jumpers are set on each board?

A 0603 0.1uf cap will work fine.

Real Bout is definitely a lot more fun than FF3.

It's possible that was done to Fatal Fury 3. The first Real Bout contains a significant number of Fatal Fury 3 mask roms.

I can't see anything that is glaringly wrong. The worst case scenario is that you'll need to transplant the roms onto another CHA board.

Given that most authentic puzzle bobbles used to be a Power Spikes II cart, I wouldn't be surprised if they reused the shell. I have also seen English labels covering up an original Japanese label and vice versa.

Can you post a pic of the CHA board?

I liked him better when he was 300Nguyens.

Replace the sram at locations B4 and B5.

This is what I use. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/IS62C256AL-45ULI-TR/706-1310-1-ND/4733140/?itemSeq=333404651

I'd probably dispense with the RAM they send you and buy some from digi-key. Used/fake ICs is a problem in China. I got burned twice by attractive pricing from China and said never again. Your board was "refurbished" with low voltage ram. I wouldn't hold my breath for new and/or correct spec ram.

Have you tried running a single cartridge in different slots? This could help narrow things down a bit.