Recent content by Thomas

Attach it to a nearby screw. It's ground for the monitor, not earth ground. The monitor and monitor frame aren't connected to the cabinet's earth ground.

Ah, I see. Having that mold looks like it makes things easier. Still a tricky job that I wouldn't want to try again. After all that work of making a mold and rebuilding the cones, you definitely need to keep the stock speakers.

Can’t tell from a YouTube video how good it sounds. Probably fine for arcade games. Especially older ones that don’t sound great with any speaker. I’m assuming “restore” means you repaired the disintegrated cone on the woofer. The hard part with that, I learned, is attaching the cone to the...

By "up and running" do you mean you changed the sound IC? And it's still noisy? No music during the intro. I think music was added in the Dreamcast port, however.

Edited my last post to delete the lower impedance comment. That's not quite right. Different speakers need different amounts of power to drive them. The sensitivity rating is more important than the impedance. You should stick with the original speakers unless they sound really bad or have...

My OEM speakers were completely ruined so I never had a chance to hear how they sound. My guess is that they sound fine. That's assuming the refurbishment you did brought them back to their original condition. If it sounds bad, try different speakers. But not the speakers I'm using. Find...

Do a search for cleaning JAMMA contacts. You'll find different methods and opinions and you'll have to pick one. But if you are getting 5V with the 5V potentiometer turned all the way down with the CPS2 connected then the contacts are probably all fine. P.S. that 3.3V is for JVS and you can...

Correct, I do not recommend it.

Do you mean maxed out the 5v and reduced 3.3v? Those readings might be low if the 5v is at max. Between the PSU connector, the JAMMA connector, your meter, and the game board JAMMA connection there are plenty of places to lose voltage due to dirty or oxidized contacts. It's a good idea to...

Those components were chosen specifically for the amplifier, woofer, and tweeter combination that I am using and if any of those three components change, you need to change the components too. So the answer is no, you don't need them. But if you connect the same amplifier that I'm using...

By life expectancy I mean how long they will last installed in a CPS2 game. The battery manufacturer can only provide an estimate of how many years the battery will hold a charge before being installed in something.

No sub for the Blast. The ported speaker enclosures provide enough low end. My Blast City sounds better than my Astro City, even without a subwoofer.

Are you sure those batteries have never been changed? Batteries can have a long shelf life and the date stamp is only the date of manufacture. Those 1996 batteries could have been installed in 2006. I recently pulled 2 batteries out of CPS2 games, one dated '94 and the other '97. Both...

Sure, list is below. If you haven't already tried some of the replacement speakers recommended in the Blast City speaker thread, I suggest doing that before doing what I did. I think this is nearly everything: WONDOM AA-AB32189 2x100W TDA7498 Class-D Amplifier Board DC 36V 5A 5000mA 180W...

It's all in the thread. Go back a page or two and you'll find all the details. I think you asked about paint in one of my other threads a year or two ago? The process for the Net City was the same.